Try it. its not just SPC of course your getting 2 sheilds and the best insulation options as benifit. it worked for me. cheap wholesale effective. (and normally its not cheap so at normal prices id agree its overkill without a doubt, but it does DIRECTLY impact cooling direct drives, which was his title.
Side note paste on axles helps a bit.
The stock wiring job on motors might not be the best to begin with so it’s possible you cleaned up something that was wrong. I haven’t checked the temperature of my wires but unless they heat up I’m not sure it would help? Maybe in some really heavy transients but really it would be starving the motors of power and not translate to heat in the motor? I could see the sensor cables benefitting from nice shielded silver wires maybe. This could be good for an objective experiment that I’m too lazy to do myself right now.
I’ve been going full throttle on my setup all my rides so far the paste really cut down on throttling but I don’t think I can escape the physics of it.
Your regering to poor mans silver coated wire
Im regering to silver plated wire. Very different wire
Looking at the resistance of electroplated silver wire vs regular copper it’s very very close
http://www.spcproducts.in/silver-plated-copper-wire.html
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amp/copper-wire-d_1429.html
I don’t know what you are meaning by insulation
Yeah I mean MUCH higher spec wire, Indeed that wire is crap 
I cant link such items as they arent offten publicly sold
What I can do is Splice one of the wires (needs to be done for a project) then i can take some pics/make some measurements hopefully that should help show what im talking about.
(keep in mind i fully agree that its really not a viable option for the motorwindings as most will fail like what maybe 3/10 would survive QC in a mass production situation.)
I cant deny the benifits from the phase wire swap though. (it does all depend on what your stock is) sometimes the improvent gains are marginal.
This has me thinking… The heat is produced in the wires right?
If this special SPC wire is able to wick heat significantly better than plain old tinned stranded copper, or not, the heat would be wicking back to the ESCs.
What if we used liquid metal thermal compound as a thermal interface material inside our bullet connectors and sealed them up good with the waterproof heatshrink to improve thermal transfer from the motor wires to the ESC phase wires?
Silicone rubber is a thermal insulator… Is there an equivalent strength shielding in existence that is a thermal conductor? Ideally our phase wires could be coated in thermal conductive, but not electrically conductive materials, then we could heatsink the phase wires themselves … That combined with liquid metal TIM for each bullet connection, that might make a measurable impact.
TIM between the motors/hangars, statorade in the motors to wick some heat to the cans, cool the phases themselves… Hmm… Water-cooling the phase leads mmm.
why not use the silver for the windings where it would be most beneficial with greatest conductivity for a given space. For the leads could just use a slightly larger gauge copper and would be even more conductive.
elec insulators are also thermal insulators. I had thermally conductive silicone I insulated wires with but it was weak and not very thermally conductive.
At this rate, go all out and make gold cable phases 
Copper itself carries enough heat away if given the chance, just need to maximize thermal patch toward a cooled area somehow.
A big heatsink on pcb backside at phase terminal point on esc can help shave more heat down.
Cooling fins on the motor, ferrofluid if your can is sealed and you add airflow to the rotor, aluminum press against windings, thermal paste everywhere… You guys already know how to cool down these things. Heck you can go full retard and planetary/epycicloid/whatever gearbox it.
There’s a problem either with your motor or your ESC or both if despite all of this you still cookin’!
@hummieee not talking about your motors, I’m talking motors in general.
dropping the wheel diameter by ~30% will give half as much motor heating, and increasing the voltage by 30% will give the original top speed.
also going from 2wd to 4wd will drop the heating per motor to 1/4th, so in combination with reducing the wheel diameter by 30% and increasing the voltage by 30% to get the original top speed, you end up with 1/8th the heating per motor.
Just run liquid coolant though the phase windings themselves. Use tiny copper pipe for the windings. Remove the heat at the source.
I think it’s illegal to sell such a thing and there’s electrical standards about how close conductive stuff can be to other conductive stuff but it would be easy to press the stator further along the bearing tube and against the aluminum wall at the end. The magnets wouldn’t be lined up w the stator and you’d have to move them too but be then heat transferred from the bearing tube to the motor mount.
Isolation can be preserved, diamond powder + copper powder or even diamon powder + carbon powder + resin/thermal paste/dielectric silicon as interface is what we’d be seeking, this plus the regular enamel on windings will allow isolation, it’d be similar to potting from the side.
I sometimes press the winding against the motor case wall with a layer of kapton maybe between. I talked to the sellers of msw magnet wire and they said they form their square wire after adding the insulation. The wire is very formable without damaging the insulation. Could crush the windings against the aluminum wall. Only time I shorted from doing that is in the strands that are forced onto an edge as they come out to become the leads.
Indium low melt metal I got thinking I’d sink the windings within it and form a conductive path. It’s soft enough to not damage but super expensive. Never actually did it and just bought it. The indium mixed with even a smidgen of copper is much cheaper but also much harder and would likely be a problem.
I have some plated #22 but thats probs only good for the sensor wires, good for running long ones maybe.
Pure silver wire can’t be any more than about 8%-10% more conductive than pure copper. Since the silver plating, of any quality or thickness, is just a tiny percentage of the total mass of the wire the plating can only make a very small difference in the overall resistance of the wire.
These are the limits of the fundamental physics involved.
If you are sure your wire is better than this though then I have an offer for you…
I have a calibrated micro-ohmmeter, BK Precision 2840. Send me a length of this wire you speak of and I’ll measure its resistance and directly compare that against an equal length of copper wire of the same gauge.
Wire_Mooch
Where are you based as my supplier is Stateside. Hoping the same for you
His profile says Manhattan
