I cannot stress enough how much you need to reverse this situation, UNLESS you will be making your own enclosure, and even then, you need concrete plans for that before deciding on electronics and other things. I strongly suggest to not leave enclosures until last, just thinking it will be okay.
This will break in 5 minutes and you’ll be worse off than if you listened to other folks who have already made these expensive mistakes. You want fiberglass. Maybe kydex, but probably fiberglass. Not 3DP.
These are the EXACT reasons we are trying to help you.
…because I am heavy as fuq boi! I want to make sure I am able to go up hill as where I live it has ALOT of underpasses. but a saving grace of the place (Milton Keynes if you want to know) has a system of paths designed for bike useand those e-scooters have taken off so well here because of them.
Fastest way to break an ESC is to just type in 120A battery current because you read on a forum that one person somewhere did it and it worked. (on a totally different setup, likely)
Depends if the person is trying to break parts, or trying to make something work reliably without wasting a ton of money and doing a bunch of repairs to a bespoke one-of-a-kind vehicle with a production run of quantity one. It really is all about what your goals are.
My fat ass (100kg) has gone up some monster hills on a single 6355 motor at like 25A battery current. This won’t be a problem.
You really underestimate what a board built for high power can do.
In this video I am pulling about 0.7G acceleration on 2WD (granted, a very strong one compared to an average board), geared to about 60mph / 95km/h
On smaller tires which dropped my top speed to a much more sensible 40mph / 65km/h I did 0.85G, or about 20% faster than this on the video, at 85% throttle. Only 85% throttle because any more and I was just spinning the race tires on the rear.
A well built 2WD can easily keep up with the acceleration of a top tier sportsbike or sports car. The only reason to go 4WD is if you want to have the grip for more braking power compared to what 2WD can handle.
And I appreciate that. This forum has been so much more help than reddit, where they all just insulted me for not knowing what i was doing. then I see their pictures of zelots and realise they don’t know jack themselves because they all bought prebuilt boards.
355lb is… 160kg or there about, a lot of that is a lazy gut. I ruck so I have thick legs and im 6’2" and about a 3rd as wide (seriously i get stuck in some doorways if i don’t go through at an angle)
the main thing i want is torque so I’ve been looking more at the lower kv motors but they come up with the higher on the pages i look at.
A high power 2WD setup will probably be okay for you. I would pay attention to trucks and whatnot, don’t use cast parts, only billet machined parts. Don’t use 8mm axles.
I would recommend maximizing (within practical limits) your gear ratio, definitely be looking in the 5+ to 1 reduction range and not huge wheels.
Low Kv motors can have their own share of problems, but are sometimes useful, but more advice could come from answering the goals questions above.
You need to start with a deck and enclosure though, and you will need a strong one of each. Deck flex will knock out a 3D printed enclosure in no time at all, you want fiberglass. You can’t really design anything until you get the deck and enclosure down.
i intend to use it to travel home from work i don’t have a drivers licence because what driving instructors say goes in one ear and out the other i hate to say it but I blame it on the asperger’s.
Other people have been in your exact situation, spent tons of money messing things up and redoing them several times over. You should absolutely listen to the sometimes-unintuitive advice we offer.
DIY vehicles break. ALL THE TIME. Your #1 design goal should be avoiding exactly that, and aside from a tiny chance that you’re in southern California and you can take off work anytime you want to, then your vehicle absolutely needs to be waterproof as well, which is a whole 'nother set of things. A DIY vehicle built with reliability as its number one goal can be extremely reliable and last a really long time. I highly advise listening to those who have made mistakes before you, and lean on their experience and use their financial losses for your gain.
Then, after you’re completely done and been using your vehicle for a year, come back here and help other people just starting.
Add your location to your profile, and answer the goals questions above. We don’t know if you’re in New York or Antarctica.
Still not sure whether you want fast&cheap, fast&good, or cheap&good.
It’s clear you want a tool and not a toy, so probably fast&good or cheap&good. How long do you have to get the vehicle built, and how big is the budget?
I know someone with a 3D printer so I should be able to get the right enclosure for the parts I end up picking.
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This will break in 5 minutes and you’ll be worse off than if you listened to other folks who have already made these expensive mistakes. You want fiberglass. Maybe kydex, but probably fiberglass. Not 3DP.
I’m working on my own enclosures at the moment.
3D printed for “precision” and will be adding a layer of fiberglass later because I know by it’s nature, FDM printing produces seams which where cracks usually start.
It’s a pain the ass.
Get a premade fiberglass enclosure if you don’t plan in investing to make more later on.
I haven’t had any cracks in my FDM printed vesc case with PETG
I run no cooling, 80% infill, with 3mm walls, and it comes out good, a little sanding and it looks great
Have yet to have any splitting or cracking with any of the pieces, I tested one of the tops I had a misprint on and it shattered after taking almost a full 90 degree bend
I think fiberglass is a good idea, I haven’t thought of that.
Keep in mind too I have it on a mtb, so on top. That is where my experience is.