Is this salvageable?? One phase (c1) has continuity with main neg/pos.
Anyway to make one side drive both motors unsensored?
Probably shorted mosfets if this is the case. Each phase has 6 mosfets on this board. The top three are in parallel, and the bottom 3 are in parallel so you only need to test one on top and one on bottom for that phase.
Make sure to use one of the center pins where it has 4 pads (the bottom arrow on this pic) because one of the edge pins in the gate.
To test for a short, simply putting a multimeter in resistance mode and measuring should tell you. 0ish ohms is a shorted mosfet which is bad.
Replacing these is tricky. Needs a hot air station and flux, but I’ve worked on this board and it has a ton of copper in it which sucks away all the heat. It’s the only board that I actually needed to use a preheater on to get the mosfets off in a reasonable amount of time to avoid overheating them.
The mosfets can be bought here:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/onsemi/NTMFS5C612NLT1G?qs=dbuNSGnowt3fL%2FwPtjIOKQ%3D%3D
You won’t know if only one or all three mosfest on the top or bottom are shorted until they are removed, as they are in parallel.
Also a lot of times when the mosfets fail they can take out other stuff like the DRV chip.
Side note, this is one of my favorite Flipsky controllers. They used so much copper in it that the cooling is excellent. The mosfets are some of the best out there in that package, and they used 3 in parallel vs 2 in most controllers like the Stormcore. This means more current and less heat. They advertise 200A per side which is maybe a bit optimistic, but 150A is totally doable. It actually needs different shunts to handle these current levels though. With the 0.50 mΩ shunts on there now, and a 20 V/V gain, it can only read 165A, and you need some overhead so the PI controller can handle the current overshoot.
~0.20 mΩ shunts and some custom firmware would really wake this controller up!
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Looking for a good battery deal. Right now i have my mountainboard battery hooked up. The shifting works down to the 20’s sprockets but below that it wants to come off in the front.
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Resuming chaos… ressurected yobis and 15 inch dkps with 110.
Adjustable brackets are proving usable but have a ~ 1 degree bend at the deck mount. Im searching for something to mount this drivedrain too. Too bad that deck didnt last. Oh well. Time to let go of the 5 times skinned deck anyway.
Belts brake on the drive side of my bike. Need better engament or width.
Spherical bearings working with better epoxy.
OK, On the more practical side. Here are files for a unique 3dp mtb enclosure.
ENCLOSURE.stl (191.9 KB)
ENCLOSURE LID W:HEX:NO BUTTON.stl (198.5 KB)
ENCLOSURE LID HEX W:BUTTON.stl (202.2 KB)
GASKET.stl (150.9 KB)
NUT SUPPORT.stl (20.8 KB)
KINGPIN SUPPORT.stl (29.4 KB)
NUT RETAINER.stl (74.9 KB)
DECK PROTECTOR .stl (69.0 KB)
Planning to upload my configuration of this case when I return to mobile.
Requires
16 m4 heat set inserts
16 m4 10 - 15mm bolts
16 m4 washers of choic.
4 scrap yard bushings + 4 flat washers (must be flat and not cupped)
2 3 inch kingpins + nuts
I never figured out the baseplate design given the tooling I have available. Ideally the kingpins thread to the baseplate top down instead of using a nut.
this case will snugly fit basically any esc…
2 tb singles
flipsky 6.6 dual big version
stormcore
dimensions available upon request. Thanks and enjoy your dampening experience.
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