So 290 is like water?
Can it still be used when disassembled or is it meant to be used to an already assembles bolt?
So 290 is used as a more ââpermanentââ solution than 243/2?
Can you give examples on where you would use different loctites on your board to help me understand better each of their application?
Sorry for the dumb questions! 
290 is very thin, yes. It can be used before assembly but it really shines for after-assembly locking.
290 is a little stronger than 242/3, under ideal conditions. Youâd have to check both datasheets for the exact strength characteristics of each compound on the specific materials youâre using them on - Thatâs another thing: the strength of the bond is very dependent on the materials. Depending on the compound, aluminum or bronze surfaces can give as much as a 75% reduction in strength vs. bare steel.
Basically 242/3 or 290 are removable and can be used interchangeably. If you have a mission-critical fastener that you want to absolutely NEVER come undone (Unles you want it to, @b264 you smartass) you can use a red (high strength) threadlocker like 262 or 271.
648 is not designed for threads at all, itâs designed for holding (for example) a shaft into a bore. Or a bearing into a housing. Same with 641, but itâs a lot less permanent.
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FTFY 
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680 will give you permanency but with the ability to remove should you need to. Epoxy in any form is more or less there forever so I would not recommend using it in any application that you may want to undo in the future.
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He said âpermanentâ LoL.
Used that word. Like âaffixed until the sun explodesâ
Like when a motor mount moved 17 times and itâs either âStay put, or get shitcannedâ
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The thing with 290 is itâs very difficult to get LESS than a drop from the container, and a drop is so ridiculously too much that most of it gets wasted. But I do like 290 and itâs water-thin. Like @MysticalDork said, you can apply it at assembly time and itâs very strong. But you can also apply it after assembly and it wicks in.
Thank you @MysticalDork @b264
And if you want something stronger than 243/2-290 but not permanent like 262-271,
something that can be removed with heat,
What does the job?
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Those are really your choices 
If you want more strength, then you end up with red. If you want less, you end up with blue or 290. 290 is probably about the strongest that I wouldnât consider âpermanentâ in that you generally donât need heat or a hammer to remove it.
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If you have a motor shaft that is completely covered in Loctite 290 with a pulley stuck on it, I have had to heat them up before they would come off, even with a pulley puller. Ironically, the temperature they start letting go at is right around 290 degrees F, I donât know if thatâs coincidence or not. Once you go above that, they will start to be able to be slid off.
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N donât forget to shake the container n clean surfaces n wait 24 hours.
Some u can heat to speed cure
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Youâll never figure it out! Lol Iâve spent hours and hours reviewing datasheets and charts. There are several generations of product, and families of products sold to military, industrial, consumer. Lots of very similar but not quite the same products. Plus, china clone threadlockers sometimes use similar formula names but with different properties. Itâs sheer madness!
I have on my bench:
243
648
222MS
294
249 (like plumberâs tape)
248 (like chapstick)
vibratite VC-3
hobbyking 242
hobbyking TL-262
hobbyking TL-609
hobbyking TL-271
and I feel like Iâm missing a bunch.
I think maybe a good basic set is 243 medium/blue, 263 strong/red, some kind of green wicking/high-temp, a low and high viscosity retaining compound. 243/263 are newer formulations of 242/262, with more oil resistance and nicer properties all around. 243,263 seem to be the standard blue,red recommended to consumers for almost all uses. The 249 is really nice for the road tool bagâno waiting for it to cure.
And wtf is this?
Another hole I dove into was shelf life. loctite does designate shelf life but I think for the sake of having specs for industrial/govât. Seems real shelf life is indefinite.
Yet another hole is how to clean the screw/hole for reapplication. Methods offered were chemical stripping, physical abrasion, burning it off. But the experienced guys mostly just apply fresh loctite, which seems to dissolve the old stuff.
Vibratite VC-3 is cool because itâs supposed to be adjustable and reusable for a few cycles. The permatex gel ones look neat to try.
Most of them, you can use a matching primer to speed the cure.
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Iâve been using the same bottle of 262 that i got from Enertion when i ordered the 6S complete build kit from them in late 2014. Iâm just now starting to run out of it, and itâs showing no signs of degrading.
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I think weâre safe buying shampoo bottle size loctite. 
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Its amazing, thanking you greatly
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madness. For example, this chart looks pretty good, but retaining compounds list:
232
609
620
641
660
680
Go to their website and it lists:
620
638
641
648
660
fwiw I think 648 is the best one for motor pulleysâŚ
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For future questions about this topic, please refer to here
Much better thread, well done @sleepless 
@xsynatic is it possible to close this? As to keep one thread on this subject. This was one of my stupid question threads instead of using the noob question thread at the time 
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Of course