No not yet. I read your values in that link you posted and realised the values I had of 36/34 were pretty conservative and given I was getting about 3v voltage sag I figured 32/30 would be closer to 35/33 in reality?
I dropped the amps to 25, and it barely made a difference. As b264 originally suggested 15 amps but also said the performance will be bad, and I know it won’t climb the hill I need it to even at 25, let alone 20 or 15. So that’s not a long term solution. I will try 15 tho for trouble shooting purposes.
But I’m confused now about what would be a long term solution apart from going dual. Earlier everyone thought I had an earlier VESC 4.2 or 4.12 and said buy a new ESC. But it’s actually a 6.7 pro mini with a heat sink, and it’s not like 30 amps battery is a lot right?
Before I realised I had a 6.7 I actually picked up a cheap unused FSESC 6.6 over here in Oz that someone was selling nearby but now I’m wondering if that was a waste of money. Are they better at handling heat than the 6.7 mini? Is it even worth trying it?
Is it really normal for ANY 6 series VESC to heat up that fast running only 30 amps? I really didn’t think I was asking for that extreme a level of performance.
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I’m only telling you because I’ve junked batteries before and it’s no fun at all. Do whatever you want, though. In a perfect world, running it down to 30V won’t hurt the battery. In a perfect world.
What are your phase current settings?
Phase current? I have no idea mate. The board is right here and I can bluetooth it but where do I find that setting?
Motor current in the VESC tool typically inputted at a positive and then a negative (brake) current.
My recommendation is still the same. I’ve built a lot of single drives, in fact I build mostly single drives, and have had this problem before.
It’s my opinion that if you put a FOCBOX 1.6 in it it, will perform a lot better. These can be found on the used market.
Adding external airflow (going through the enclosure) with the heatsink would be even better.
Sometimes you don’t even need to expose the heatsink.
This thin piece of aluminum is only thermally connected to the heatsink (on a FOCBOX 1.6) by those two M4 bolts, and yet it actually makes a lot of difference being there versus not being there. And this is a lot easier to waterproof and more robust than exposing the ESC through the enclosure.
This is like “half heatsinked”, not as good as exposing the metal on the ESC case, but not as bad as being bundled up inside the enclosure. It gives the ESC a way to cool off and bleed heat to the outside, through the two steel bolts. It’s also lifted slightly off the enclosure with washers.
Ah motor current? It’s 50 and - 50.
So focbox 1.6 definitely handles heat A LOT better than a FSESC 6.7?
Should I try the 6.6 or is that unlikely to be any different?
The only experience I have with a FSESC 6.7 is at low battery current. (not on an esk8) so I’m not sure how that one performs. Maybe someone else knows.
Just to add to the picture I rode home at 20 amps battery and it was quite a lot better. Only got to 62c at the top of the hill (instead of 80) and 67 by the time I got home. Performance tho, as predicted, was pretty lame.
Can a focbox handle 45A battery / 50A motor continuous, on a hot day, for a whole ride, climb hills etc and stay under 70c? Can any ESC?
From all the reading I’ve done I would have thought any VESC 6 could at least handle 30A standing on its head, and yet…
I rode a single motor board for quite a while.
I used a Torqueboards 4.12 and then a Trampa VESC 6 - 60A battery / 80A motor on both.
The 4.12 overheated and hit thermal throttle all the time.
The VESC 6 would only do it on super steep hills, or lots of continuous high speed stuff (need more power to push through the wind).
The Focbox won’t be as good as the VESC 6. It has the same mosfets (the electronic part that gets hot), but a smaller/lighter heatsink.
The mini FSESC 6.7 you have is a VESC 6 design, but all that means is that the layout of the electronic components matches the VESC 6 schematic. You can build a VESC 6 to handle 500A, or 20A. The mini FSESC 6.7 uses the same mosfets as some of the Stormcore 60D+, but only half of them. That means 4x the heating just by internal resistance alone. Then it’s sitting on a tiny PCB with an anemic heatsink cooled from the top.
I would guess that the mini FSESC 6.7 would fall somewhere around the 45-60 second range on the chart above.
If you can find a Focbox somewhere, it will work better than what you have but may not be enough. If you want a sub $100 single motor controller that will probably never thermal throttle on you, go for the 75100 Aluminum PCB. It does need to be opened up and the capacitors glued down, along with either grommets on the wire exits or extra shrink tubing to make it reliable… but it will handle 80A all day long without breaking a sweat.
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The esc you linked was branded “Makerbase”. Is this the OEM for the Flipsky 71500?
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I’m not sure. Based on their other offerings, I don’t think Makerbase made it.
I don’t like Flipsky as a company overall. They have stolen designs from people/not honored agreements in the past (DaveGa, original 75100) so this may also be a stolen design, or something they are putting their name on… but it could also be a Flipsky original.
It’s frustrating because this is such a good controller hardware wise.
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Mate thanks for the detailed comparison / description between the 6.7 and others and where it sits in the mix - that was really the missing piece of the puzzle for me.
Still can’t work out why my VESC 6 behaves exactly as you describe yours did but with only half the amps.
I have no problem doing things like gluing and fitting grommets, but the programming side of things is where I quickly run out of knowledge. I read your thread actually on reprogramming the 75100 and it was like you guys were speaking a different language.
B264 walked me through setting the current esc up with VESC tool actually quite a while ago - is it essentially the same process? If so I could refer back to those notes, or is this a step too far for a beginner diy-er? We didn’t use the wizard in VESC tool but would it work on the 75100 essentially?
I think you have a Mini FSESC 6.7, not a TrampESC VESC 6
It can be daunting for someone who isn’t used to all that stuff.
Here is how I’d setup a 75100 if I had one in a single motor board
- Hook up the ESC to the motor
- Download the custom firmware
- Open the VESC tool
- Connect to the ESC though a USB cable
- Load the custom firmware. Firmware → Custom File → select .bin
- After it loads and reboots:
- Run the motor wizard.
- Run the input wizard.
- Adjust motor current / battery current based on what you know works up those hills.
Go ride.
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Aha right yes I’m pretty sure I’ve got what’s called the 6.7 pro mini. Not all VESC 6 created equal - I understand now I think.
And thanks jaykup for the step by step that’s a lot simpler than I thought it would be. There was all sorts of talk about FW and phase filters and other such expletives on that thread.
I just ordered the esc you linked and download the custom firmware from the 75100 thread - which .bin file do i use in the V2/alupcb folder? 5.2, 5.3 or 6.0? And ‘normal’ or ‘no limits’?
Its 4 weeks away according to aliexpress…
5.3 normal from the v2/aluminum pcb folder is what I’d use. The 6.0 is still beta (at least until 12/1)
Awesome. Thanks mate.
And thanks to everyone else who chipped in to help me understand ESC performance. One step closer to DIYing a board properly one day…