It does respond and behave like normal on the bench.
I have abandoned the idea since it the trigger may not give the right signal the whole time.
Did you guys experiment with the GT2E?
Does this make a difference?
Protocol & Performance: The GT2E uses the newer AFHDS 2A protocol, whereas the GT2B uses the older AFHDS.
Are the internals the same size?
The Gt2e is the same remote but uses AAA batteries instead of lipo. Both use frequency hopping AFHDS. Not sure if there are any programming differences between the two.
Is the board the same size?
Can you put the GT2E internals inside TItos shell?
Im interested because the GT2E has newer radio than the GT2B.
no idea.
I thought the same until I bought both and thereās some pretty big differences. The PCBs inside are different, I found that out when I wanted to transplant stuff into a printed case. Regarding stock config the Eās shape was more ergonomic for me for braking, the throttle throw is longer for braking and has the same resistance as for acceleration (my B has less throw for brakes and the spring feels stiffer for brakes than acceleration). To me the GT2E has the best feel out of all the remotes I tried.
I broke the battery holder off the GT2E and put a 21700 in the grip part of it, also put in a USB-C TP4056 charger board. With those small mods itās my favourite remote for ergonomics and control. PS: the battery mod makes the battery status LED show low battery all the time, I just charge it every couple of months and never had an issue. I opened it up after the first 2 months and the battery was over 4vā¦
Dangā¦ no 3d Printed shell out there for the GT2E?
Have you had any issues with your gt2b @rafaelinmissouri ?
Mine have worked great every time except for the instance Moe was talking about at the con where there was interference happening at the track. Had no issues running gt2b throughout the group rides including down the strip where there has to be a ton of signals and stuff. And even when I had the issue at the con I swapped to a brand new flipsky gt2b in the full size case, races the remainder of the con with it and had no issues. I likely could have continued to use the original gt2b even but ya know, when you got an issue sometimes peace of mind of just swapping parts helps.
If I could tune my board the same way the mt12 allows me to through the hobbywing ESCs (I cant) I would still be running the gt2b remotes. MT12 has some nice features for track especially for me.
Theyāre affordable, comfortable and have a higher likelihood of surviving a crash (possibly lol).
Just a thought you might be fixing a working part of the puzzle.
I have not had issues with my GT2B. I have relatively few hours on it.
But to be fairā¦
I was wanting to do this āupgradeā to correct a problem I āsuspectā to have had with the Z-mote.
Maybe the Bad Idea belonged in the title the whole time.
At the moment I expect to continue to use the GT2B.
I do feel really sketchy about my old Z-motes so I want to eliminate the 4 I have left.
I wish I could find a similar model that has
AFHDS 2S like the GT2E, but I can do an easy battery mod like the GT2B.
Adding a charging module like @Dinnye did is more than I want to take on.
Itās funny as Iām going through this says I have had the thought that Iām ok with a signal cutoutā¦
The thing Iām not ok with is my board shooting off again. Because it would be so bad if I took out a college kid or two ..
Also worth noting that the GT2B with @Titoxd1000 case has been my favorite ergonomics and trigger feel everā¦ so I that part of it I really like.
I also like the priceā¦
Thereās this one on thingiverse and maybe a few more, though I havenāt printed any of these.
The charging module is actually super simple.
Just grab a TP4056 usb-c module from amazon/aliexpress, wire b+ b- to the battery, wire out+ out- to the remote. I just have the pcb hot glued into the bottom of the remote. Iāll grab a picture tomorrow if I donāt forget.
The only thing is itās best to charge from the usb port of a computer because thatās 0.5A supply and therefore the pcb doesnāt heat up as much. If you charge from a more powerful source for an extended period of time then you might melt the hotglue.
You can actually buy replacement trigger/potentiometer assemblies on aliexpress around 5$ each. I donāt have any potentiometer issues in any of my gt2e or gt2b remotes, but if you are paranoid of that (fair, I went through similar stuff with 2 vx1s) then you could just swap a new one in every half an year or so
Could I run the GT2E with a 2S lipo to avoid the low battery warning
That might be too much voltage and fry stuff, and then the low battery warning wouldnāt ever come on until you are well below how far you should be discharging the lipos. But the 1S is tried and tested. 2S, noone even tried.
Wanted to share my GT2E mods here:
So the most obvious mods are wheel delete (unscrew, hotglue the hole), and AA battery holder delete (actually happened accidentaly at first fall and I liked it so much that I do it to brand new remotes as well nowā¦) If you tap the bottom part to the ground it will likely just fall off in this exact same area. Could also just dremel it off, but thatās more work.
A 21700 battery is installed in the grip, this has practically infinite battery life, but as mentioned, battery indicator doesnāt work, so charge every few months for safety, (or possibly add some aliexpress battery indicator). USB-C TP4056 board wired up with the 4 wires as described, shoved into the bottom and covered up with hot glue. Ideally charge at only 0.5A (computer USB port).
Also kinda relevant, heres the GT2E vs GT2B ergonomics comparison.
TLDR E feels significantly better in hand (for me anyways)
