Where this would shine is on motors, but again once if really needed
If I’m not mistaken @deckoz talked about trying since even with big motors he overheats them
A big lump of metal is enough to absorb heat quicker than its saturation speed. Enough to the point that if you manage a good thermal patch, you don’t need anything else at these temperatures levels.
That’s kinda what laptops with caloducs rely on.
Suck the heat away with thermal conduction then cool down however you want (passive or active cooling).
That’s also what someone wanted to patent in trucks cause let’s patent existing stuff and slow down progress. Anyway.
If you guys really want relevant and good data on how to cool down your electronics, just dive into processors / graphic card cooling data. There’s already an extensive research down and available about materials, their thermal conductivity, pastes, pads, electrically conductive and non conductive ones, prices, durability, list goes on. Same for liquid cooling.
Given how many here are knowledgeable when it comes to esk8, I’ve been surprised not to see more suggestions pop out for various questions.
Still amazed at how long it took people to start looking at ways to put heatsinks on VESCs for example. And some are still doing it wrong despite being 2019.
@riako has it right IMHO. Kudos bro.
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My biggest concern was electronics locked in an oven. Thick wood on top and fiberglass or plastic on the sides makes for a rather well insulated.
My father always said, “you’re just fucking around until you need to remove a lot of heat”
So would getting thin aluminium and running it the whole length of enclosure then putting components in help?
Based on that what we do with our electronics (rough numbers here)
If electronics stay below 45C, there’s really no need to cool them. anything above 90C and you’re asking for trouble. The question then becomes of how the temperature is taken . And adjacent thermistor is no match for a thermoelectric meter.
Though that’s a theoretical discussion. Relevant to esk8, I think @deckoz is saying that the majority of heat loss is through the Motors, which makes intuitive sense, but is at odds with my limited experience with RC.
But, practice beats theory every time.
I was just curious because we are riding around with 10hp regulated through an insulated box and yet somehow heat doesn’t pose that much of an issue? Color me surprised.
Just set them on them or caulk them to the aluminum?
I didn’t say it was better. If you read the comments I was replying to he was talking about making the entire bottom of his enclosure a aluminum heatsink… the only downside is more weight.
Makes sense yeah, apologies.
Some cheeky enertion™ cooling fins would do the job.
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It isn’t practical… thats why it’s not done. I was just seeing if anyone has tried it for the ridiculousness factor. I would say a it would only add 1.5lbs.
Ya I have seen a few watercooled motors on flipsky site. They are used for efoils
The highest temp ive ever seen on my 12s 4.12x2 mountainboard on a hot day, towing someone up a hill is 52c. On an average day like today i couldn’t even crack 41c. I use 1 high power 50mm fan.To prevent wayer ingress the inlets and outlets are underneath the enclosure parallel to the board with a 5mm gap. Heatshrink is removed from the vescs
Is it working?
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Hey, i never actually got the vents or installed them 
but it is coming into summer here and I suspect that heat may very well become an issue for me. I should order these now.
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Feel like i just saw a conversation yesterday about them not being very effective. Think it was @Venom121212 and @Battery_Mooch ?
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Why not build a encloser that has a large alu plate in it exposed to the outside air. Large CSA exsposed to outside air has a huge amount of heat exchange potenchal and you moving is a fan
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That would involve a complete redesign of what I currently have. It will never happen.
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Is it a top box mounted ESC?
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Just one vent can’t do much as there’s no way to allow air out of the enclosure so air won’t flow in. Two vents can work but water and who-knows-what gets in too. Gore vents allow tiny amounts of air to get in/out (if using two vents) but just exposing a metal heat spreader plate to the outside (with the ESC and whatever else mounted to it) will be much more effective IMO.
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I’m curious how to transfer heat from a battery to a heat think safely
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You need to pass the metal between the cells to pick up the heat and transfer it to a heat sink. Tough to do well.
You can do a single layer of cells thermal epoxied to a metal sheet but there’s not much contact…pretty inefficient. Use thin gap pads or polyester tape as an insulating layer for safety but it reduces the heat flow. Better to use separate p-group sheets.
You can machine copper or aluminum blocks with spaces to nestle the cells in but that adds a lot of cost and weight.
Air blowing down the length of the cells, and in between them, can do some cooling. This can be done in a sealed enclosure. You are heating up the air inside but it would heat up anyway with the pack being in there. The fan just helps spread the heat around more evenly more quickly.
There are other more expensive and/or more complex methods but typically not worth it for a low power application like this.
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