I would call that good, but I’ve seen tighter.
I’m just so confused, one side sounds way clickier than the other but they’re setup identically…
The loud one:
The quiet one:
The loud side sounds fine when the larger gear isn’t in place. With both gears in, it starts to click like you hear in the video above. I’ve inspected the gears and don’t see any deformities. Any ideas?
Are you able to remove the motor to test if the GD makes the same noise without the pinion and spur interfacing?
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Not without torching the pinion loose, which I wanted to avoid having to do again 
It doesn’t seem to me like it’s in reference to any specific point in either gear which tells me they’re interfacing okay and reasonably clean. Does it make the same noise if you spin it slowly by hand? Can you find the point where it clicks?
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I can’t seem to even make it click when I rotate it by hand 
Tempted to just close everything up and see how it sounds under load
My guess is that something isn’t fully secured and is wiggling under momentum/centrifugal force, have you triple checked that everything is tightened down?
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The only suspects would be the truck adapter screws, but they all look tight and none seem to be cross-threaded. The truck adapter looks like it’s properly flush on all sides.
This is the same side that I gashed pretty good, it has a gnarly dent on the outside of the case… I wonder if something is slightly warped and causing sounds. I suppose it’s possible it was happening before I swapped motors and I didn’t notice
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Ahhhhh, was this from our mild group ride mishap where you pulled a sick grind on the curb, painting your enclosure yellow from said sick grind? That could be it, can you get a picture of the exterior damage?
Yeah I would be a tad surprised if that was causing it, maybe try putting a little resistance on it and spin the motor to simulate load on it and see if it still does it? I’m entirely spitballing at this point, I have no idea 
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Both of them sound ok to me. The loud one just sounds like you might have some bearings that would appreciate a little grease, but nothing serious.
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I’m with @Shadowfax
These gears aren’t the quietest. For the clamp adapter it shouldn’t be a long bolt. I think it’s like
M4x8 or 10 at most.
Alternatively you can swap the big pulley over to the other side to see if it follows the pulley and bearing.
I don’t believe the bn gears are directional so you should be fine doing that.
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I’ve been having lateral issues with the helical gears and bought some shaft clamps like so:
Has anyone else tried these? I know someone tried thrust bearings but I figured these might be better.
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Anyone else have issues with wheel bolts wearing down due to the way they ‘float’ in the adapter (see pic) - my M4s are more like M3 where they go through the adapter after not that much riding. @Boardnamics is the little bit of play important (thermal expansion or something weird?), or could i put a small sleeve on the wheel bolts? Anyone else got a different fix? Prefer wheel bolts not to be a consumable 
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I replaced mine after a while for the same reason
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I’m working on a design for a new cookie plate which has hex holes for m4 nuts. So you would thread nuts onto the protruding end of each wheel bolt and that nut engages with the cookie plate instead of the threads of the bolt. No clue if that will work or not, but I’m going to try it.
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yeah thats what you want for bn drives
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