Yeah most of the times its either € or 
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Could you explain this for a dummie?
This is really good advice.
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Around $500-$700 is what my board costed me thanks to my good homie @DerelictRobot donating to the poor. He got sick of my range anxiety and this is what happened. I’ll fucking race it. It’s pretty fast…
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Thank you!
Another stupid question, you’d want the air filled ones so you can adjust air pressure right?
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Lol…close to 3k in parts alone in that thing
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This and they’re just comfortable when compared to non air filled tires. I might have a set of these I can sell you for super cheap if ya want. With pullies too.
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Andrew doesn’t look at things in cost of $$$. It’s all love…
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Most of them are running PU in that video though or am I seeing wrong?
The grip on the roads is better too than urethane, especially the karting tracks that we race are slippery for those wheels since there is a lot of rubber residue left.
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Broke AF atm but there might be PM’s coming your way soon 
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Nobody can overtake you too with those wide trucks 
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Yeah, I mean making your own rims from a block of aluminum with a lathe and various hand tools.
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If you still want to build inrunner setup, here’s a list of components I’ve found to work very well on a race board thats within your budget:
This motor is a lowish kv (700kv) so on 6s, you can use a normal belt or chain drive without an extreme gearing ratio. In my experience, this motor can output around 60 amps continuously with passive cooling and 90 amps with a heatsink and fan.
This is a rebranded hobbywing esc, which has proved to be reliable for me. It stays cool to the touch under stressful conditions, has a punchy yet controllable throttle, and strong braking.
Turnigy batteries have a bad reputation for exaggerating their current specs but surprisingly, this lipo doesn’t sag much under heavy load. Get two of these in parallel and you should get around 8 miles of range on urethane wheels or 4.5 miles on 150mm pneumatics.
I would recommend a chain drive setup over 32 pitch spur gears. Chain is easier to mount, just as reliable and tends to last longer than tiny pinion gears.
For just over 500$ you can get alot of bang for your buck. The only thing this setup lacks is range so in the future you could just upgrade to a larger battery.
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As much as it pains me 
The FatMan (b264) is 100% right.
Racing means riding fast shoulder to shoulder & unlike a casual ride you should expect to crash because rubbing is racing. It is (I find) most often a case of you either crashing into others who are out of control or crashing as you try to avoid them.
I’d bypass regular skate safety gear and go for a set of leathers, gloves, and a full-face helmet. In simple terms, if you be going road traffic speed I’d think about getting a motorcycle helmet. A $100 helmet is just as good as a $500 helmet, the latter will just be better ventilated and lighter. I like Arai because the shape suits my narrow pointier head, so actually go try helmets on in a store rather than just buy online. Fit is everything and the brands don’t all use a standard head shape mold.
FWD vs RWD
FWD is good while you have grip and will be more in control. It will not torque load your deck under power 
. An example of this is a Trampa mtb bucking when you come off the throttle. If you break traction under throttle mid-late corner you will understeer 
but you might find this easier to control than oversteer? You will have slightly better brakes but might find you un-weight the front wheels under full throttle especially going uphill
RWD
Your steering will stay pointy mid-late corner but if you break-traction you will fishtail. Often this takes longer to recover from than momentary understeer as it un-balances the whole board . Personally, I really bias my weight to my front foot on my longboard but ride more even with foot straps on my eMtB…
It looks like you already ride a longboard with some level of proficiency so you have that experience to lean on. I don’t think either is a certain victor which is likely the last thing you want to hear.
I find RWD more fun and FWD faster unless you have so much power you are constantly falling off the back of your board.
All in all for a $500 race board your best bet will be to shop the for sale/2nd hand parts section and hope to get lucky to buy some new/old gear someone else bought and didn’t use. I have had luck with RC esc myself (scorpion, hobbywing & I have castle on hand aswell), except for a vesc6 that has also been no drama but will be out of your price range I assume.
The secret (if there is one) is to not ever run and of your gear a 100% capacity. The more safety margin you can build in the better especially for racing. But that goes for all gear, motors, batteries,wire guage, esc’s…
Anyway, good luck Bro, I see on your profile you are a bit of a reader which is awesome but can be confusing. Till you learn to sort the chaff from the cheese it can be best to more closely listen to only a couple of people
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Awesome thanks dude!
Chain drive seems like a good option, is it hard to get the right gearing or are there a lot of alternatives?
Lets say i run a 16/48 belt drive, would the teeth ratio be equal if i run chains?
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Thanks man! This is exactly what i was hoping for, some real life experiences tempered with honest opinion!
Tbh I’ve been on a longboard since I was 14, done some DH (not racing though) and just found myself curious about where to start IF i ever decided to get into racing…
Motor sprockets of all sizes are abundant and cheap online and getting the right chainlength is easy with a chainbreaker. Finding the right wheel sprocket is a bit more difficult though as the mounting holes are usually different.
Belt pulleys and sprockets of the same teeth are usually within 5 to 10mm of each other, which is insignificant. At top speed, it’s usually a difference of 1.5 kmph realistically.
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Lets say I got a 1700kv motor and trying to gear it for a race setup.
I figured something like 9/86 in gearing would get me to around 45mph, is that a reasonable gearing ratio? And would it fit the wheel? 
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1700kv is on the higher side, see if you can get a lower kv and use a larger pinion (assuming all the math/speed is right). 9t pinion will wear quickly, it is a engineering thing. The mesh is also not as good as a higher tooth count. If you can try to use at least 11-13t count although past 15-16t you don’t gain much if you really try to exploit it.
These motors are pricey but for example 1050kv (they are also spec’ed well, look for the little details like lamination thickness, ect…)
HobbyStar 4092 1050kv
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