How to update firmware on the Flipsky 75100 & 75200 FOC ESC

How safe is it getting up to the 84v it claims possible?

Flipsky 75100 With Aluminum PCB Based on VESC For Electric Skateboard – FLIPSKY

Does using higher voltage reduce the likelihood of thermal shutdown?

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I’m running one on 20s. It has all 100v components, so probably fine. Current should be the primary contributor to heating.

If you put one on your ebike, let me know how it goes. I drained a 20s4p battery, the last half with 40A field weakening and never saw more than 60c. I did have full airflow on it.

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Wow how esc tech has flown forward and prices go down.

I’ll be putting it on a bike 20s lifepo4. I wonder how big voltage spikes are running a regen brake and I guess that can’t be seen logging data

I’ll be using ur firmware.

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Hello again,

so I have done a few tests and it is off, but the difference in current reading is very small. It never exceeds the actual current limit, it is very precisely 45A on BMS when set 45A maximum in VESC, only VESC Tool itself reports a little bit over 45A.


But now I am calibrating the voltage reading of the firmware, I have done this by calculating:
VESC reports with V_REG 3.37: 53.0v
BMS reports: 53,687v

((3.37 / 4095.0) * x * ((56000 + 2200) / 2200) = 53.0
x = 2434.4

((x / 4095.0) * 2434.4 * ((56000 + 2200) / 2200) = 53.687
x = 3.4137

Now we have exactly:
((3.4137 / 4095.0) * 2434.4 * ((56000 + 2200) / 2200)) = 53.68632661738261

VESC reports with V_REG 3.37: 54,50v
BMS reports: 55.112v

((3.37 / 4095.0) * x * ((56000 + 2200) / 2200) = 54.40
x = 2498.7

((x / 4095.0) * 2498.7 * ((56000 + 2200) / 2200) = 55.112
x = 3.4142


This means we have a V_REG of 3.4137 - 3.4142.
So seems 3,413 is our lucky number, so I compiled and flashed it and there we go. Accurate voltage reading! :smile:
Someone else I know also tried it with the same result, so it seems to be working.

One question still remains, @jaykup what your comments mean on VIN_R1 and VIN_R2. Why does it say xy measured but the value itself is something different?
#define VIN_R1 56000.0 // (jaykup) updated 393 SMD code, 38,800 measured
#define VIN_R2 2200.0 // (jaykup) updated 01B code, 1k measured

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This is awesome!

The V1 is the unit that I originally tore apart and created the firmware for. The vesc measures input voltages using a voltage divider. I found those two resistors and measured them in circuit, but ultimately went with what the smd code called for.

#define VIN_R1 39000.0 // (jaykup) updated 393 SMD code, 38,800 measured

#define VIN_R2 1000.0 // (jaykup) updated 01B code, 1k measured
#endif

When the v2 came out, it was using the stock 75_300_r2 firmware, so I just used those values (56000/2200) but forgot to change the comments to reflect the origin.

The V_REG is the same thing, default from the 75_300_R2. I have a V2 at home, so I’ll test using the 3.412 and if it’s dead on I’ll update the firmware on this thread. Thanks!

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I compiled new firmware based on @1zuna’s calculations and will release it as soon as I test it a bit. I compiled for 5.2, 5.3 and 6.0, including some no-limit versions

The aluminum pcb version might be able to handle small bursts at 250 phase amps based on the mosfet datasheet, but that’s way over what Flipsky is rating it at. Better have a hot air station and a fuse between the battery and the ESC if running that high :slight_smile:

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Tested the voltage measurement adjustment for the v2/aluminum PCB and it is more accurate than it was before with both the stock 75_300_R2 firmware, and my v2 firmware.

Updated the main post with a zip file of all the firmware versions including 5.2, 5.3, 6.0 beta 56 and no limit versions for each.

Also updated the source files with more accurate comments, and a few other changes.

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which firmware work with Flipsky Dual 75100 Aluminum PCB? sry im new here, i just get it but didnt connect yet.

Both the single and dual aluminum pcb versions will work with 75100_V2

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Awesome 5.3 custom frimware loaded up nicely.

But I accidently reset the vesc settings before running the motor wizard. :flushed:

Flipsky websites states

“Warm tips:
Phase filering is not available for Flipsky ESC75100 and 75200!
Please turn off the phase filter function and choose “false” in vesc_tool when use firmware version on or above 5.3 (VESC_TOOL 3.01). Without turning off the phase filter will result in esc damage. Please do not restore the default parameters when using the wizard interface.”

IMG-20220726-WA0006

But in the settings is see

  1. Why are the two screenshots showing different phase filter settings

  2. Because I reset the settings. Is there any settings I should fix before running the motor test…don’t want to fry anything

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First one means phase filters are not available on your hardware.
Second one is the firmware setting - needs to be false.

I disabled the phase filters at the firmware level, so no matter what the “Enable Phase Filters” setting says they will still be disabled because of this:

image

However, if it’s saying true by default, even though the phase filters are still disabled, that means you are running the earlier version of the firmware that had the voltage reading error. I’d recommend downloading the latest from the zip file in the first post and using that. They are disabled either way, but the old firmware was off by about half a volt.

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Ok set phase filter to false just to be sure.
Ran motor detection, first time made some beeps and said something about flux detection/issue and ever since I only see this when running the detection

I tried pressing KL detector too but no luck.

Flipsky sky blinks red when connected to the motor.

Ironically before running the detection. The motor was responding to throttle. I wanted to do wizard to makes sure the settings are right and now nothing.

:sob::rofl:

edit update

Flux linkage detection failed. That was the first error seen. I just realized I was using my power supply as the battery which only had 58v6amp. The detection should I set the current cutoff to 6. It think it was trying to pull more , as I put the battery cutoff at 50a. Or do I need an actually lith back (14s)

I use a power supply for testing too. If the current is too low, then it will fail flux linkage detection. The motor detection requires more power than just spinning up the motor. I use a 10A supply.

Ok i will use my battery 14s20ah 58v pack.

It has a 63a circuit breaker.

I will also set Current MAX at 40A in motor detection setup

This is okay to prevent damage to controller and motor ?

:pray::place_of_worship::palms_up_together::prayer_beads::synagogue:

Wish me luck guys.

Ps. Should I run it on smaller motor preset like 2000g or is 6000g motor. I have mac motor hub drive for ebike.

@jaykup have enough fun yet? Flipsky has another one for you :joy:

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Following question, does not have to do with the firmware (besides the fact that it has to be configured for it), but do you think the hardware of the Flipsky 75100 will survive 22S battery configuration? (79.2v nominal, 92.4v full charged). Theoretically it should be able to do it, but maybe someone already tried it.

Probably. I think all the components are rated for 100v. I’d be careful on regen. If no regen, it’s going to sag under load anyway. I run it on 20s (84v) with regen with no problems.

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Thought I’d share some “warm tips” (Lol!)as well.

Don’t forget to disable filters! Know that saying “ if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”? It’s basically my life’s story. I’m always breaking shit by fixing what wasn’t broken.
I just blew a FET on a perfectly fine 75/100 V2 that gave me months of great performance. For some reason I decided I wanted a clean slate so I reflashed but forgot to disable filters. FOC wizard actually worked, the motor seemed to run ok with no load as well but once I tried to ride it hiccuped and acted like a motor phase connection was bad, stupidly I pushed the throttle one more time and heard a sizzle noise. My brain immediately realized what just happened.

Took everything apart and sure enough, a FETs drain PCB trace was vaporized and both FETs for that phase were bad.

Hopefully I can replace the bad FETs with identical hood ones from another 75/100 I fried. I can use some solder wick to replace the short trace that fried.

Seems like the ST405 is fine, I get a solid blue light when powered on. Is this a good sign? Do the FET drivers blow along with the FET or is it usually just the FET?

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Still not getting detection used my battery 14s20ah 58v pack.

It has a 63a circuit breaker.

I will also set Current MAX at 30A in motor detection setup.

But detection failed, sensor detection failed.

This is :face_exhaling:

I think the detection is not working because my motor temp is jumping to 270dec C ( fault) i think i will disconnect that cable and try again. Doesnt look like there is a software way to disable it. Tried two different motors and they both showing same 270deg. Will need to review there wiring…