Is this salvageable?? One phase (c1) has continuity with main neg/pos.
Anyway to make one side drive both motors unsensored?
Probably shorted mosfets if this is the case. Each phase has 6 mosfets on this board. The top three are in parallel, and the bottom 3 are in parallel so you only need to test one on top and one on bottom for that phase.
Make sure to use one of the center pins where it has 4 pads (the bottom arrow on this pic) because one of the edge pins in the gate.
To test for a short, simply putting a multimeter in resistance mode and measuring should tell you. 0ish ohms is a shorted mosfet which is bad.
Replacing these is tricky. Needs a hot air station and flux, but I’ve worked on this board and it has a ton of copper in it which sucks away all the heat. It’s the only board that I actually needed to use a preheater on to get the mosfets off in a reasonable amount of time to avoid overheating them.
The mosfets can be bought here:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/onsemi/NTMFS5C612NLT1G?qs=dbuNSGnowt3fL%2FwPtjIOKQ%3D%3D
You won’t know if only one or all three mosfest on the top or bottom are shorted until they are removed, as they are in parallel.
Also a lot of times when the mosfets fail they can take out other stuff like the DRV chip.
Side note, this is one of my favorite Flipsky controllers. They used so much copper in it that the cooling is excellent. The mosfets are some of the best out there in that package, and they used 3 in parallel vs 2 in most controllers like the Stormcore. This means more current and less heat. They advertise 200A per side which is maybe a bit optimistic, but 150A is totally doable. It actually needs different shunts to handle these current levels though. With the 0.50 mΩ shunts on there now, and a 20 V/V gain, it can only read 165A, and you need some overhead so the PI controller can handle the current overshoot.
~0.20 mΩ shunts and some custom firmware would really wake this controller up!
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Looking for a good battery deal. Right now i have my mountainboard battery hooked up. The shifting works down to the 20’s sprockets but below that it wants to come off in the front.
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Resuming chaos… ressurected yobis and 15 inch dkps with 110.
Adjustable brackets are proving usable but have a ~ 1 degree bend at the deck mount. Im searching for something to mount this drivedrain too. Too bad that deck didnt last. Oh well. Time to let go of the 5 times skinned deck anyway.
Belts brake on the drive side of my bike. Need better engament or width.
Spherical bearings working with better epoxy.
OK, On the more practical side. Here are files for a unique 3dp mtb enclosure.
ENCLOSURE.stl (191.9 KB)
ENCLOSURE LID W:HEX:NO BUTTON.stl (198.5 KB)
ENCLOSURE LID HEX W:BUTTON.stl (202.2 KB)
GASKET.stl (150.9 KB)
NUT SUPPORT.stl (20.8 KB)
KINGPIN SUPPORT.stl (29.4 KB)
NUT RETAINER.stl (74.9 KB)
DECK PROTECTOR .stl (69.0 KB)
Planning to upload my configuration of this case when I return to mobile.
Requires
16 m4 heat set inserts
16 m4 10 - 15mm bolts
16 m4 washers of choic.
4 scrap yard bushings + 4 flat washers (must be flat and not cupped)
2 3 inch kingpins + nuts
I never figured out the baseplate design given the tooling I have available. Ideally the kingpins thread to the baseplate top down instead of using a nut.
this case will snugly fit basically any esc…
2 tb singles
flipsky 6.6 dual big version
stormcore
dimensions available upon request. Thanks and enjoy your dampening experience.
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Quick logging. Built another gear drive for he haws. This one has the thrust bearing inside the casing and uses half 3d printed parts. Safety is a concern…
Also the 0 degree baseplates work great on a mtb. Tho my trucks are clicking now and i hope its nothing.
Some photos
Processing: 20240113_105652.jpg…
Looking forward to foward mounting these on my subsonic century. Another thing, anyone have experience with 4130? Will the gears break?
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Experimental pump set up inspired by otherplanet trucks, although the front truck is unique. I was trying to replicate the action of a dual axis surfskate into one motion. Pumps pretty well but the wheel base is too far foward due to the unique design of the front truck. Willing to post riding footage if anyones interested. Needed to document before it crumbles.
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Stronger prototype, a return to center mechanism is needed.
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Quick installment, this is the present state of my boards.
On the trampa I have 6384 170kv and a stormcore. Im limited amp wise by the stormcore but between ppm is behaving poorly compared to my vx1 or 2. Anyone have more tips? I decreased my deadband, decreased ramping time, throttle expo 20% but the torque is so bad. Its the difference in the remote. Anyone have more insight im using a mini remote?
Also the rkp flipsky mod is awesome but the baseplates are .25 chromoly so are rather heavy. Very stable with cup washer, and pivot spacers with spherical.
Another thing is I found 1/8th inch adhesive rubber to make grip pads for the haero it sticks well to the deck but didnt leave residue after peeling in the area i tested.
One more note, the ir trucks are questionable but i need the width for bigger motors and a motor shim
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Missed this, definitely want to see the footage. Did you switch to the spring setup vs the bushing? Idk why but springs make me think oscillations and wobbles - hows it feel riding springs vs bushings?
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theres a lot going on with that project, its been some time since ive messed with it. When the winter hits I do more messing around with parts like this.
I did ride it. The springs make the overall motion better because you can stiffen the mechanism and make true to center. The bushings work fine but get deformed frequently. I think its mostly a failed project in this application. I weigh a bit too, im 245 rn. I was heavier this past winter. It makes testing these contraptions a bit more dangerous but forces me to make them strong.
Ill dig up the project soon and mount it to something. The rear truck worked very well on a mtb. I have some photos… im not sure i posted these. It was a really fun set up!
The rear truck does not work as well for surfskate, the front truck I made and a regular tkp rode better. Thanks for the interest!
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Nice, winter is my time to tinker and build too - summer is for riding and quick dodgy repairs 
Maybe @b264 knows a little more about your mini remote issues? Im not sure i fully understand what you’re referring to and haven’t messed with the mini
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Have you used the puck v1 a while back? It feels kinda like that. Like the throttle is holding back. I personally feel its the difference between the input mode ppm vs uart. I might just need to upgrade the remote.
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What does the PWM look like in the tool? Did you ever set the PWM pulsewidths or is it just set to default?
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I did this through the input wizzard, i didnt do it again since I changed the deadband. Thanks
I have never used the input wizard. Try doing it manually. I usually make the physical throttle throw like -105% to +105% and then set a 5% - 7% deadband. When you set the maximum to 105% instead of 100%, it means you can lightly keep it pulled back if you want max throttle and you don’t need to mash it hard, and it won’t be flipping between 99% and 100%.
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Interesting bits! Thank you ill give er a shot