Need feedback BMS diagram

Thank you very much. Your diagram much clearer. Thank you all!

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Yes it is, good luck with the build! :call_me_hand:

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can someone help explain this diagram for me? Sorry, I’ve been trying to decipher it using it to model my first battery build and I’m a little confused about some things. For example, why is the fuse connecting to the positive lead on the battery broken at that spot that reads (CH+) and (CH-)? Is the CH- on the PCB board a negative charge and then the fuse is soldered inbetween a positive and a negatively charged lead? Is that correct? (I didn’t think you wanted to connect a positive and a negative lead).

Those gaps are where your charge port will go (often a 2.1mm barrel jack or xt60). The other gaps are where the motor/esc (usually an xt60 or xt90) and the lights go, respectively.

the fuse in this diagram is in series between the neg(-) of the barrel jack and the battery b(-)

does that help?

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@iamasalmon yes that is super helpful! I’m so close, here’s a photo I’m just not sure what to do to finish the charge port and do a loopkey, and how to finish wiring the BMS.

I have male plug for the JST coming in the mail. Can anyone just draw on this image in red and black how I need to wire to finish this up? I would be forever greatful :pray: :pray:

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Assuming “bypass” wiring configuration:

Connect A to C with 22AWG or 20AWG
Verify the the balance connector is correct:

  • verify B0 on correct side
  • verify B10 on correct side
  • absolutely DO NOT accidentally short anything out
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B0 is exactly 0.00V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B1 is around 3.76V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B2 is around 7.52V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B3 is around 11.27V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B4 is around 15.03V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B5 is around 18.79V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B6 is around 22.55V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B7 is around 26.31V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B8 is around 30.07V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B9 is around 33.83V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B10 is around 37.58V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B11 is around 41.34V
  • Verify with multimeter that A to B12 is around 45.1V
  • then plug it in

Connect A to ESC negative as 12AWG or 10AWG
Connect B to loopkey_positive as 12AWG or 10AWG
Connect loopkey_negative to ESC positive with 12AWG or 10AWG
Get rid of 2 pin JST, can only cause problems. Only snip one wire at a time
Connect (solder) charge port positive to B/loopkey_positive with 22AWG or 20AWG
Connect (solder) charge port negative to fuse with 22AWG or 20AWG

If you need a “lights” or accessories circuit: (anything being powered other than an ESC)

Connect D with 22AWG or 20AWG to lights_negative
Connect loopkey_negative/ESC_positive with 22AWG or 20AWG to lights_positive

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Awww @b264 thank you so much you’re an absolute G!! This is wonderfully described and I’m super grateful you took the time for me man!

In TRUE @b264 form :pray: :call_me_hand: :call_me_hand:

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@b264 what do I solder D to if I’m not using lights or anything?

is that a PLASTIC charge port?

shame…shame on you (at least it’s fused) :crazy_face: :crazy_face:

If you’re not running any aux. power, heat shrink over the end, or desolder it… it doesn’t go anywhere on a BMS bypassed system except aux. power

EDIT:

I have a couple of other comments… non-catastrophic… so I’ll see if you can figger 'em out…

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Alright kookster, I’m trusting your insights, and thanks!

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are there non-plastic charge ports?

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yup…
10amp ones are difficult to find…

you can find 4-5amp ones all over amazon…

just get one that matches your charger jack and at least equal in amperage rating of your charger…

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I just ditched the barrel jack and am using an XT-60 now instead. Which is also plastic :sweat_smile:

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you’re a k00k!

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Nothing at all. Maybe a power indicator light, or nothing.

That’s the “bypass” part of “bypass configuration”

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Oh yes. Yes, there are.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRT5C2Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use that for 60V 5A max. Disregard the rating of “30V 5A” :rofl:

It may even work for 100V 5A, I just haven’t tested it.

The “5A” part is accurate though

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dank

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As long as your charge port is fused, you should be okay.

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heheheheeheeheehhe

and @whaddys has no idea what were scheming up in the background B!

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whatever it is I’m ok with it. This year has been completely fucked already, I invite more fuckery shinanigans

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