Okey ! 
If I want to check the maximum current discharge of my current ESC, can I just check the characteristics of the capacitor and just deduct it ?
Mine is 63 V, 470 microF
@rusins Do you know if it’s can be the reason? i’ve tested tu run my motor in the air and it lasts 1 hour and more. So it seems that the cells are well charged…
Battery voltage goes down (sags) under load, so they were probably just close to empty. You especially notice sag on small battery packs.
depends on how it was programmed; maybe you can find its model and search online. What capacitors it has doesn’t really determine that.
Ok so to start, yes MOST vescs don’t have an integrated switch and need either a loop key, discharge through bms with switch, or anti spark. Some of the newer ones are starting to have it such as the unity. The cheap escs often have them either as an led button or the push start option. A lot have both if you just unplug the led it will switch to push start mode.
I had similar cut out issues with the stock battery before I made my own. If your having cutouts when you brake, it’s because the battery is full and shuts down from the regen braking. If your having cutouts on a hill, it’s because the cells suck ass and sag like hell in no time. If it’s on normal grounds it may be an issue with the cheap stock battery. The nickel would often come loose from the cell and cause cutouts. The bms they have me had all the balance wires glued on (not welded) and they would come off all the time.
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Understood, very clear !
Well it was mostly on normal grounds, no under big load, when I was accelerating. So it must be an issue with the cheap stock battery…
I’m currently choosing the wires and nickel strips. Would need some confirmations 
On my current LouBoard, I have :
For wire : 16 AWG
=> Should I move to bigger wires as my cells can go up to 30 A? For 30 A, it seems to be 10 AWG; For 20 A, it seems to be 14 AWG, based on literature.
For balancing wire : 24 AWG
=> I can keep the same size I guess.
For connectors : XT 30 on charge side AND on BMS side.
=> On charge side, I can keep the same size.
=> On BMS side, if I go for bigger wires like 10 AWG or 14 AWG, will I need to use XT60 or XT90 connectors?
Thank you again for your answers !
Wires and their max ratings, as copied from that Chinese table @Bindings_McGee likes to share:
6AWG | 300A
8AWG | 190A
10AWG | 140A (XT-90 recommended)
12AWG | 88.4A (XT-60 recommended)
14AWG | 55.6A
16AWG | 35A
18AWG | 22A
20AWG | 13.87A
22AWG | 8.73A
24AWG | 5A
26AWG | 3.5A
28AWG | 1.25A
30AWG | 0.8A
Note that these ratings are for multi-strand copper, flexible, silicone insulated wiring. I.e. the Turnigy kind that everyone uses.
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Right don’t use a 10awg wire it’s way overkill. As you can see from the table above you would be fine with 16 awg for the battery. Use a xt30. On charge side. If you keep your current esc it’s probably also a xt30 for discharge. If your buying a new one double check but xt30 is best for your small space
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Nice, thank you @Chase and @rusins for all your help
I’ve passed my order for BMS, wires, connectors, cells…
I will come back here when work is done to show you the finished battery pack !
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Don’t mind the fancy re-wrapping of the cells but you can see the progression here that I used to fit that bms and the 30q cells or any 18650 of that size. Your battery comes built with an xt30 port at each end and then they used an Xt30 cable to connect it to the esc. That’s how you should do it for maximum space. I’d recommend measuring the nickel strip first, then solder on the needed wires in the space in between the cells on the nickel strip, then spot weld on to the cells.
Have you got photos of the final build? What ESC/motors/trucks did you go for?
u should cut into the deck and make it dropthrough, that thing is like 1 meter off the ground