18 teeth on stator, 20 magnets, ring under magnets to “help” hold magnets in, no evidence of epoxy holding in magnets, flat magnets, definitely NOT curved magnets, slight miss-alignment of magnet spacing, no evidence of can balancing.
@torqueboards
Stator size: 53.5mm dia x 43mm long
Motor can is 66mm dia. x 70mm lg
front bearing 6902Z (wheel side) 28mm x 15mm x 7mm
rear bearing 6805 2RS (hanger side) 37mm x 25mm x 7mm
20 magnets 43mm x 8mm
Can you give a gist of how you opened up the motors and what tools you used. Almost nearing 600km and one of the motors started making noise. I put in the speed oil(a bearing lubricant) and the noise vanished, so I am pretty sure it’s the bearings. I want to get them replaced but now sure how to open them.
on mine, this was a freshy from Kenna, I just got it this afternoon as a replacement. it was actually pretty easy/peasy… 6-3mm flat-head hex screws, the screws were tight, but NOT lock-tighted, I simply used a 2mm hex wrench titanium coated hex driver and loosened them all up, and then backed the screws out in a star pattern.
As I got near the end, the motor can end “popped open” In one pick above you can see a wavy (spring-washer) between two thrust washers. I then took out a nut driver roughly equal, however smaller, in diameter as the front (drive-side) bearing and slowly pressed the center section, stator and bearings from the can.
When I could get a hand around the stator, I just pulled it out… pretty easy, assembly wasn’t much more difficult.
my “guess” from memory and looking at the can, is about 55mm dia x 50mm long… Actually 53.5mm x 43mm
I’ll measure the stator for reals, for science, tomorrow and edit my above post…
Motor can is 66mm dia. x 70mm lg
This motor looked at first blush to be terminated 58kv in WYE, what’s everyone’s thoughts on re-terminating one in DELTA and running one 58kv and one 70kv motor?
Rode it for a while until my charge port decided to fry one side of my 4.20+.
No more issue with axle. It’s dangerous to ride with 97 on SF shitting roads. Everything the can bottom out, the Vesc faults and free roll.
I don’t “think” that would work… the Caliber trucks you posted are RKP trucks I believe… you need a TKP baseplate…
What I found out that works very well is run DKP (stock eLofty) trucks up front, and take out the middle king pin piece on the rear and it all fits together! Rear then ends up something like a 35 degree truck, so you’re running essentially 50/35 split angle trucks!
Super turny/carvy up front, stable and not speed wobbly in the rear.
Took this video a long time ago when I realized my 3D printed hub broke(has been strengthened since). But what’s interesting is that you can hear the birds in the background. So damn silent!
first of all, tighten and locktite every nut/bolt/and screw you can find on the motor(s) mine came completly lose and none were locktight. one motor came apart at the can a couple of days ago that was 1km old.
Great share btw 
