A simple check could be to check your battery connection to the ESC, make sure it’s solid. Could be a loose or bad connection and so it reads fine until you start trying to draw real power in which it actually can’t.
I assumed he’d already done that but ya, that’s the first place to start. Cold welds would be a prime culprit. @GnomeMeansNo did you build your own pack and solder your own connectors?
Ya he’s an experienced battery builder. You’re looking at the wrong end of the connectors though. You want to check the solder joints. Even w an experienced builder a joint could get damaged or could have been missed. That’s gonna be a pain w those panel mount pass throughs.
I’m assuming you get proper voltage at your main discharge terminals?
HOLY SHIT YOU GUYS I figured it out.
I took apart my other board to try that battery and it worked fine.
Then I realized… The socket slid in further on the battery that works.
The first battery just needs a serious fuckoff push to seat all the way in:
WRONG (there’s a “bumpstop” here that makes it feel like it’s fully seated):
I think what I was seeing was only the outer “antispark first touch” ring was touching so only the power that could go through the antispark diode was feeding the ESC - and that’s not much.