In need of advice for a first "real" build.

[skyking]

Hey all! I’m planning on piecing together a new build over the winter, and was wondering what y’all thought of the current part lineup. My goal with these components is to assemble a commuter board with a kick – reasonable enough to take to university, and powerful enough to rip around on during the weekends.

Anyways, here are the parts I have in mind:

2x Flipsky 6374 (Already own)

2x Boardnamics motor mounts (Already own 1 of 2, great quality btw.)

1x Boardnamics 220mm REAR truck

1x Caliber II FRONT truck
(I already own a pair of cal IIs, and upgrading both trucks is too expensive.)

2x Boardnamics Kegel 44t pulleys with bearings

1x TB110 Arctic Blue wheels

1x Generic drop down deck from eBay

1x Spintend Ubox

12s3p 21700 pack OR 12s4p 18650 pack, probably picked up with light use from someone here. I am open to offers, but am also low on funds.

Finally, I’ll probably DIY an enclosure.

Here’s what the specs should translate to irl, if it helps:

Let me know what y’all think! Anything I should invest more in, anything I can cheap out on? Thanks so much!

[b264]

@skyking

1x Boardnamics 220mm REAR truck

1x Caliber II FRONT truck
(I already own a pair of cal IIs, and upgrading both trucks is too expensive.)

While a more narrow front truck definitely doesn’t look as good, imho, I do that a lot and a narrower front truck actually handles better and seems more stable in my experience.

[b264]

While your plan looks really good, and I like a lot of the choices,

@skyking

Finally, I’ll probably DIY an enclosure.

This can definitely bite you. I’d DIY that BEFORE buying any more parts.

@b264

If I could be of assistance, it would be to choose your items in a certain order. Don’t choose anything else until you’ve chosen your deck and enclosure. Because you need to know if it will even fit. Enclosures are much more difficult than you think, and you need to know if flexibility will be something you design for, or not. So go in a certain order, along the whole way making sure you choose things that are compatible with each other.

1. helmet
2. deck + enclosure (flex?)
3. battery (flex?)
4. ESC(s)
5. drivetrain & trucks & motor mount
6. wheels
7. motors
8. {everything else}
9. remote
10. aesthetics: grip, colors, lights

Leaving enclosures until last as an afterthought is a surefire way to end up in a less-than-ideal position.

[tipsy]

@skyking

Finally, I’ll probably DIY an enclosure.

1. It will cost more money/time/effort than you think. I would buy one if possible.

2. Probably the best bang for the buck/(duck) battery - 12s3p 30Q for $175
   *EVERYTHING PRICE DROPPED* DUCK BATTERY LIQUIDATION SALE (US)

3. 184 in the front might get wheelbites with 110 wheels. looks ugly too but that’s subjective

[b264]

@tipsy

It will cost more money/time/effort than you think. I would buy one if possible.

this, times two

But if you want to go down that route, I’d do it before buying anything else

For tips, look in here

$40 Home depot custom enclosure

I wanted to finally start logging a build here at the risk of making something that dosen’t work so we can all learn together. One of the hardest things I’ve found about esk8 is sourcing well-fitting enclosures cheaply. One route is ABS or Kydex. However, I don’t have an oven big enough to soften the stuff to form around a mold, plus my lady will kick me out if she finds me using the oven to bake anything other than food again. I have some decent experience in shaping foam and laminating surfb…

Avoid ABS and carbon fiber enclosures. Fiberglass or non-carbon composites are best.

[Frenchylandshoosgor]

@b264

@skyking

1x Boardnamics 220mm REAR truck

1x Caliber II FRONT truck
(I already own a pair of cal IIs, and upgrading both trucks is too expensive.)

While a more narrow front truck definitely doesn’t look as good, imho, I do that a lot and a narrower front truck actually handles better and seems more stable in my experience.

Completely agree with you, it’s more stable at high speed and I find it more maneuverable.

[skyking]

I read one of the threads where you mentioned that actually, and that’s part of the reason I’m planning on narrower front trucks! Good to know that configuration has served you well. As far as the enclosures are concerned, I was lurking in the home depot enclosure thread that you mentioned, and it seems like a really nice option.

Thanks for all the input, I really appreciate it!

[skyking]

I have been eyeing that battery for the better part of a week, ngl. My main concern is that the pack won’t have enough continuous amps. This is something I’ve been confused about for a while, actually, so maybe you could elaborate on it.
When I watched vesc overlay riding videos, it seemed like people used ~60-90 amps during acceleration, and only ~20 amps during the majority of the ride. I only weigh 130lbs, so I might not even hit those numbers, but there are some hills around where I live.

If I do get the 12s3p pack, will it have enough amps to be a good fit for the dual 6374s?

Thanks!

[tipsy]

I think you’ll be fine.
My small thane board has similar specs with 10s3p and is very zippy. I’m 185 lbs.
You don’t need a ton of battery amps with a high gear ratio and you can run as high motor amps as you want regardless of battery amps.

If you are running idler mounts, 14T motor pulleys would be even nicer.

[skyking]

Thanks for the advice! I can def grab a couple 14t pulleys, and the 12s3p looks like a steal, so I’m glad it will work. Looks like this build is starting to come together!

[b264]

Don’t confuse battery amps with motor amps. You will be totally fine. You can be fine even down to 25A battery max, and at 130lbs (59kg) probably even 20A battery max would make a perfectly functional board. Any more is just going to make it more zippy.

[skyking]

Every time I learn something, it feels like I learn about ten more things to research T.T Thanks for the input, I was under the impression that like 90a was necessary for the longest time. This makes things a lot easier.

[b264]

@tipsy

12s3p 30Q for $175

This can probably handle 45A without issue, so 22.5A battery max per ESC in a dual drive configuration, this will move you very swiftly. Your “motor max” can be set significantly higher than that.

[rusins]

@skyking

a commuter board with a kick

@skyking

Generic drop down deck from eBay

Which one is it? I don’t know of any drop down boards with a usable kick-tail…

[skyking]

Oop, I meant with a kick as in a board with a noticeable bit of power. I could have worded that better haha

[rusins]

Just remember that the TB wheels are big, and those RKP trucks are a worst case scenario for wheel-bite

[skyking]

Thanks for the tip! These are the kind of things I never think of, so it’s super nice to have input like this. I had an incident with wheelbite on my first ultra-budget board, so I’m not going to let that happen again.