f*ckin finally got this out…continuing the CFOC3 convo in the new thread.
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I’ve got a CFOC2 hw ver 0.9 that just failed. I’m getting DRV fault: GVDD_UV (which I believe is under-voltage on the GVDD pin of the DRV8301; pin 13). Unfortunately, I’m not sure whether the voltage on that pin comes from within the DRV8301 or externally. Based on the schematic (only a couple of capacitors tying that pin to Gnd), it would seem that the voltage on that pin is internally sourced.
Just to get it out of the way, I erased the flash and reflashed the bootloader and firmware. This didn’t fix it. I just now tested the FETS in-circuit with an ohm-meter. Two FETs (the one with the temperature sensor and the one directly above it) have very low impedance readings (from 0 to 3 ohms) across any combination of pins. When I test these same FETs in-circuit on a good board, I get more typical readings (like 4.68Kohm). So I’m guessing these two FETs really are dead.
So first question… does that make sense to anyone here? Dead FETs could give a GVDD_UV fault?
Second question… does anyone have any of these FETs they’d be willing to sell me, or know of a good source for them in the U.S.?
Thanks!
RC
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It could be that you are measuring a short through the DRV and not the FET. I have been fooled like this before. Maybe best to desolder the FET and then measure it to be sure.
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Something is causing the voltage regulator that is used to drive the MOSFET gates to go too low. Yes maybe the dead MOSFETs you measured are causing it.
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Thanks guys. It did occur to me that I might have to remove the FETs to give them a fair test. I’ll do that today. I’ve already ordered new FETs. I’m sure hoping that’s it since FETs are both available and easy to replace. DRV’s - not so much.
Shaman, I had found the except you quoted, but only kind of understood what it was saying.
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Good news… After removing the FETs, they still show effectively shorts between all leads. I do have a question though…
The bom specifies: NCEP60T20’s
But what I find on the board are: SE60210’s
I’m guessing that’s just the LCSC equivalent. Sound right?
LCSC is just a distributor. It wouldn’t have a brand name equivalent just like Mouser wouldn’t have Mouser-brand MOSFETs.
The SE60210 are just whatever the builder used.
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Hmmm… I was the builder on that one (I’m pretty sure). I ordered from LCSC whatever was in the BOM.
You think there will be any issue with using these on two of the channels and the NCEP60T20’s on the other?
Recently had to finish couple of more units. Couple of links on my previous post died including 5.2 firmware that is lost to time. Luckily had it in my archives. Here is how to set up old CFOC2 0.9 as 1.0 (this tutorial also works for 1.0 units just ignore resistor and capacitor fix) and program using Jlink on nucleo board without using cube IDE. If there are any things that could be set better in utility, let me know.
- To convert 0.9 unit to 1.0 unit follow instruction here:
-
Cheap-FOCer-2/guides/upgrade at Developer-Branch · shamansystems/Cheap-FOCer-2 · GitHub
In nutshell, desolder resistors R65 and R64 and replace them with 10Kohm resistors. I had 0402 size resistors and those worked just fine aswell. - Solder a ceramic 220N capacitor between On/Off switch leads like this:
again size doesn’t matter.
- Programming (It is assumed you did the diode, short circuit and other tests before)
- Download ST-link utility here (needs registration): STSW-LINK004 - STM32 ST-LINK utility (replaced by STM32CubeProgrammer) - STMicroelectronics
I prefer it over cube programmer due to how lightweight it is, if you prefer STM32CubeProgrammer then use that instead, adjust settings accordingly. - Update stlink on your nucleo board by going to ST-LINK > firmware update
- Use breadboard wires to connect nucleo to stlink. Stilink has pinout like this:
However to use it you have to remove couple of jumpers. Make sure your jumper layout is same as here:
- Pins you need to connect are:|
VCC-3.3v
SWCLK - SWCLK
GND - GND
SWDIO - SWDIO
Do not connect nrst, in this instance chip reset is done with SWD pins. - In stlink utility go to Target > settings and set settings as follows
You can change programming frequency to higher if you wish like 4Mhz, but 100Khz seems to be more reliable - In stlink utility Open following file:
VESC_default.bin (384.0 KB)
This is 5.2 firmware that works on latest 5.2 vesc tool. It should also not throw out ‘‘old esc firmware’’ error on both 5.2 vesc tool and vari-ESC tool
7.In stlink utility, with open VESC_default.bin windown go to Target > Program & Verify…, set settings as follows:
Click start and wait, it should take about 1-2 minutes. Once done, wait 10 seconds, then power cycle. Afterwards 3 lights should pop up on vesc, now you can connect VESC to USB and change settings accordingly.
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Hello, where I get one of these ?
I’ve just burnt mine 
Peace
“Replace resistors R64 & R65 with 10k ohm resistors. Easy peasy!”
Yes easy, as long as you can source the resistors without have to buy a billion of them. Does anybody on here have a cache of these resistors they’d be willing to sell me some from?
I have 10+ 0.9 focers that need them. (Along with a drv swap lol). I hope to use two of em for my upcoming build so any help would be appreciated to the MAX!
Cheers
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A bit late to the party, but you can source specific amount from retailers like digikey or farnell in EU. The manufacturer can be anyone as long as resistance is matching. Also if you have smaller resistors you can solders on larger footprint aswell with a few tries. Good luck!
An example: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/chip-resistor-surface-mount/52?s=N4IgTCBcDaIIwAYDWACBA2BBmEBdAvkA
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/vishay-dale/RCA060310K0FKEAHP/6561243
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Thanks for the response! Managed to find a decent little kit on Amazon that has everything I need for a good price. Actually gonna be dressing up my .9’s pretty quick. I’ll report back here once finished. 
I REALLY hope it fixes the cut outs. I wanna trust these focers lol
Sadly it didn’t for me. If i hit the throttle very sharply cutout will happen even with very little current present in the moment. Sometimes it also throws non descriptive “Faul_DRV” message. However from what I understood v1.0 firmware at least doesn’t shut off esc when DRV fault happens, instead it does cutout and continues as normal.
@shaman did you managed to figure out what was the issue with 0.9 and older units having rare but seemingly unexplainable cutouts even under low motor amps and where they fixed on v1.0 pcb?
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I think it was a funky batch of drv’s and some FW problems. If you upgrade your 0.9 to be compatible with the 1.0’s you can flash the new FW and from what I understand those problems go away.
I’m going to attempt to swap the drvs on mine with a known good batch and add the two resistors and the cap to each of em.
Does anybody know if that is the solution? What I mean is, has anyone had the 0.9’s cause them the known issues, then upgraded in the above fashion and found the issues to begone? I would really like to hear some testimonies if they exist…
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Does anyone know if I can remap current sense pins? I’m getting the error that says current offset 3 is wrong, replaced most of the components but the MCU - don’t have another one. Is there a way to repurpose some other pin for ADC?
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Have you looked at the open-source code? I would bet it’s pretty straightforward to pick another pin on the MCU. What I don’t know is whether any other pin is broken out for you to use?
There are a couple of unused ADC pins on the COMM port. So I would think you would just update the firmware to use one of them.
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Stock firmware should work as expected. Unless you changed the board itself there shouldn’t be such error in first place.
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If I remember correctly, current sens for phase 3 comes from the op-amp (The DRV takes care of phase 1 and 2 internally)
Check connectivity between mcu and op-amp.
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