Just so I understand - you’re not saying the PNP transistors do any harm; they just don’t help as much as you hoped - is that right? The only down side is the cost? By “getting rid of” them, do you mean replacing them with something more effective, or just nix them to save the cost?
With V1.0 as it stands, would you still recommend it over v0.9?
This may have been asked before, but I couldn’t find it: the resistors of ADC1 and ADC2 on my boards aren’t populated (R72, R73(?), R68, R40). I couldn’t find the types & values in the bom.csv. What resistors do I need? Or don’t I need them to begin with?
On one of my cheap focers the USB port is dead. The vesc tool can’t connect. I can however connect to it via canbus and program it that way, without loosing any functionality. How can i fix this? The USB was soldered on when I got the board. I am good at soldering but I can’t desolder stuff to replace it.
The resistors for ADC1 and ADC2 are “do not populate” by default. If you wish to modify the firmware to take advantage of those ADC channels, you can populate two of the four resistors for either pull-up or pull-down. The schematic recommends 10K resistors, but I’m pretty sure that value isn’t very critical.
you can take it off with hot air or even a soldering iron. Usually I just snip the connector in half carefully, then the leftover bits are easy to remove with a soldering iron. Just be very gentle, you don’t want to pull off the tracer from the PCB.
You could also solder on a scrap female USB cable to the broken one, it’s just 4 connections. Then plug in your normal cable into it for programming.
I have one question regarding usage Cheap FOCer 2 with power supply instead of battery. Application I am planning to use is not a scooter or any kind of transportation device. In my case, I will just use ~1kW brushless with CFOC and potentiometer to adjust speed. 36V PSU will be used. However, I would like to make emergency switch to shut down motor (or VESC). Initially I though of shortening those two pins that switch off CFOC. However, I am not really sure from electronics point of view, what happens, when suddenly VESC is swithced off, but motor is still spinning and slowing down. I will set zero regeneration current in VESC tool, but still where will that energy from the motor (regeneration) will go? Will that zero regeneration current simply cut-off motor and it will spin freely? If not, is there a chance to damage power supply due to excessive voltage increase due to regeneration? My goal is to stop the motor with a push of a button safely.
When switched off, the MOSFETs will go high-impedance (open circuit) but power can still conduct through their body diodes. A little bit of power can still flow from the motor, through the controller, and back into the power source if allowed. This is why one can spin a motor while connected to an unpowered controller and the controller might turn on.
For emergency shutoff, I would build in a low-side breaker or switch between the controller’s DC negative and the power source’s negative. The switch will have to be able to handle the max expected DC amperage though.
Thank you, Shaman. Yes, I was also thinking of cutting negative as a plan B. I got one of these switches as you suggested as well. So I will just go for that negative cut off.
By the way, I was also thinking of implementing shutdown according to sensor data, like if ambient temp is reached then motor is switched off. Do you think, arduino can toggle short of those two pins and stop functioning of the motor? This would be like soft stop, but arduino itself would not control duty cycle as potentiometer would be connected to VESC only.
Yeah a digital device should be able to shut down the CFOC2 through the ON/OFF pins but not directly. I would do it through a small N-channel MOSFET though. The MOSFET should be rated 60V or better. Use the Arduino to control the gate of the MOSFET and have the MOSFET be the one to bridge the Switch pin to ground. Make sure the mosfet can sufficiently be turned on by 5V or whatever the Arduino would be putting out.
Also If the motor doesn’t have a temp sensor, then you could use the motor temp input for the ambient temp measurement. Then the controller itself can manage based on that input.
I thought of using relay for this purpose. I have quite a few of them (5V relays). I now use this setup (with relays) on my scooter. So far it seems to be doing good work.
Anyway, really appreciate your quick answers and help.