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Rebuilt both drives with the new metal secondary gears, did more work on the graphic but am stalled again. Procrastinating by working on other things coping skill activate!
Since i have a spare deck and my spare board is not up to how i ride - going to prep that deck to skin and frit and put the old girl back together in prep and work on other nitty grits
Enclosure swap for Raph didnât pan out - heâs dedicated to the old loanstar of his but the miles are starting to really show. I want to practice on some carbon fiber so im gonna mak an attempt to patch the holes and practice on his enclosure. Cant make it worse right?
Also got ahold of some of @BenjaminF âs ass:
Thanks for that btw. Now to redo the 12v system. Going to get the switches sorted and try to use the aux output of the zmote, as well as a tactical switch on the board. Still thinking on it and need to find a larger sturdier foot switch:
Killed this one, now itâs flush and kinda sucks. Need big buttons
also going to start on swapping out the ennoid bms and put in a jbd 40a bms so i can charge closer to 1c. Probably wonât be able to do better than 35a wrapped up like it will be. the thermal performance should be better and good enough to actually hit the 1700w max of my fast charger⌠which is still far short of 1c but baby steps
Really like this new smaller up to 21s jbd. Used one in the battery i made for MichaelWA and he has been able to do 17a with no appreciable temperature rise. If it workâs well ill drop the money on a dedicated 3500w charger for 18s and really cook it off⌠bad phrasing
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Goodbye enoid, hello jbd
Figured id sneak in a face reveal also
Now do i swap out the 16awg for 12 on the charging leads to the battery now or do i wait and see if future me will actually pull the board apart in the future to upgrade⌠hmmm
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Actually. Future meâs problem. Its 16awg now which should do 20a easy and 40 in a pinch reliably. I will only very occasionally be able or want to charge at such high current and will be in attendance anyway because im not going to put down the cash for a 3000+watt smart charger.
Im going to stick with the lp20 connector also even though an xt60 port is smaller and better. Just ned to print a better cap for it once my spool of petg gets here.
Ok so todo:
Hound my artist for the final digital art so i can get the size and placement.
Prep second deck for reskin and graphics
Tweak riser design and print a new set.
Repin bms header from battery to fit the locking jst
Prep and jumper new bms - swap 10s out for 14/16 depending on how conservative my mood is atm
Maybe repaint enclosure truck bed liner - couple spots are getting that scrapped up look but nothing to the carbon underneath yet. Probably wonât do this
Add external jumper- my throttle/remote issue has me wanting to test at a reduced erpm limit for a bit and I donât trust vesc app to bluetooth in with important settings
Adjust throttle curves to something a bit less conservative on the low end - maybe up the motor amps a smidge.
Finish rebuilding rear trucks and get them setup how i like
Replace big beam mounts with @jack.luis âs design after tweaking scale in petg cf
Adjust 12v and lighting setup: one master on off switch on tail, one secondary remote output for high/low
Thatâs a lot 
gimme a couple weeks
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Iâm heartbrokenâŚ
You said you would quit smoking 
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Better in like 99% of ways but you donât get that satisfying click out of an XT60
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If it had the same functionality but in a 16mm diameter the lp20 would be perfect for me⌠i will have to keep an eye on it as i push higher wattage charge cycles though - if it gets iffy ill swap it out for the old reliable xt60.
Initially i wanted a different connection for different voltage just to keep me from being dumb, might be rethinking that⌠maybe an xt20 4 pin will let me increase the watts idk
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Have you looked into weipu? Iâm using an SA12 to charge the 12s5p you built and they seem to be a more expensive and higher quality option (usually full metal, higher current rating by size, nicer feel IMO)
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Ennoid to jbd swap: im running low on 14awg so the bms gets #12 from scraps in my bin. That means my xt30s are too small. I can kinda fit 14 on an xt30 but it sucks. Using 4mm bullets for the negative charge wires. I hate to use the same connector on the negative as the positive leads if I canât use a polarized connector. I just donât trust myself not to do something dumb if im in distracted which is always so im using cannibalized xt60 bullets for the positive. I have a million old but good connectors in my junk bin and kind like how itâs turning out
Running the battery positive leads and charging connector with the last bits of 14 and putting a modified xt60 on the battery positive to accept single male bullets from the charger port and lights connection. Filled in the key on the xt60f so a male connector doesnât fit anymore.
Replaced the temperature probeâs leads with silicone wire and spliced the thermistor to the new wire. Can decide if i want two battery leads or if i want one battery and one on the fuse leads. I kinda want to keep an eye on the fuse holders temp and move it to the battery if it doesnât give me any helpful info. The fuse holder is cheap crap and if it overheats i want to just swap it to a direct soldered fuse. Im not too concerned but it just seems interesting and want to be able to see the temps without opening the enclosure up.
Good times. Ill do the header connection after i get the thermistors placed and the other connections completed. The faq on the jbd bms (SP22S003A v1.6) shows jumping bc16-bc20 for 18s and also says to connect the b- BEFORE connecting the header and pulling the header first when disconnecting. Did the jumper across the back of the pcb with a cleaned piece of magnet wire but forgot pics.
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dont short the temp probe or you may just blow the IC. Was gluing the probe in where i pulled the old one out but the heat shrink got caught and pushed back. With the epoxy it popped and murdered the bms IC. Dumbassery at its finest - i know better than this. I have a spare so not a big deal im just upset with myself.
Fyi though it does fail it isnât a catastrophic failure so props to jbd for it not doing anything dangerous - was a soft pop noise from the bms then nothing and the tiniest whiff of magic smoke
Going to use a fish paper straw to put the probe in place once i get everything on the new new bms set up
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Ok, sorted out my mistake. New bms is in but not set to its final home yet. Im going to think on the lights for a bit as my first attempt at the distribution and switching im not happy with.
Made a lp20 cap replacement and put that in. Had to print it a few times to get it right but the final product seems pretty good and fits snug. Might replace the lanyard on it with something more like this:
But for now this will do
Going to have a try for a light mount in the same material/color but later. Did a bit more cleaning work on the friends cf enclosure and set up a little test to try and patch. Cleaned then cleaned then dusted then cleaned again. Its still a mess but better. Hit everything with some 120grit and cleaned again. Then cleaned again.
Mixed up a little epoxy and spread it on the drop cloth to see how it kicks off and set a timer. Cut a little patch and now checking the epoxy every 20min to see what it do
The plan is to paint it and let it get tacky, stick the patch and coat it again. Then add another layer. Then put a top coat. Itâs about 65f in the garage so might be a while
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Sweet build, love something that can cover a bit more ground.
Iâm in a similar situation making my cf enclosure in the cold. I usually leave it to cure in the conservatory out of the way but it started reaching <0C.
If it helps you can use masking tape to manipulate the carbon and take it off once the epoxy is cured enough. Not sure if you can once fully cured.
Good luck!
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Thanks for the tip, keeping the weave nice and cutting out small shapes is like trying to carve something out of soap bubbles.
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The quality and sharpness of the scissors makes a huge difference.
I have two dedicated set of scissors that are forbidden to cut any other materials.
These dressmaker shears do not push the fabric out of the way.
https://www.amazon.com/Dressmakers-Scissors-Stainless-Protective-Tailoring/dp/B000UU6SR4/ref=asc_df_B000UU6SR4?mcid=aa70c89d407435ca884ba19df91cf17c&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693312200364&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1172950002358836283&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012299&hvtargid=pla-349461850240&psc=1
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Ha, those are my sheers. I use these also:
Theyâre great for small spaces and are as sharp. The little serrations help keep slippery things from getting walked out of the blades if that makes sense
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Risers are done and ready to be wired up after a few careful holes drilled
Color of the hubbas and the cf petg are such a good match. Makes me happy. Going to use this same color for the primary background color on the graphic, which the line art is done now:
Test colors done with watercolor:
Going to do digital coloring on the line art to get something close to this after i figure out scale and placement
Test carbon fiber patch is kicking off today, if it works well ill do the other holes and cracks in another batch. Just wanted to try a small bit first. I mixed some epoxy and just timed it, starts to thicken at about an hour, wonât flow at about 1.5 to 1.75h. Clean touch tacky at 2.25hrs. And soft set at 3 and will peal up in big chunks. Thatâs workable
Mixed and spilled out the epoxy on my drop cloth so itâs not in the cup and doesnât kick early - probably not a big deal for such a small batch but whatever. Painted the patch area, squeegeed the material and dropped some chopped fiber into the hole to maybe take up some space. Let it rest for about 45 minutes then carefully lifted the patch into place. Gave it a good squeegee and lifted all the extra epoxy out so it doesnât just pool in the corner.
Then at 1.5hs I carefully brushed a little more of the now thicker epoxy on the whole thing and made an attempt to thin it at the edges.
Absolutely need to increase my the masked area around the patch, this was way too small and i kept fighting to keep it contained and aligned. Looks good so far.
Going to pull the masking before it gets tacky so i donât accidentally lift anything while itâs soft but not workable
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Got the rear riser wired up and ready. Its basically two - two stage lights with some mini inline led controlers to make them kinda flutter. Then a switch which will act as the bms output switch and main on off toggle for all the lights. Going to skip the stomp switch as it didnât last and I cant find anything good that would work as a high beam switch. I need something bigger as a latching switch and probably 16mm ish.
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I have a few of those white 3 push button LED controllers.
Iâve found they have a significant parasitic draw when off. They stay warm as long as they are connected to voltage and can get very warm when powering all RGB diodes at more than half brightness.
They are very difficult to turn off by the button, and usually blow past the red when trying to get them red, requiring cycling 19 times to try again.
They will also sometimes randomly change color, or color modes when there are other loads cycling on the battery, and sometimes even a loud noise has had them change colors.
Some other weirdness from them, which is unexplainable, is they have 3 times now chNgex colors the instant somethjng fell off my workbench, was in midair, and i was either moving my foot to cushion the impact, or get my foot out of the way of danger.
They are haunted.
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good to know about the drain, it sucks when off doesnât mean off. These ones only do different strobing modes and are for single color ledâs. unfortunately they dim/flash on the negative lead and the motorcycle taillights i have them connected to have a common negative so the bright/brake ledâs also flutter when i trigger them⌠but thats a problem for future me to sort out. not a big deal imho if i never do.
The reason i went with these was because they have a memory and retain the previous state when powered off, so i only have to set them once and they keep the same on state and flutter settings when i cycle power and dont need to open this up and mess with them. the use case is for a blinker/turn signal flasher replacement i think but im not using them for that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P8CRS8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i will be turning them on and off via the bms output switch that will disable power to the 12v buck. the two blue leads from the tail riser switch will be (assuming it works as planned) connected to the switch contacts on the bms. if it kills the load and stops the parasitic load well enough then ill use an additional accessory switch to turn on the high beams on my ryan lights also. the plan is to trigger with the second channel from the zmote or puckv2 if it ever graduates from vaporware status.
if in use i dont like the ergonomics of the switch - ill disable the bms physical switch and use the app to turn them on or off and set the rear switch to high beams. i just donât want to have to pull out my phone for regular use of the board and liked the process of doing a deep squat/grab to kill or turn on the lights and also alternatively kicking the tail when i jump on to activate the lights. just feels cool. i think i can still charge with the output disabled from the bms though my lights will turn on when im charging unless i change up my wiring. not a deal breaker but might be annoying if Iâm doing stealth charging somewhere like a transit station or in a bar/restaurant⌠didnât think of that until just now 
if i could find a better/bigger/beefier switch - something with a satisficing tactile feel - id swap out the little 12mm latching button. even a rocker switch would be nice but i cant find anything that is up to my standards for mounting and durability yet. i did like the function of the old stomp switch for high beams but it was too fiddley, would take multiple attempts to get it to latch if doing it by foot and broke after in an annoying way - the prominent part of the button just fell off making it a pain to use. need to go to a junk yard and pull the foot switch from an old nova or something
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