Check for faults on the Stormcore. If you are getting ABS OC faults, then those are usually caused by intermittently shorted internal motor windings, poor soldering on the bullets, poor bullet connection, or a phase shorting to ground somewhere. If both the Flipsky and Stormcore are struggling with the motor, then you could try redoing the bullet and inspecting the phase wires. Otherwise it may be time for a new motor.
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Thank you for the knowledge ill do some more inspecting. Outta curiosity if a sensor wire was frayed and touching something metal could it cause this, say the white wire?
The blue phase wire on the suspect motor was 90% disconnected. Thanks for looking out. Tough to fix, does the front panel of a 6374 come off?
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Sounds like you found the root cause! A great example of reasonable abs limits saving the controller.
Motor disassembly and repair is more @b264’s wheelhouse, maybe he has some tips
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Thank the lord the stormcore survived.
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Depending on what motor it is, it’s probably similar to this
Disassembly is the inverse of assembly.
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Torque 6 esc has a 5 amp higher cont. Current rating and 5mm bullet connecters compared to the stormcore. Gonna squeeze a bit more amps.
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My buddy at a machine shop had 6 of these cnc aluminum spacers for a shower curtain, they work perfectly for spacers for the boardnamics gear drive to avoid cutting motor shafts. I was considering popping a bearing in the spacer to help shaft side loads.
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I have 4 3s6p packs. The first time i charged the batteries the were all spot welded without the series break and they all charged to max voltage 4.2.
I dissasembled the pack because the series connections were not sufficient for higher currents. I doubled the nickle between each 3s pack series connection and used appropriate wire for the break in the series.
Each new 3s 6p pack has a main negative, and ascending cell voltages in relation the to the mt30s.
I can plug the pack into the bms by first connecting the batteries in series, connecting the main negative, then connecting the packs by ascending order.
The battery seems healthy. The cells were new but old but also charged right up the first time. I was short for time and rode around on a partial charge and the 12s6p did not sag or drop much voltage so it seems to be as it should.
This is the second bms i have installed, but for whatever reason the packs will not charge fully anymore. I do not notice variance in the p groups indicating anything funky with cells and i checked my welds they are on there.
My question is does the lenth of the series connection matter for a charge bms? The pack charges to 48v and then my charger blinks red/green. The polarity is right, and its not my charger.
Fwiw i can use the pack without hiccup it just wont charge * i dont use this pack but simply tested at partial charge without hiccup.
How can i check for a bad cell without charging 72 individual 18650’s? As mentioned the p groups are without variance or diminishing voltage.
Also wondering if i should have discharge hooked up to keep balance in the cells, currently i have it bypassed due to current restraint on the bms.
Do i loose regen balance braking without discharge hooked up?
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Welds look fine to me, they are on there
BUT, i did just discover my bms main negative was not connect. You win, im a fool:weary:
. So odd how this went through without me noticing. I feel certain that is the issue.
Has any harm been done?
We have charge!
Charger stopping at 49v ughhhh y??
Wire guage from bms to batt V important. Upped the gauge and the battery made it past 49v
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Jumper upgrades since flipsky diead
New motors with 5mm connecters
Torque 6 esc
Mbs heel straps/bindings
Quick swap esc case
Quick swap battery binding
Need some better motors the 6374 get hot after a bit of riding probably pushing them a bit.
Oh AND working diy 12s6p modular packs samsung 30q
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So i added a e brake line to the mini bike, you pull the lever and it clamps the disk.
I cannot get enough friction between the aluminum disk and the rubber pad. Ive tried many materials and adjusting the lever but it cant get me to stop. Anyone have suggestion for stopping this tank?
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If you don’t have access to the other side of the disc, a drum brake might be your best option tbh. If you can space the disc off the wheel, set up a screw mechanism like other mechanical disc brakes
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Let me take a look into that, thanks for the suggestion.
Awesome idea!
Rigged up a drum brake from a scooter. Just had to make a brake pad and straighten the clamp. The results are significantly better. Thanks for the suggestion.
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This build is one of the most rat rod machines I’ve ever seen, bravo
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dude it’s like you’ve done a line of coke off a hookers ass and been unleashed in a garage of bits.
i’m loving it
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