RaceBro: Haero Bro, 21S4P, 6395 175KV, BN310, BN gears, 9x3.5s, D100S

Looks like they could use a stiffener at the join location of the ratchet and the plate.

@MBS should sponsor you to to some product development… if it survives you, the rest of us mortals are fine.

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Hey Guys, sorry for the delayed response. As you know, we’re always working to improve our products so really appreciate you tagging us to let us know what’s happening on the ground in this electric space where our products are being pushed to new limits.

Similar to how we improved our Matrix trucks in previous years to address the needs of you hard core electric guys we’ll look to see what improvements we can make for the bindings. We have some stuff coming out this year which relates to this, if not fully, then at least a little. More on that later.

If everyone agrees @Dinnye is the best one in your community to push our products to their limits, let’s discuss the potential to build a testing relationship @Dinnye. If there are other names to short list (or just add to the list of testers) let me know. Having brave and robust riders that love testing limits is essential for us to keep moving forward, especially in the electric area of the sport where we have fewer testing relationships in place than we do in the traditional mountainboard space.

I don’t want to derail this thread, but maybe people can tag a few names they think would test our products the hardest AND provide the best feedback. If it’s better to move that to a separate thread let me know…

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i volunteer as tribute…
just happened 10 minutes ago. still gotta long ride back home :confused:


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I noticed some Esk8 guys mount their bindings like this (toe side post on heel side of deck and vice versa). It’s the opposite of how they’re intended to work. In other words, in that photo it looks like a right foot binding is being used for the left foot. Is that correct? Is that intentional, or just due to poor instructions from our side? Just looking to understand this better because I’ve seen it before from other esk8ers.

@Dinnye bindings look normal (mounted on haero deck) so not suggesting that’s the cause of his problems, but wondering if this might be a contributing factor in some other cases mentioned.

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this was the case for me. only noticed that it was backwards when i visited the mboards shop.

this is definitely possible, i might just have to drill more holes in my deck to fit the other one on properly. guess i’ll figure that out later

@poastoast and @zero_ads both rock MBS f5 bindings, and have broken several sets pushing their limits. I nominate them if you are looking for additional testers.

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Thanks Man. I actually just started a new thread relating specifically to testers. Once it’s approved by moderator would you mind nominating over there. Just wanted to stop the derail it gets too late (Sorry @Dinnye)
Joel

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That’s great. Really helps to know that. We’ll improve that for sure. Thanks so much for the feedback.

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did i hear

new biiiiiiinnnnddddiiiinnnggggssss? :grin:

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I’ll send you a PM later! I really appreciate that you guys stand behind your products and want to improve them, and I am happy to help!

No worries! @jamie could you approve that thread?

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+1 in the broken binding camp. I’ve also seen it happen with the crew in San Diego multiple times

As for the binding direction, there could definitely be a pamphlet or clear image online denoting what their intended direction for mounting is :slight_smile:
Excited to see what you have in the works!

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Outstanding vendor engagement. This is sick.

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Man I must be lucky but definitely concerning as I’ve been rocking the same set of bindings from the start and hit 40+mph erryday and do a substantial bit of offroading with a big ass battery :grimacing::grimacing::grimacing:

@MBS you never switched materials or suppliers that you’re aware of on the F5s? I sincerely feel like the breakages have been happening more often in the last year. May be worth looking at from a qc standpoint. Iirc they are injection molded. I would be happy to take a look at the breakages and see I’d there are any voids or signs of a bad shot. If you can discuss material here, in the other thread, or privately, I am a quality manager at an injection facility. But more importantly, I’m a big fan of your gear haha

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I’ve finally started designing the slide glove / trigger remote integration.

The electronics box fits the GT2E/GT2B electronics and a 21700 with a usb charger circuit (tp4056). It’s bulkier than I would like, and I am sure I can get it quite a lot smaller but that’s low priority at the moment. It works and doesn’t get in the way. I’ll polish up that part after I manage to actually ride with the mod.

The knuckle duster part is on V2 already, it kinda works. Well it does work pretty nicely but the trigger is in the wrong place. And the trigger doesn’t fit perfectly into the mount just yet. It will take a few more tries I think, but once I get the position right and polish up the design a bit it’s gonna work pretty well!

I also need to make the trigger mount modular so I don’t have to reprint the knuckle for every iteration… It’s a lot of filament and allows for a better printing position.

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Well done!
I guess it won’t survive a crash or fall :thinking:

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Well, it shouldn’t hit the ground if I can put my hand down controllably. It should give me the ability to use slide pucks while using the throttle. Although the slide pucks will need a fairly tall riser.

In an uncontrolled fall the 3D prints will probably break, the throttle potentiometer maybe also, the rest of the electronics survive though. But I can get potentiometer replacements for like 6$ each including the trigger assembly so I will order 2-3 just in case, so if I break it it’s not a big deal

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Now it finally fits my finger comfortably at V6!!! I can’t wait to finish the assembly and take it for a ride tomorrow.

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It’s working!!! I can’t wait to go for a ride with it later today.

The glove is a little heavier than I thought it would be however. I would probably need a new top box iteration to fix that.

For that I would probably skip the USB charging as I suspect one charge would last me multiple months… And also stack the radio module below the main PCB. I am nearly out of filament though so it probably will stay like this for a while.

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You’re officially a cyborg now!

love it. :slight_smile:

i got this far… :D.

more of a hands down in disaster puck, than a use remote and puck down puck.

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