the ender 3 should be much less on aliexpress
i have seen it shipped to uk for like 150$ before
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Could you check? I would really be happy if I accidentally just overlooked something.
Seems, things start to raise in price heavily… Until now they seemed to have leftovers but now the pandemy seems to punch in as you could see with flipskys vesc too
From China its 230 and Europe would be 165
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yeah maybe wait till after the pandemic before buying
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We already had the conversation ^^
It depends on if you like the upgrade you get with the pro version. In June creality will release a Ender 3 v2 with silent board, different LCD, bottom mounted PSU, integrated drawer for stuff, Glas bed out of the box etc. The v2 will be 100-150€ more than the ender 3/provi think.
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There is a stepper controller board upgrade, some call it v1.5 that people say, makes the ender 3 almost unaudible. I’ll wait for the ender 3 v2 and prices to drop I think 
EDIT
WAIT…
If it is announced to release in June, is this fake?
[238,98€]Creality 3D® Ender-3 V2 Upgraded DIY 3D Printer Kit 220x220x250mm Printing Size Ultra-silent TMC2208/Silent Mainboard/Carborundum Glass Platform Support Resume Print 3D Printer & Supplies from Electronics on banggood.com
https://banggood.app.link/LMC5MAG7m6
Thats the v2.
“Processing time : expected to ship after May 30”
So after they announced it i assume
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For that price I’ll get it straight I think
Thats the preorder price, so a few bucks cheaper than regular
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Ok thank you.
i setup hfi on my board and it seems acceleration is much worse then it was with sensors?
is there a way to change some settings with hfi to make it work better
Yeah I know but not sure how exactly to do them
Plenty of tutorials out there on Yt explaining for 30 min straight
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I know and I followed one word for word and it works just lacks the startup torque I used to get with sensors
How do you know your NRF24L01 is just not working / defective or if you’re wiring is just bs?
(For the Firefly remote)
Haha. Shit was hilarious man. How disappointed he was. Specially next when he got to see the animaniacs from the Bay Area squaring up with moe stooge boards
His reaction was priceless 
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I want to order a tool from AliExpress for unisolating / stripping my 30 Awg wires.
Can someone link me one?
I am confused by all the tools with crimping and stuff
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Working on installing but it’s printed now
Will post to pics only when I have it swapped onto the deck.
Edit updated: 🖼️ Pictures and nothing else!
Not sure how effective this will be but will post about it negative or positive next time it’s warm enough out to be a fair comparison.
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For regular wire stripping think this kind of basic stripper is ideal:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D25N45F/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_1QdUEbMBPQPF0
If trying to get enamel coating off motor wires I think razor+time or acid or the melting aspirin (toxic) methods to get it off unfortunately. I prefer silicone covered wire whenever buying or adding my own easy to strip the shielding with a fingernail but somewhat rubbery/self healing so doesn’t just tear off like a sheet of paper (also high melting temp so when soldering doesn’t tend to get all melted and pollute the solder joint and air around me).
Regarding the nrf module need to be sure the pipe and channel match between the two modules otherwise not really sure. You can enable debug output in the modules to see if it helps tell you anything about the connection state but generally things match and it connects and works fine or they don’t. Would suggest checking out the rf-nano module too is Arduino-nano+nrf in one so don’t have to mess with wiring between the two and using one on my longboard for at least like 6 months without major issue (recently one momentary disconnect while crossing an intersection that was frightening but luckily 1S timeout of lost signal kicked in and it went idle before I hit the other side of the street/sidewalk).
Also good to just buy like 5 or 10 of the cheap modules so can swap them if something seems to not be working. If using standalone nrf make sure they are getting 3.3V power not 5V pretty sure I fried a few that way.
Oh right also make sure the power output and data rates are the same but think I just used defaults on those in my own code… Can try my code if you want as well it’s fairly minimalist so I don’t think to hard to use to debug buy can ask questions I can answer then 
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