check out higo
they were the supplier of plugs for boosted and many chinese boards use something very similar
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They r shit, and that specifc connector is made for connecting to pcb board, there isn’t a both cup version to start with.
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True. I’ll check em out. From what I’ve heard they aren’t rated for high(ish) amps which kind of blows
A tiny pcb could be created (with solder pads for the wires) to make those connectors easier to use, but it’s certainly not ideal.
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This kind of stuff is what I would use a 3d printer converted into an engraver for.
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I don’t know if there’s other reasons you’re calling them shit… but I do find their panel mounting flange to look quite flimsy. In my applications, however, I’d be trimming that off & solely using the connector anyways.
As for the fact they’re (obviously) designed for pcb mount w/no cup terminal - this is DIY forum lmao. Take a dremel & bisect it… boom, flat surface & no loss of current delivering capacity.
Or… better yet - cut slightly more insulation off your wire, poke a nice little hole into your wire w/something conical (like a wooden bbq skewer or something - then envelope the “pcb style” termination in that… if you want to be really fancy, take some very low gauge solid copper wire & give it a few wraps around the circumference of it all, then add some quality flux & solder away. Perfect mechanically sound connection 
There are some who would even go as far to claim that if you really know what you’re doing, you can simply barely tin both faces to be joined (for the wire, easy to do this by cutting a clean edge, tinning, & then removing insulation - keeps everything nice & straight/doesn’t fray), butt the tinned faces up against each other, & join them with perhaps the slightest bit of horizontal force applied to the wire into the direction of the connector terminal.
I personally think this is not the most mechanically sound connection, & prone to breakage. High quality adhesive lined heatshrink can somewhat negate that. But my pretentious presumptions aside, some have claimed (maybe even @b264 ?) that “butted” solder connections, when properly done, are perfectly mechanically sound. The absolute only demographic I would not recommend it to are people going 40mph+ up steep hills, e.g. really pushing amperage, & subsequently wiring harness heat, to the max. If that solder joint hits its phase change temp for any amount of time, that connection is completely compromised. I am a fan of mechanical retention in joints & butting things face to face just don’t have that. If it’s at the temp the solder would melt, your adhesive lined heatshrink will also be melty & not going to hold.
But, that’s just me. Also in the spirit of diy - if they are 3.5mm connectors, just push the stock pcb mount style ones out, & shove cup terminal 3.5mm connectors in. Maybe with a tiny bit of appropriate adhesive. Thickened epoxy, putty style jb weld, etc.
I think the connector, unless the plastic is exceptionally flimsy irl (I know I’m making big talk for somebody who hasn’t actually touched one), seems to be a solid foundation to work from.
As an aside - I routinely chop xt30 connectors for their bullet connectors as I haven’t found (well, haven’t looked to be fair) a better reliable source for that style/size, & I just recently realized I unknowingly ordered PCB mount (but straight, not bent) xt30 connectors - & they are actually about 2mm shorter than standard cup terminal xt30s overall… like, plastic housing included. For those who have any neurotic tendencies in wanting to save space in a build… if ya didn’t know, now ya know.
I actually came across a few unique connectors I’m going to post in the connector thread in the coming days… checking out a consolidated & updated amass catalog every now & then is a fun rabbit hole to go down. I’m still on the search for the perfect compact yet robust standalone sensor connector… Haggyboards is close to perfect if it were just a bit shorter overall.
Like, we got rubber gasket waterproof xt-60’s now. Fkn future man…
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256803525546462.html
Curious to otherwise hear why you think they’re shit though. Personally I think they look a bit flimsy, like a less dense plastic compared to standard amass connectors, & that they probably don’t have any good locking mechanism & would be prone to vibrating out. For panel mount that is obviously an issue, I just want a phase/sensor in one connector for external usage that is not panel mount. Heatshrink for waterproofing also doubles up as retention mechanism in that case.
I still think an mr60 connector w/two mr30 connectors sandwiched in epoxy board/otherwise glued together & then epoxied onto the top of an mr60 would be the best & most robust external 2 in 1 phase/sensor connector.
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I almost went the route of MR30’s for my sensor wires but I ended up going with CNLinko’s. Really wish I could design some way to get a panel mounted latching MR60 but I don’t think it’s anything I could print myself
Honestly, a strip of Velcro (as in adhesive Velcro somewhere on your panel mount & somewhere on your connector, & then bridging w/one non-adhesive strip once plugged in) or a singular zip tie around your connector that attaches to something on your enclosure/designed into the 3D printed board side casing is more than enough to keep things from rattling apart. The zip tie is slightly annoying & perhaps ugly if not well implemented, but if you ever have to remove it & don’t have a spare on hand, it’s highly unlikely that the bit of riding you’ll be doing until you get to replace it is going to be the one time things actually rattle loose… definitely happens over time & on rough terrain/using urethane.
I’ve had both panel mount & free floating mr60’s & xt60’s never come slightly loose after months riding rough terrain w/pneumatics. Cannot speak for thane, it is an anemic & sentimental form of transit in this day of esk8
True, either method wouldn’t be too bad. I haven’t had much experience with MR60’s for phase wires so I can’t speak to them rattling loose but this is on a street board with 8” tires so not vibrating like it has thanes on.
Pretty sure they are smaller. I can measure after work.
The consensus a while back is they would only be good for a light duty thane board.
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So I got these wrapped up and installed on my board. Install went pretty much as planned and I’m looking forward to seeing how they perform. The plug fit is quite snug so I can’t really see them coming unplugged while riding. I’ll monitor it and if need be, I can throw some electrical tape or heat shrink around the connection. The epoxy holding the wires into the connector is very strong and I can’t see them going anywhere. I put some heat shrink around them on the inside of the enclosure loosely, just to make sure nothing bumps into them. Happy with how they came out so far - will see how they hold up! Unfortunately it’s the beginning of winter here so I won’t be getting much riding time in 
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