Yeah I have a 0-24v 3a power supply I just set to 12.6v
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My dad owns an auto repair shop and he had it lying around, It is a beast for sure.
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For mine I actually use an RC lipo balance charger.
It has a lead acid mode that will charge this nicely.
Not the fastest way to top it off but these welds really don’t drain that much juice from the battery.
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The first of 4x 5s 12p batteries is assembled.
Just need 3 more of those done and to get them attached to each other.
And it still fits nicely in the bottom of my ONYX battery tray.
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Damn bro, this is epic.
How you gonna secure all that together firmly?
Once all 4 groups are done and attached I will hold that all together with several bands of the fiber tape I am using.
BMS will get strapped To the top face that is pointing towards the rear in the last picture. Then a layer or 2 of big heat shrink over it all.
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The ONYX has basically a seatbelt to hold in it’s battery. Hopefully I can still use that, or something like it.
If it were me, i’d be wrapping the shit out of each group with fibre tape, and then glueing and taping the individual groups together as well. Don’t want any of that shit moving around at all.
If you just butt all 4 groups together and tape around it, they will still be able to float around
Glueing the 4 rows of batteries together is a good idea, I will have to add that in.
Probably tape and glue the 2 center rows to each other. Then tape and glue each of the 2 outer rows on from there.
Only then finally spot weld the end plates connecting the rows.
Very low profile Velcro may be a good idea along with the heatshrink…
Also keep in mind any adhesive used can be fairly easily undone with some sort of fine string dipped in acetone used like a saw. That is if you weren’t wanting to use adhesive because you thought it would be too hard to take apart in the future for whatever reason.
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I have seen multiple batteries fail with plastic rings and fish paper rings on top and still the nickel shorted them out. 
It’s a super easy and very cheap precaution to take.
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That isn’t a bad idea, but I may not even have room for that.
By the time I add the BMS on top of the battery I am going to be ready close to the battery compartment lid.
Once I have all 4 assembled I can test and see exactly how much room I will have.
Then figure out what to do with the room available.
All 4 groups assembled and wrapped, after the last 3 looking so much better I decided to strip and rewrap #1.
The positive battery cables are also attached to that end.
Ended up using 3x 10awg wires running into a 6awg crimp butt splice for the main output wire.
I wish I could have used another but that is all that would fit in the splice.
And it looks like my rapid fire 70j welds are taking a toll on the Kweld fuse…
Next step is to get the BMS and make sure it can actually fit in like my measurements say it should.
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It turns out the BMS won’t be able to fit on the actual battery itself.
So I will have to remotely mount it elsewhere in the bike which will be annoying.
Might as well continue on, the finish line is coming into sight.
Though the BMS won’t be here for another week or two which will stop me from actually finishing.
But I might as well get the pack assembled and fully welded out!
Silicone between the groups to help hold it all together tighter.
I probably used twice that much in the end, just to be sure they have a good hold on each other.
The 2 inner groups were siliconed and banded together first.
The series plate was welded on and insulated with more fish paper.
The 2 outer groups were slapped onto their respective side with more glue and tape before welding.
That end then was fish papered and taped.
At this point it is just attach negative output and balance leads then some heatshrink to complete.
This is definitely a chonky boy of a battery.
It will be interesting to see how much the extra weight up high on the ONYX will effect the ride.
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what thickness of copper and nickel are you using?
.15mm for both the copper and nickel sheets.
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Dunno if I missed it, what bike is this for?
