This is the way. Routing decks is asking for trouble.
I also agree that braid should be avoided.
I’ve never had any issue with long phase wires but i’ll be fucked if every time i’ve extended sensor wires i haven’t lost my sensors soon after.
I don’t know what it is, I’ve never had the patience to troubleshoot it, but i’ve extended sensor wires quite a few times now and every single time i’ve ended up just running sensorless.
Ok, a few things has been decided… No braid, long is good…
Unfortunately no routing deck is a no no for me… It looks so ugly those wires, so I will give it a try. We will se how it goes…
Thanks everyone for the inputs, it helped a lot.
If you insist on routing the deck, I would highly suggest fiberglass over the wire when you’re done, this can add some strength back in a way that retains flexibility. It makes maintenance all but impossible though.
Yup, already did it that way before, thanks.
I’m currently running 4 phase wires and sensors extensions. So far no issues yet… though it had only been a couple months.
I am certain that my sensor issues were 100% skill issue on my part 
I’d wager soldering 6x 18AWG is a skill issue for most people, especially if using connectors as an intermediary like an LP20 or something. Such thing wire and so little insulation it’s bound to fuck up somewhere.
Instead of extending I’ve had better results just installing longer wires to the motors.
Not skill. You were just being extra…
A bit too extra…
Always
To be fair, I didn’t do my sensors extensions. I had my unpaid worke- I mean friend @Pecos did it for me.
This is insane amount of frustration to remove print and fiberglass layer, but she is a beauty beneath.
Enough for today, my hands hurt.
Looks amazing! I don’t know if i’ve ever seen a nude haero before, this is epic!
Yup, too bad it won’t stay this way, but for this kind of build I am not that sorry since most of it will be covered with enclosure and bindings.
But my next build will be all naked wood.
As I mentioned before, this will be strictly black&white build, fluid themed. So i did a little fluid simultions as a rough sketch. Idea is that fluid follows the hardware installed on the deck…
Looks cool so far.
Ok the enclosure is done, hopefully. Waiting for fillament to arrive as well as aluminium heatsink… Here is the plan:
Most of the parts will be inserted during the prints. Nuts, heatsink and washers on top. This way it should all be much stronger. Aluminium shoud carry most of the load as well as cool those ESCs.
It will be printed in PETG CF, but I will also try Nylon CF.
This is where the first 3D print pause will be so I can insert an aluminium heatsink. Both stormcores will be screwed into this once done with some thermal paste on bottom to have better cooling.
Then a "Shelf goes over it to support battery. There is also a 2 pin pogo connector on both bottom and top part of enclosure so we do not have wires to power the LED strip above.
Top side of the enclosure will have a cutout and a 3mm flange to install a LED strip to shine trough the resin. Once LED is installed I will pour resin to fill the whole flange and cutouts.
And voila… Once done it will be skinned to match the design of the board (Work in progress)
So some things to consider:
PROS:
CONS:
Have a nice day
Strongly recommend you glue all nuts into the print. In my experience, inserting metric nuts into prints is kinda begging for them to spin in their pockets because they have such a small diameter relative to their screw size. Adding some superglue or whatever will help to lock them in place and spread the load more completely.
Other solutions to this problem is square nuts (more engagement with the print) or hex thread stand-offs (basically using them like a really tall nut). The downside to these is you’ll need to use loctite cus they dont have nylock versions.
Particularly because it looks like you’re inserting nuts permanently where they wont be serviceable, I really think you should consider what happens if a nut strips out and cant be replaced.
Hey, thanks for reply. To be honest first thing I did was to test print those nuts to see how well they hold. With 4 walls with 0.6 nozzle in PLA those things are rock solid. I almost bent my hex key while testing.
But anyways a drop of glue or epoxy cant be bad so I’ll do that once printing the final version.
I’d be slightly concerned about how little protection that box will offer in the event of a crash… it seems awfully snug, thin walls and no room for padding… protection seems low.
There is room for 2mm foam all around, battery size in design has it included… Hopefully will be enough. Cant make it bigger, my printer is 250mm wide, and the enclosure is, well 250mm wide at the moment 
Haha i understand the print bed limitation all too well.
Hopefully you just never crash bad enough for it to matter!
