ah ok, that is the kit I have on my bf20L to convert to cnc, but it’s no longer available. Anyhow we are talking about a CNC mill. All the others posted are CNC router. is different. That kit, plus electronics and the mill is about 5K
https://einfach-cnc.de/bf20-version-2/
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Yes im aware its a conventual mill, I found an optimum BF20 for around 1.5k. It would then need a conversion: electronics, steppers and adapter plates etc. However I guess im going off topic haha, thanks for the link appreciate it! 
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the bf20 is a chinese mill then rebranded from optimum, grizzly as g0704, PM25 ecc… at least 8 brands use it. They have small differences due to the brands requests. In EU also check HBM https://www.hbm-machines.com/producten/metaalbewerking/metaalfreesmachines/metaalfreesmachinesssub/hbm-bf-25-freesmachine-grote-tafel they often have good deal.
When you conver it to to CNC you will replace to ball bearing ecc so the differences are gone anyway because you only keep the frame. Anyhow on Alibaba you can find the same mill for around 800$ and already converted for 3K. They ship oversea in around a month for 100 Euro but then you have to go to grab it at the dock or organise the shipping.
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Just wanted to chime in here with my 2 cents after reading the whole thread. I personally don’t think the MPCNC is designed to be built more than 0.6m x 0.6m or 24" x 24" because of its frame design. You could put some supports underneath the longer axis at certain points but I’m not sure how effective that would be. This seems to be where the Lowrider2 comes in. It’s great for working in longer Y directions and shouldn’t have any trouble with wood. Personally I’m embarking on my first CNC project with either the MPCNC or Root3 CNC which is based off of square tubing instead of the circular and seems to have a more rigid frame. Although the documentation and kits that Ryan provides are unbeatable, and I think that’s one of the main selling points for the MPCNC or Lowrider2. If you do end up building an MPCNC so that you have better chances with metal, build it small and then create multiple “jobs” to feed longer cuts through.
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I’ve been talking to a guy on the V1 Facebook group and he has a cutting area very similar to mine. I’m using the center supports he used and will be getting a dial indicator and test putting some weight on random spots in the frame to see how much it goes down.
I have enough threaded rod from work to where I could make the entire length covered in center supports!
The dude I’ve been talking to is cutting guitar bodies out with his MPCNC and it’s been working pretty well for him so I’m just following in his footsteps.
I went with this one due to budget. I was able to get a lot of the metal for free, used parts from old 3D printers and other projects. I’ve spent around $200 for the entire thing so far and it’s almost done, don’t have to buy anything else (besides bits)
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Yeah I’d like the first one that I build to be easily upgradeable. Hence why I’m stuck between choosing Root3 or MPCNC. The tradeoff with MPCNC is a cheaper starting platform but less rigidity and harder to upgrade. Root3 has NEMA 23s, Ramps 1.4 board and independent stepper drivers in the case that only one breaks.
THis guy show the mpcnc with one of the spindle I meant, nema 23, double rails and other usefull upgrades.
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Good luck! See you after a ton of printing 
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I am also glad you made this thread 
lots of great info in here!
I ordered the full kit from v1 and printed all of my own parts for the lowrider 2, it’s all just been sitting in a box for the last few months . I just need the steel tubing and some cnc cut ply things for the side bits.
Cleared out my shed over the christmas break to make room for a deck press and the cnc… deck press is coming first, and then moving on to the cnc after that. I’m excited about building the press, not so much the CNC!
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How much was shipping with the kit? When I looked at it it was about 90 bucks. Too much for me. Self sourcing is the way to go IMO, only hard bit is firmware flashing. Let me know once you finish the CNC. Would love to check out the Lowrider. I’m planning to have my MPCNC done in 3-4 weeks.
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I can’t remember tbh. But I’m lazy like that. If there is the option for me to buy a full kit, I will nearly always buy it over sourcing seperate parts… the time it would take me to source all the different parts, I would rather just pay a premium to get a box with all the right bits in it.
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plus you gave support to the guy that actually made it possible 
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That was definitely a contributing factor 
I’m sending Ryan a donation once I finish the build no doubt. Makes a bit more sense for me. I’m on school holidays so I have all the time in the world to source parts individually. I also find it a bit more fun to source things myself as I learn more about the advantages and disadvantages of each component.
That’s one of the reasons I made this thread. I wanted to give Ryan from V1 engineering some extra exposure since he provided this awesome thing all open source!
Glad to see some more people are jumping into it and building theirs along with me.
And thanks to everyone who has contributed knowledge along the way!
I should have some time this weekend to work on the wiring. Still have to order different endstops for this thing though, the ones I have are way too small!
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Please send a link to the endstops that you order when you get a sec
Absolutely. I would also do the same. I was just additing an important point to consider when looking at the price difference of the kit. You also have donation included.
Anyhow if I was you and wants to outsource the parts. Then I would use different electronics. external drivers, classic control board, high toruqe nema 17… cost would be
3 drivers - 15 Euro each
3 nema 17 - 27 Euro all of them
board - 10 Euro
Then you can use mach3 (you need parallel port pc or smoothstepper 100Euro) or whatever software you want. Even with arduino I would still go with external drivers. More relialable, easier to cool down and if one brakes you swap the single one. PLus they usually allow more current and voltage, meaning power! a MPCNC at 36V will have way more holding torque than original. I do not know what they suggest, but most of the cheap driver can go up to 36, 42V
Oh…you need a parallel port for mach3?? You cant use it over usb? Since I’m using the rambo 1.4, I believe its output/input is USB
no mach3 needs parallel port (old bad boy) or use a converter called smothstepper. That what I use but is not super cheap. Mach4 uses usb
https://warp9td.com/
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