What exact batteries are you using bro? and do you use an onboard BMS or BMS is external?
edit, duh I could just re-read the thread. I have an idea - I will try and design something for you this weekend. you want to keep all the elctronics as they are but just be able to change the batteries easily right?
The main first world problem is that I don’t really know the needed dimensions yet. The lipos won’t last long so I think next is 12s2p of 40T or 12s3p of VTC6, in best case 2 identical packs. Also I have to add heatsinks to the V4.12 and lay them beside and not one above the other. I had massive problems with thermal cut-offs.
So I don’t even know the size for electronics.
If I do it old-school it would be something like this:
Due to the concave I thought about a plate like this bolted to the deck
and then 2 separate enclosures, a smaller one for electronics on the right side (just as an example), bigger enclosure with battery on the left side. Could be velcro and straps.
But I’m sure there are better solutions like slots in the plate where you can slide in the top enclosures or some other future shit.
Also I have no idea where to drill holes for the inserts when I don’t know how I mount everything. That was originally the reason for using a plate, the holes for mounting to the deck would stay the same whereat all the rest can change.
For securing it, you could have each battery mounted in its own plate, and a board plate mounted using longboard bushings like Trampa does
For locking the battery plate to the board one you would use Dzus (the clips used to secure lots of race cars panels)
Watch your back Rich, I have all the parts coming today for an ULTRA LIGHTWEIGHT non-electric JUMPER!
Disc brakes and all 
Perhaps with 1/10th of the weight, I will finally be able to achieve 1/3rd of your height 
Let me know what battery for sure bro, I’ll draw you up my idea and see what you think. I’ll PM you this week
have you seen how Dylan Warren rides? I would think that these trucks would be exceptional for the use case!
This is the cut I chose for mine, nice, easy and clean.
Good idea, will take a closer look…
Have fun!
Do you plan to electrify it and lose the word “ultra”?
Yes and I remember when he snapped a truck 
This video made me want the deck, it doesn’t flex at all when landing 
Today I did some mock ups and measured different parts before I mount everything. On the left side MBS Rockstar II hub, on the right side Trampa Superstar.
The Superstar hub would need a 4mm spacer on the extension.
Here a comparison with mounted E-Toxx hub adapters
The superstar takes less space on the axle
despite the inner width is bigger (about 3mm)
Looks great! Also the new foot pedals…
I thought I have to cut even more to have enough clearance for the drive train.
Then I did some tests 
didn’t expect that.
This is the clearance when the distance between motor plate and tip of the axle is 68mm and the helical on the motor 28mm. There is about 5mm distance to the hanger on full tilt when it touches the motor plate. This could be enough in real life. If I cut just a liiiiitle bit at the edge I could touch the hanger.
It was the motor that got in the way for me.
Thank you very much you ruined my peaceful sunday evening 
Unfortunately you are right, I checked it again. The distance to the motor is the same as to the hanger right now (5mm). So if I remove a small piece of the deck then it touches the hanger plus the motor.
Again will you accept my thanks for pointing this out?
Haha sorry bro!
Same even with the extender kit ^^
Like that it’s just on time
(I have to go with Rockstar2 too … would want 5star but …)
Nah I’m going to leave this one manual. It’s on a pretty junior setup so I’m going to let some of the older kids in the neighborhood downhill it and tow them behind my golf cart for practice. @sender currently has my DW2 deck. Going to rework my mtb over the winter and hopefully be ready come spring.
Finally received the bearings to assemble the fixed motor and everything works
After adding a second flatspot to the motor shaft and gluing it to the can on the first motor I wanted to upgrade the second motor the same way. Well unfortunately 1 bolt got totally stripped despite using wera hex plus tools and using a blow torch before. Gluing the bolts with Loctite 638 was a bad idea.
So I had to saw a groove for a flat screwdriver but there was no space for any tools except this tiny saw blade and later a bigger blade.
Then I heated the area with the small blow torch again aaaaaand snap!
OK let’s try it deeper in the thread and blow torch again… zing!
This was the very last groove and try aaaand the blow torch…
aaaand snap!
After spending many hours the glorious result is a can full of metal chips and that’s it 
.
At least something different works, made 4,5mm spacer for the truck extensions so I can mount Superstar hubs as well plus bearing spacer.
Oh man that’s rough
Yeah sometimes it’s FIY (fuck it yourself) instead of DIY 
I guess I glue the gear and wait until the shaft starts shifting/moving (hopefully not at the first ride) then I can remove it and do a ghetto surgery.
Time to move on…
Curved cut-outs look sick but are tricky without the right tools (or would take forever) so why not going the easy route with a straight cut, made a simple template.
started with the small japanese saw
better with the big one, looks like a weapon
Well my arm hurts but I’m satisfied with the result
Super cleanly done bud. Did you have to go over the cut edge in black again or did it stay black?
It’s always the same, you think you can do things fast but in the end it takes forever. I’m sure you know this feeling .
First I had to shorten the 30mm shafts
After cutting several shafts with the dremel I found a better technique this time for getting straight cuts. The bell inside a bag is much easier to work with instead of the whole motor with wires. Also you can rotate the bell if you got askew and get a new chance.
On the left side you can see the slice is askew but on the motor side perfectly straight.
After grinding the edges I dremeled a (ugly) flatspot for the grub screw of the helical.
Shaft length check succeeded
Sanding the shafts and inside the helical with 80 grit sandpaper
Time for gluing
The clamps are perfect for holding the motor without any axial backlash (both motors had between 0.5 and 1mm). If you have backlash the motors will rattle badly on every bump or offroad and move left and right when accelerating/braking because of the side load of helicals.
Marked the flat spot for easy positioning of the threaded hole for the grub screw.
Then glued them with Loctite 638 and pressed them hard against the washers for some minutes. This way there is no chance for any gap and the gear sits straight on the shaft. If I would use the grub screw now this wouldn’t be the case.
It’s done, after 24 hours cure time I’ll add the grub screws with Loctite 243 and let it cure for another 48 hours.
I was thinking about a solution for precise mounting of the motor mount and went with ABS sheets between mount and wheel helical.
In the end I used the 2mm ABS sheet plus 0.5mm shrink tube to get the perfect spacing when the helical has 28mm distance to the motor.
This is very covinient for the future. When I change motors it’s always 28mm distance. When I kill the rear truck I buy a new and use the ABS sheet and heat shrink for mounting the drive train.
On my regular MTB I had to re-mount the drives several times because of killed trucks. It’s not fun to find the correct position on the hanger with mounted motor and glued helical. Next is to use the same technique with ABS sheet spacer there, too. Very soon I can do it because I’ve bent the 12mm solid axle and actually waiting for a new rear hanger.
And this is the max. tilt before the motor would hit the deck, that should be enough.
Have a nice day
