You don’t need a 10mm bearing as the wheels inside bearing cup connects directly to the kegel adapter.
You only need a bearing for the outside wheel. (8mm)
I have the exact same setup as you. (the same batch) No rear bolts either
(you need M8 Nylon Lock Bolts)
Also had to file the 8mm part to allow for the bearing to fit.
The motors are great but my axle bent in 2 days.
I can ollie up curbs with my deck and I also ride off of curbs with it.
This has caused the rear axle to bend…however…
I am in contact with Kenna on whatsapp and have found out that they are now using a 12mm axle for most of the span, stepped down to 10mm then 8mm for the outside bearing only.
NOT HEAT TREATED!!!
Trampa trucks are 12mm and wider. They are heat treated, have no holes through them and can take some seriously big jumps, no bending. I bent these 12mm trucks riding off of a 6 inch curb.
Elofty are convinced that 12mm is strong enough not to heat treat.
I beg to differ, so far I am told that if I change my wheels the problem will no longer happen.
I have been skating for 42 years, I think a truck should handle riding off of a curb without bending.
Especially a 12mm one.
I’m using Blue Caguamas, the wheels are not the problem the soft non heat treated steel is.
Also there are 2 pins holding the axle in place, these go straight through the axle creating the mother of all weak spots in the area that needs to be the strongest. I think this is where mine bent.
I also pointed this out but my observations and suggestions were not heard.
All this setup needs to be (in my opinion) way better is: a 12mm HEAT TREATED hardened steel axle without any holes through it…and some included bolts that fit.
They are refusing to make this at the moment, but I think it would be a game changer, or at least a step in the right direction.
As aside note: once the axle was bent, the added uneven flex to the kegel adapter while riding caused 3 of the prongs to break off. They are screwed in, its not a solid cnc adapter like it looks.
I believe in this design and product, Kenna has been polite and responsive.
I am posting this in the hope that the added awareness leads to improvements for everyone using this setup. I’m not trying to be a dick here, I just want to skate like a skater and ride off of curbs!
It was awesome for the two battery charges that I got out of it.
x
I’m going to use this as a placeholder as I’ve got to get up for f*%king jury duty in 4 hrs.
and… not trying to be a dick… but your unfortunate experience has convinced me that the additional support of the inner 10mm bearing is required.
Just a couple of quick thoughts, as you mention your adapter broke do you think an additional bearing support between them and the axle would have made the situation better or worse?
And you observed the bending of your axle, and the stress riser of the pinned axle in the truck, do you think that adding an additional bearing and decreasing the lever arm from this stress point would make the situation better or worse?
I’ll be back later to further expound…
BTW… are our motors 78kV? (we have another variant) my cans do not have the external radial screws as your cans do.
Ah ok better like that.
Yeh blueing is an old school trick. I also blue all the custom tool I make for the lathe and mill. Quick and decent result for my application.
Hey dude, Mine are 58kv.
On my adapters there is no possibility to use a bearing on the inside, the kegel adapter plugs straight in.
There is a round section that is the size of a bearing and the prongs that go into the holes.
I don’t know if your’s are the same but I agree with you that a bearing both sides would be better that just one side and adapter only on the other.
It’s a delicate process of pointing out flaws without offending anybody while focusing on improvements only, so I can Skate like a Skater.
That’s all I’m doing here.
Kenna has offered me a new axle with no changes whatsoever to the one I’ve already bent, because of this I’m DIYing “adapters” made out of wowgo hub sleeves that sit on the inside of the motors.
They will be 1-2mm smaller in diameter than my wheels so that they never touch while riding, they will prevent any motor contact when riding on uneven surfaces and will also prevent the axles bending as the “adaptors” won’t allow the axles to flex as much as they will touch the ground before that happens.
Covering only a small part of the motor, I don’t think it will affect the heat dissipation that much, lets see.
I’m riding off of curbs no matter what dude!
I am looking into getting my own axle made (proper hardened heat treated, same spec + no through holes) and having it inserted into the alu part of the hanger.
It’s a bummer that such a good product has such an achilles heal.
w0w another variant… mine are 58kV as well, look up above at the assembled and adapter pix, I bought, and inserted a 10x22x6 bearing in the inner wheel race with no problem.
also, there have been other axle problems with different variants, have you considered Titanium, Inconel or Monel as possibly better axle alternatives of carbon steel, heat treated or not!
Also, I failed to mention it, but on the front hanger I just received, the axle is inside the aluminum from bearing race to bearing race, and not exposed like previous versions.
Deck for my drives came in today! Unity is in the states. Just need a battery now
One thing I never considered until now… Motor Bite?! Haha. With a TKP setup it seems like the deck indeed does contact the motors. I’ll have to use a small riser
Hey Dude,
just wanted to share a good find with you.
I have bought these and will try to convert one to take the motors.
It’ll be a lot of filing to remove the alu hanger and expose the 12mm Hardened Steel axle to match the original hanger, but I think this will be way stronger.
As a bonafide 12mm axle and not stepped down to 8mm I will have to use trampa hubs with gummies on them. Dunno when I’ll get it all done but this is the road I’m going down.
These trucks retail in the UK for £20.
It cannot be true that making a hardened steel axle is so costly.
For the difference it makes to the durability of the axle, whatever the cost is…it is in my opinion worth it.
Please let us know how it turns out and how you do it, my drives are arriving this week and with At wheels it might stress the axle even more. I’m for sure interested!!
I ground the aluminium off using a table grinder and a vice.
Take care not to grind the axle…as soon as you see sparks you’re grinding hard steel.
Proceed with caution and don’t rush when you get close to the axle.
It’s totally doable and easier than I was expecting.
Use a hand file to create the square ends needed for the motors and for rounding off the edges here and there.
I’m a biker. (used to be)
I got the idea how to connect the hub to the motor from a motorbikes rear wheel “cush-drive”.
I used “pro” squash balls as they are the smallest and fit the best. Cut into equal quarters.
I used the same bolts from the motor adapters. I didn’t tighten them all the way down as the head goes through the rubber easily. As the bolts are not tight…you’d think they would vibrate out? the rubber from the squash ball prevents this. It’s so simple that I had my doubts but it totally works…really well.
Pre drill the holes in the rubber to prevent ripping. Drill a smaller hole than the bolt for a tight fit.
It’s lost the skate feel that I’m after, but it turns and carves amazing. The trampa Gummies grip insanely but don’t free roll like a skate wheel does. I need to be on the power all the time which is not what I like.
It’s the reason I’m sticking with hubs or direct drives as they free roll like a normal deck does.
I’m not giving up yet though.
Trampa make 10mm skate trucks. Hardened hollow steel axle.
I can use trampa adapters so the 12mm motors fit tight on a 10mm axle, this will allow me to use the Caguamas that I had planned to use all along as there are bearings that fit a skate wheel and a 10mm axle.They had the best feeling and complimented the motors 58kv better, these trampa hubs have killed the torque obviously and the increased top end is something I don’t care for. I want to skate and do tricks, you can’t do anything at 28mph except go straight, hold on and pray you don’t crash, not my deal.
I ride my trucks loose AF, I live between 15mph and 20mph.
I have shared all my ideas and findings with Kenna but for some reason they are adamant that the un hardened axles are adequate, they’re not. I bent mine in 2 hours of riding (only two battery charges).
After three weeks of explaining and whatsapping I’m offered the exact same axle with no changes.
My wheel choice is not the reason these soft axles are bending, it’s the softness. I promise.
Dude this is so awesome. DIY at its best. I am concerned though about your turning with those trucks, as they’re meant to be on a board with angled ends from what I know.
I’ve gone in a different direction, when I was designing my ABEC hub adapter I added a support bearing in the adapter to help support the axle and reduce the cantilever.
