If you tap the end of the motor shaft and secure a washer there that will keep the key from moving out, and a spacer between the c-clip and pinion will keep the key from moving in
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huh that’s an interesting idea. I wonder how hard the center of the motor shaft is. knowing me I’d probably end up with a tap stuck in the end of the my motor shaft tho lol.
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Realistically you’re not gonna have much luck, it’s a hardened shaft and you can’t really put it on a lathe unless you remove the shaft from the can
This looks really good, I would love to see someone try this. However, I still dont know that I would trust that Belleville washer to take up the axial loads indefinitely.
Plus, I think the Belleville washer would end up making a ton of noise rubbing against the motor shaft.
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Theoretically it’s only taking loads while applying brakes, otherwise it’s just preloading the bearings so they don’t rattle apart, so I think it should last long as the grease inside
The noise is a good point, maybe a bronze bushing? Flange to the thrust bearing washer and the Belleville washer on the shank
Your circlip is out of the groove. I would disassemble and put a new one back in asap
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The only thing about my BN straight cuts that gives me worry is thinking about my motor key working out somehow eventually. JB weld would do it.
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Busted motor bearing preload wave spring washer.
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Green loctite or even red is more than enough to keep the key in
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I agree. It’s just a paranoia I have about retaining compound.
Technically if you have the drives installed properly it’s impossible for the standard flipsky key to come out at all
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I have chopped super short torqueboard axles. The key would fall right out without retaining compound. I’d have zero paranoia with the flipskys and the mini key
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Ooh haha I see
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I don’t have BN drives, but I also have a situation like this. Would it be crazy to find someone with a tig welder to just put a tiny tac on the end of the keyway to provide a non adhesive based solution? (I’m not saying weld the key in, just use some weld filler to build up a little barrier at the end of the keyway so it can’t come out “axial” with respect to the motor)
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That wouldn’t be crazy, but 638 is a very strong adhesive (urethane methacrylate), and there is not any shear force, so the key shouldn’t actually ever come out.
638 also withstands heat well, so even if I’m burning up my gear drives at 100c, the adhesive is fine.
All that said, I’m definitely opening these drives up in a few months to confirm the key isn’t wiggling it’s way out at all.
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in my case there could be some shear force, so im probably not going to use 638. My main concern with welding or brazing is that I run the risk of damaging the steel since the shaft is probably a fairly high carbon one. in my case the motors can be removed from the drives with the key installed so maybe ill go for a permanent install via jbweld.
E: to clarify, my gears are helical
I have 3000mi on m1 street straights. A key (and pinion for that matter) has never come out. Im not easy on these drives speed or terrain wise.
On disassembly, the key is not super easy to get out.
I think this is a non issue with straight cuts
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not great news for me, i just start running my board with my brand new helical setup and i also spend for a set of 5.2 , also today i noticed a sound at high speed and very diffrent from the normal sound ,i hope its not a premature problem …
High speed noise sounds like a motor thing. Doesn’t hurt to open up the gear drive case and confirm everything looks normal.
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got 60km on 3.95 and around 50 with the 5.2 , tomorow i will take a look , but i think its the bearing
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