Slave gear is not hardened, just the pinion. Kevin said this a few years ago, I don’t believe it has changed.
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Weird that I’ve melted the wire twice before ever slipping a magnet.
When you do this, how do you ensure the can is balanced?
The newer ones are hardened, the ones I had were not
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Woops lol, Kevin said it would probably be fine, when I set it up. Guess I’ll get some red n tacky
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Believe me I’m surprised it broke too, as, a prime Flipsky motor supporter lol
I’m guessing it’s because they’ve been to 88c so many times but I’m not sure
Also curious about balancing
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i had a similar thing happen, hardened pinion minced the none hardened slave
but think of the machine spirit, put atleast some spray lube
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Hopes and dreams.
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Have you experienced any benefit running the boardnamics gear drive and Meepo wheels as opposed to running stooges wheels and open gear? I’m in the middle of building an 18s Magnetic 44 and my buddy is trying to get me to put gear drives on it. I’m trying to minimize failure points.
There are a few of us who have been running open gears, myself included, on the streets no problem. @Yeahthatperson runs them off-road with no problems either.
If you do go BN or Apex gear drives I’d recommend getting the adapters @Savage1 made. If you go Apex drives I still have some adapters.
The reason @ShutterShock doesn’t have the better adapters is I believe because he’s running the og axles not HD. Which is why he’s suffering from the drives slipping on hard acceleration/brake (forget which one).
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I’m currently running open gear on BRPs on the street also. My question was is there any advantage to running Gear drives for racing? I like having the freedom to run almost any gear ratio and using race wheels.
Ah ok. Personally for racing I also really like having the option of running almost any gear ratio befitting the track layout. I think @Shadowfax calculated the weight though and open is still pretty heavy so no advantage in weight it seems.
You can still run race wheels on closed drives it just takes more work. @ARCTIC ran BRPs on 3DS drives.
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In the case of SRB, the open gear design allows them to run high gear reduction ratios, which is necessary for the high kv inrunners that they use.
Generally spur gears are also the most efficient and have the best freeroll.
Thanks. @ShutterShock board sounds almost like open gear from the video. 
I am also considering lowering my 44 COG. Looking forward to seeing how yours comes out.
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In person, the open gears are aggressively loud compared to the BN-AT straight cuts. I’ll try to find my old video comparison
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Well - I personally believe closed gear drives are better for the most part. I also think my board is the best sounding style - stooge gears sound very unrefined when compared to BN straight cut. This is, of course, because of the different MOD and because of the case.
Benefits of meepo - cheaper, last longer, more impact absorption, and probably 80% of the grip of BRP? This is not an exact number or anything I’m just guessing based on feel. Would like to do an objective test sometime.
Yeah. OG rear hanger with the OG adapters. BN made me some HD adapters though for when I switch the rear hanger. I’m not sure if that will be good enough or if I’ll ALSO need the phil adapters to help hold it in place.
And yes, it was on accel AND decel, depending on the day and how tight I was able to wrench it before riding.
I will be doing the same, just gotta design an adapter, should be pretty simple. Had to make an adapter for my meepos anyway.
Yep. Max ratio I can do on the BN is 5.5, minimum is 3.8 I think, so not a ton of range, but enough to definitely make a difference.
Almost - but more refined IMO (biased ofc.)
There is also a lot of vibration noise in the camera shot from the board, wind and mounting combined
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What are the Boardnamics adapters like? I found my Savage ones still slipped a bit on my 4GS even with a jam nut against them, but once I threw some red loctite in there they have been super stable.
how are you gauging that? when switched to brp they were lasting me 6 times as long as mb155s.
are the meepos even better than that?
Street BRPs or the softer race compound?
the race compound. the only thing that existed when I switched. 45A rear / 50A front.
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The OG adapters are just a threaded piece, that interfaces with the GD.
First, you screw on a jam nut onto the hanger, then, you screw on the adapter until it bottoms out. At the beginning, I tried running it with no loctire (back when it was a 14s build with the makerx m100s) and it was okay
Second I switched to 18s and upped the power by like 60%, they started slipping.
I added red loctite to the adapter threads and that lasted surprisingly well, but has been slipping for the last couple months of riding.
Rambling aside, I think I showed this in my video series but I can’t remember.
Anyways, I think with the bigger thread and red loctite, the new set will be okay without phils adapters, but I’m not sure. I think I’m planning to pick them up from him anyway, since there shouldn’t really be a space issue on the HD hanger.
I’m gauging it versus how quickly Reggie and Jack go through their racing tires. Reggie has been killing a set basically every two months. Granted they push pretty hard, but I’ve also been on my set of meepos since before esk8con this year and they are just now (end of AVS) showing cords and acting like drag slicks. I I had been better about rotating them, they may have lasted a little longer.
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