if it were as simple as a cheap switch and a resistor, why do you think everyone doesn’t use one?
this is a schematic of a proposed anti-spark…
you want cheap and effective and almost fool-proof? use an XT90s loop key like 99% of us do…
linked above…
I hope this helps
Properly rated power relays are expensive AF tho :(.
Hmm still not,
Lets leave a side for a moment my drawing and use the XT90S as the reference.
Lets assume Im half plugging it so the circuit is closed with resistor in series… (For a long time)
Resistor of ~5ohm in series with capacitor
At initial moment, capacitor’s resistance (impedance) is zero, so total resistance is 5 ohm, so lets assume we have 40v, thats 8amps flowing…
Moment later, capacitors are loaded, so current is less than 8amp…
It starts with 8A and goes down to 0A in a charging time of 5tau where tau is RC so 5ohm times 220uF times 5tau, we get total charging time of ~5ms
After 5ms current is zero in the RC circuit
sorry I tried my best…
I’d suggest you PM @professor_shartsis he is much better at explaining things than I am
good luck
I just realized I’ve put a wrong link
This is the one I was looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/DaierTek-Toggle-Switch-Automotive-Position/dp/B07SN7BY8V/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=50a+toggle+switch&qid=1581496394&sr=8-5
Thanks for pointing out the terminology of SPST and SPDT… its now easier to find one
Effort is much appreciated man! Thanks!
apologies, you need a SPTT (single pole triple throw). So basically any point on the switch connects the input to your selected throw.
This means one input and 3 selectable outputs. Output 1 is to nothing, being off. Output 2 is through your resistor, and output 3 is straight to the load.
I honestly think this would work as long as there’s no load on the resistor. I don’t see it being any different functionally as an XT90S. As long as you do like a quick flick past the resistor straight to the output 3,it should be enough to precharge the capacitors (correct me if I’m wrong @b264 @kook )
honestly I’m over it…
There are easier and cheaper ways to accomplish the same thing…
and more expensive ways to accomplish the same thing…
I dislike having user intervention causing a failure state
the resistor will heat up if left in that state other than momentarily
I particularly hate designed in failure states
Because if the fuse blows, you will have a mighty spark destroying other things. Also antispark are kinda designed to take huge, albeit extremely brief, amounts of current
If that fuse blows then the switch will probably weld closed next time you try to use it
Agree with all this, but you’d have to experiment also. Add about 10 millifarads and try it on that, I think most ESCs have about 1 - 2 mf per motor so if it works with 10 then it should be golden
seems legit!
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