Hey,
I want to use the controller with a 13s li-ion battery (54v charged). I understand that some people have done this, but its outside of the specification and thus probably not reliable.
My question is: which components limit the voltage tolarance? I.e. which componets would need to be replaced by slightly more tolerant ones to raise the voltage tolerance from 12s safe to 13s safe?
There is no drop in replacement. Afaik what happens on high voltages is that the DRV chip fries itself. If you want something that’s actually 13S safe, you need a 75V vesc. If you are not using electrical brake, or you are using a very high powered battery (like at least 13S3P P42A or maybe even bigger, you absolutely need a high current pack, that doesn’t sag a lot) than you might get away with it.
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Just got my 2 boards from JLCPCB last week. Yesterday I spent a couple of hours soldering and resoldering those blasted DRV chips. In the end I had to go out and buy some better flux, apparently the one I had from Aliexpress was crap (who would have thought). The instructions on Github were spot on, I started the boards on 11V current limited to 100mA and found one that was drawing the full 100mA and the inductor was buzzing (coil while but a lower frequency than seemed healthy to me), turns out the ground pad wasn’t soldered on properly. Took it off with hot air, resoldered it properly and it started working as expected.
Glad to report both boards flashed and booted without incident! Thank you Shaman for all the work you’ve done on this project. I’ve been using the original Cheap FOCer in my electric scooter for about a year and some, never had a single problem, doing 700w on 10s all day long.
Time to put these bad boys to work as well.
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Cool to see a Cheap FOCer veteran! I’m glad you managed to get everything working!.
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Hey. I have a unity that motors turned fine 6374 battle hardened flipsky. Did a motor test showing a friend how ubset em up amd then right motor stopped turing normal. Took out halls. Works fine. Plug em back in same prob. Silicone is on back of jst connectors so no loose wires. Super confused.
If I were going to hazard a guess, I’d say you’ve got one or more bad Hall sensors, or bad connections to them. Do you have a scope to look at them on with the motor running?
Ummm idk. Is that rhe magnifying glass at.the electronic station??. The wires dont seem broken. Inoulled sleeve back. But idk the difference bewteen hall sensors and jst connectors. Like if i swap out connectors wont it just still not work?.
Doing all the DRV’s by hand?
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Yeah I have hot air so should be doable.
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Cool, looking forward to hear how v1 performs.
I am too. But it sounds like Shaman has some upgrades coming. I suspect I’ll wait for those. Anyone have an idea how soon that will be available?
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Hi! I am currently wiring up my ESCs and I just noticed something. I soldered the COMM port on the same way as it’s shown on this picture.
However, the wiring that I got with my VX1 requires the whole port to be flipped 180 degrees.
I just want to confirm, the connector on this picture is like this? So I have to rewire the JST I got with the VX1, right?
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One more question, should I use a heatsink even if I will only be drawing 6A const 10A peak or maybe even lower?
No, passively cooled is pretty good to 25A~ continuous.
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If I remember right the connector was flipped and the tx/rx were reversed.
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To save some time, it may be easier to just take the plastic part of the connector off without desoldering the pins if you indeed need it to be flipped.
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That’s what I will do. Should I just brute force it off?
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I brute forced it off, was pretty hard to get it off. I had a connector that had RX and TX crossed but it was 8 pin instead of 7 so I took of the servo as well, to make the 8 pin connector fit. I also didn’t put the 7 pin connector housing back. Just out of curiosity, is every connector flipped or only the UART?
Here’s it, just so you can see it’s flipped.
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