Assuming “bypass” wiring configuration:
Connect A to C with 22AWG or 20AWG
Verify the the balance connector is correct:
- verify B0 on correct side
- verify B10 on correct side
- absolutely DO NOT accidentally short anything out
- Verify with multimeter that A to B0 is exactly 0.00V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B1 is around 3.76V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B2 is around 7.52V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B3 is around 11.27V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B4 is around 15.03V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B5 is around 18.79V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B6 is around 22.55V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B7 is around 26.31V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B8 is around 30.07V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B9 is around 33.83V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B10 is around 37.58V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B11 is around 41.34V
- Verify with multimeter that A to B12 is around 45.1V
- then plug it in
Connect A to ESC negative as 12AWG or 10AWG
Connect B to loopkey_positive as 12AWG or 10AWG
Connect loopkey_negative to ESC positive with 12AWG or 10AWG
Get rid of 2 pin JST, can only cause problems. Only snip one wire at a time
Connect (solder) charge port positive to B/loopkey_positive with 22AWG or 20AWG
Connect (solder) charge port negative to fuse with 22AWG or 20AWG
If you need a “lights” or accessories circuit: (anything being powered other than an ESC)
Connect D with 22AWG or 20AWG to lights_negative
Connect loopkey_negative/ESC_positive with 22AWG or 20AWG to lights_positive