Looks ace!
4 Likes
It already goes quickly with the small wheels 
Not quite found the sweet spot yet with this setup, I start to get some wobbles over 25 Ish.
I don’t really plan on going off road that much, I just wanted better ride on shit country roads. I went for the 6.5" so that I could run high PSI and get better range. But I have clipped the gearboxes on a few curbs and man hole covers and things so I am considering switching up the 8" Street tyres. I don’t need the extra speed and would rather not lose torque but maybe the ground clearance would be worth it.
I would make some strong PE bash guards for the drive and do not worry about impacts to much.
8" is a big difference, but the 6.5 urban treads do look sexy on your board.
On the driven wheels I would not go crazy with PSI. They wear out faster if you pump them up to solid.
30 PSI is nice. Inner bearing shields can be removed, wash out the bearings in petrol and use speed cream. Makes a big difference in rolling resistance. Also perfect counter balancing of each wheel makes a difference in your ride. As soon as find a minute, I will make some printable concave wedges. I will share them online.
Where are you located in the UK BTW?
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Wow. This is as refined as it gets. Great job.
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Printable concave wedges for what? To go on top of the deck? Could be cool.
I live in North Wiltshire at the moment but I’m originally from Dorset.
With regards to PSI I’m a big guy and 30 PSI seems way soft. Feel like running a psi that low it would be possible to damage these beautiful rims 
Also fancy swapping to the barrel dampers but I’m worried they will be way too soft fit a heavy rider.
Long? Yes. Too long? Fuck no. I enjoyed every last bit of that and kudos for the nice, clean presentation and an awesome pair of boards.
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Have you seen the magic spray x something? RC helicopter flying up and down into a fish tank
This stuff, maybe @b264 knows more
http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html
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Beautiful board and even better build quality and organization, congrats
But the star for me is the seal for the motor wires, I may steal that if you don’t mind
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great perfectionist builds, theres no good emoji for it but imagine a hat raiser 
The motor wire seal is something that i was struggling to find a good solution for and i was not happy to just stick loads of massive glands on the back. I hope that this is a better solution for most boards.
Feel free to steal it
. . .You can even have my files if you want them
https://a360.co/2WRIQWE
I think its all driven from the one sketch so it should be easy enough to change wire diameters and spacing if you need to. The laser cut silicone part is just the the same as the inner face but with all the hole sizes reduced a little. If you dont have a laser cutter or silicone sheet then a piece of inner tube cut by hand should do a good job.
And if you do make something similar make sure to post it back here
3 Likes
Thanks a lot
Definitely a good solution when you want a one piece enclosure
I’m currently planing in modifying a @BigBen enclosure with a 3D printed that section that will house everything, charge port, battery leds, motor wire (MT60+GX12 6 pin), to make it look nice will be a pain, model the board plus the enclosure to make it integrate seamlessly
If that doesn’t work your solution it is
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I tried that. It’s dog shit. Don’t use CorrosionX in esk8. At all. period.
In fact, if I can find it and if you pay for shipping, you can have mine. But I think I threw it away.
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Did not know, I use ACF50 which is a corrosion inhibitor and it really helps staving of rust on my MC in a salty environment.
@ducktaperules maybe the acrylic and urathane MG Chemical treatments would be helpful, available from mouser and farnell, plenty of thread content in the other place, would be nice to have here @b264
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I really need to make a waterproofing thread, don’t I?
I think of all the three, probably the MG Chemicals acrylic conformal coating in the 55ml brush-on bottle is the best, if you’re only going to get 1 bottle.
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It’s true you do, you are the waterproofing guy. Copy and paste from the n threads in the other place and make tour mark sir.
Thanks
Great documentation… That was a long post but I enjoyed it very much… Really nice build too… Congrats on the house too… Happy riding my friend
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just read this entire thread. Wow, what a build and definitely my favourite one of the year so far. Everything looks so clean and tidy and in it’s proper place. The solutions to micro problems stack up so the end result is nigh on perfect. It’s details like this which make some builds stand out over others and I take my hat off to you sir !
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Please do. I see a lot of mistakes and misinformation in this area.
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I was reading and was wondering if @b264 will approve of these methods… You should definitely do a post on water proofing
1 Like
THE GEAR DRIVE UPGRADE
So whilst i have been riding my board and enjoying It greatly i have had a few minor issues with my gear drives, the main one being that they were SUPER LOUD. you can hear what it sounds like in this video of yesterdays ride to our local pub. This noise is accompanied by some feeling of high resistance in the drives and awful range.
Now i know that i have a tendency to over tighten nuts, belts, gears and anything else that i don’t know the correct tension for. After originally building the drives i had suspected that they may have been to tight but having never ridden, heard or even seen a set of gear drives in person i had no point of reference as to what they are supposed to be like. Decided that i would just ride them for a while in the hope that they may “bed in” or something.
Then after a few miles / few tens of miles you get complacent and are having to much fun and it starts to become a “later job”. doesnt matter if its loud right cause you can still ride it and you can just fix it when you get the time.
THE CATALYST
This week i passed the 100 mile point on the board and there was still no reduction in the noise level so i figured they must be to tight and they are not going to bed in any further. I decided that this week i would make the time to open the drives and take another shot at setting the motor position correctly.
Then i got an PM from Audrius @3DServisas:
"I have a new lubrication for my gearboxes.
Do you want to test?"
I was already taking the gearboxes apart and would be easy to re-grease them so i agreed 
Before i knew it grease was on its way.
Then i noticed another message sitting in my inbox containing some awesome STL’s for some new “FatBoy SS HD bumpers”. They are small printable parts to stop the gearboxes getting scratched with my low profile tyres. Got them on print over night so that i could fit them at the same time.
STRIP & CLEAN
First job is to strip the gearboxes down and clean everything. 100 Miles on the road makes things surprising dirty.
Outer case is cleaned and removed from the drive to reveal the state of the gears and grease 100 miles in.
looks like my DIY keyway has been rubbing on the casing. Better green-locktight that in place on both drives before i rebuild.
After cleaning away all the old grease we can see the state of the gears. To be honest, after 100 miles of being over tightened and pushing a 280lbs gorilla i was worried that i may have done some damage but the gears still look brand new.
CORRECT PRESSURE
Before making any changes i made sure to take some video for comparison. This is what the naked gears sound like sounds like when you have them way to tight. What was i thinking?
I had followed the guide and used a piece of paper to get the spacing correct however the first time around i had applied pressure to the motor when tightening the bolts.
This causes the motor shaft and bearings to move slightly and apply large forces to the gears. i should have applied that pressure to the gear directly.
This lets the motor shaft and bearings sit in their natural position whilst tightening the bolts.
WHAT A DIFFERENCE
LUBE & REBUILD
Time to fill the gearbox with Audrius new secret sauce, applied liberally as instructed.
Replace the case and Stainless seal plate.
Bolt on the New Drive guards
Save some lube to apply under the V-ring seal.
Replace V-ring seal and clean off any excess.
Finally replace wheel.
Oh . . . and repeat all that for the other drive.
THE RESULT
Its incredible. I now understand why gear drives are becoming so popular. The gearbox is smooth and quiet. Im back to being able to coast again. im also having to get used to needing my breaks again when i want to slow down on hills. But feel free to judge for your self . . .
It might not come across in the video because i think its doing some sound automatic sound levelling but this is orders of magnitude quieter. It seems like the sound of the motors has become the main sound that can be head whilst riding.
Whilst cruising at constant speed my board is about the same volume as my friends belted boosted board but the difference seems to be that the volume of his belt drive depends on his speed whilst the volume of the gear drive depends on the power im applying. let off the power to coast and the board becomes almost silent, even at speed. But when you decide to rip it up you mostly just hear the electric whine of dual 6880’s pumping out a couple kilowatts of power.
Before i was questioning if the gear drives were worth it but after these adjustments im 100% convinced. They are better than my old belt setup for both feel and performance. Plus i know that they will probably outlast my motors and i never have to worry about belts breaking at the exact time i need my breaks the most.
I guess with the printed bumpers only time will tell how they will hold up but they have already saved me from a few more scratches.
17 Likes