Yep that’s what I said Jujo in PM, removing the can seems too much, and I glued my rear can cap when it unscrewed back then.
I’ll hammer it tomorrow
Anyone having another solution, let me know!
Cheers
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I’ll take mine apart tomorrow with photos. Idk if I’m going crazy or if it’s the cheap street crack
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It’s all the hamburger sandwiches.
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This is the only photo I have without me eating something and isn’t about cats
Sounds like a Iwonder wheel’s name 
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What I use now is a gear-puller…
But what I did before the gear puller was a little less elegant… Take everything off including the big nut holding the motor on… The motor is then pressed onto the axle at only at the center of the hanger.
Grab 2 sacrificial 8mm nuts, what I prefer is one standard nut on the inside and a nylock nut on the outside. tighten and lock the two nuts together at the end of the axle with the nylock hanging off, not engaged with the threads.
Grab a plastic dead-blow hammer… Use your big boy strong manly hands to grab the motor can firmly and progressively whack on the nuts on the end of the axle… what you want to happen is; the board is off the ground slightly, and by holding the can firmly you want to drive the axle downward and thru the motor releasing it from the axle…
Work up, slowly, to some manly whacks if you need to, but usually, a couple of firm whacks with the dead blow hammer will loosen the motor from the axle… whack once and check if it moves… what you want to avoid is everything coming loose at once… whack…check… if the can moved a bit… reduce the next whack… ease the can off the axle…
Usually, I hold the board perpendicular to the ground and whack down on the axle… the gravity of the board helps somewhat in over-coming the tight fit of the axle…
I’ve never damaged a motor or the axle threads removing a motor in this way and I’ve done it quite a few times…
I always had a bad feeling whacking on the motor can with a hammer… But yes, I’ve stood on an upside down board and gently whacked alternate sides of the back of the motor can with a plastic dead-blow hammer… I grimaced each time I did it… but I have friends that needed help…
remember when you’re doing all this whacking about… you’re an artisan not a blacksmith… but if the can won’t move… go medieval on it…
YMMV
and hope this helps…
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Thks professor Kook that’s a great advice 
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Sometimes… Yes sometimes the big motor nut crushes down the stator support around the big threads on the axle…check that first. If that has occured some EXTRA persuasion fom the plastic dead blow hammer may be needed… After the motor is off you can use a sharp tool to remove any burrs left on the stator support… And in some circumstances I’ve had to add a washer to get the motor to tighten up effectively… When you get the motor off let me know…and I’ll tell you how I reinstall and center the motor on the axle… Hahaha
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oh yeah… when the motor can is off… throughly lube the bearings!!! a lubed bearing is a happy bearing… I use anti-fling motorcycle chain lube… it’s what I have and what works…
don’t use wd-40 it will wash the existing grease from the bearings, and don’t use a light oil like sewing machine oil… it’s worthless…
use a lube/grease that has a propellant that will allow capillary action to draw the lube into the bearing…
cheers…
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Thanks again 
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Hi guys,
my wheels dont fit all the way to the end, there is a gap about 2mm in between the motor can and the wheel.it is also no symetrical, one wheel will go further than the other, so i am using an speed ring in the inner part of the axel(between motor and wheel) only in one side to compensate.
Im using zealous ceramic bearings with built in spacers. if i remove the one in the back, i can perfectly fit the wheel. Should i change the bearings so i can remove the spacers?These are great bearings, but they are limited by the crap ones inside of the motor so i can go for cheapper ones. i dont think using only the outter bearing so the wheelcan fit is a good idea. Should i leave the 2mm gap?
Anyone else having this problem?
thanks !
Mine have a slight gap on both sides. Hasn’t been a problem.
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The machining on these is pretty weak in general. Nothing to worry about.
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Thank you guys!
I’m planning a build with the DD kit from boundmotor. Read several experiences of the Kegel adapters they provide failing.
Has this been fixed?
These seem like pretty good DD units for the price.
They might have changed in the newest ones that have the grooved cans, but yeah, a friend broke a few of the bound motor kegel adapters.
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What is the overall suggestion on them
Worth it or not?
Just got my new @BOUNDMOTOR kit. Only 1 pivot cup is missing. Looks good so far, only concern are the motor wires. The wires are just the stator wires with a sleeve on it, no silicon wire. Do not know if that is common with most direct drive setups?
Here are some picures 
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Mine have the same wires. That’s just what they decided to do. You can get pivot cups from riptide or evolve.
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Maybe best to upgrade the bushings and cups anyway.
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