any idea what size i’d need for trampa superstars? 
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That superstar spacing could be wrong
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Maybe someone can confirm if this one is correct.
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hey guys.
let’s play what is that Noise!!!
can you have a watch and see if you know what may be causing this clicking?
I had it a little bit the other day but it went away.
on this recent ride it stuck around.
clicking on the right back wheel.
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Check your Backlash or Sounds like something is loose or broken
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Mine started to get noisy so i pulled them apart. My bloody motor gears had come loose and were touching case. Different sound though.
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Have you narrowed it down to motor or GD?
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I have not opened it up yet.
as it is I can’t tell if the clicking is from the motor or the drive…
I will probably crack it open this afternoon.
I have really been loving these drives.
I forgot that the troubleshooting of issues can be a bit hairy… ( or at least time consuming…)
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I’m leaning more towards it’s the motor on this, but yes time consuming for sho!! Good luck with it I hope you get it figured out I hate those weird ghost noises
sometimes I feel this is 50% of what makes up esk8…
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got a bit of play between the drive/truck… is this normal? do I just tighten those screws down? both sides have play
although with the wheels tightened down I doubt it’s this obvious
Wheel nuts gotta be tight, that wont be able to move. It’s the design intent. They’re not supposed to press fit on, theyre just clearance.
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you end up getting this set up? im interested in the same config you had in mind with the kaly tires
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Sorry for the delay I actually swapped back to the Kenda k909’s and had to throw a Kaly tire back on for the pics here. Set up is 10mm BN 270’s on BN adjustable baseplates with 6384 motors on the 5.2 BN AT drive and Trampa Fatladz hubs.
So I haven’t powered this build up yet but I’ve got it all to fit nicely. Here’s what I did:
10mm ID x 10mm Long spacer between hanger and hanger adapter on the drives. This takes the adapter engagement on the hanger from ~27mm down to ~17mm, but removes the excess axel left between the outer wheel bearing and end of axel. It would simply require the same length spacer between the wheel and axel nut if you want to run it with the normal hanger engagement.
Apologies for FUB calipers
Stack of 10mm ID washers measuring about 5mm long between drive adapter and wheel bearing
This gives the taller socket head screw clearance so they don’t hit the wheel
The first version of the drive adapters were lower profile and could get away with less but I’d recommend not using those since they are prone to wearing out quickly
Wheel is set up like this with the longer inner bolts protruding about 7-8mm from the wheel face
Fits on with no excess axel thread when you crank it down
Here it is compared to the K909
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you’re awesome for this!! thanks so much for the breakdown and detail… running 3.95 ratio, you think I’ll have issues with torque running those Kaly tires?
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No problem! Happy to contribute when I can.
What KV motor?
I haven’t had any actual ride time on the Kaly’s to compare with other pnuematics but I’d imagine a small hit in torque and range from the extra tire mass. The Kaly tires came with regular 200x50mm tubes instead of the wider tubes meant for these so I don’t think there’s a huge difference in actual tire contact patch width
For torque reference try inputting your set up into the 3d servisas calc to get a Nm value.
My set up theoretically gives me 41.5 Nm at 33.3 mph / 46.08 kph average speed which should be pretty punchy
170kv motors – same exact setup as you otherwise with 6384, BN270 10mm, m1-AT
thoughts on the kendas vs the kaly tires?
I’d say you’ll be fine on torque with 170kv. Mine are 190kv and I think I’ll have way more torque than I’ll ever need and I live in a steep mountain area lol.
So I’ve gone back and forth about everything with this build, but when I had the drives set up on this deck I liked the fit of the Kaly tires better.
Now with the hummie deck they were a bit too wide and got close to hitting the deck on full turn so I went back to the narrower kendas
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