Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

[Posterduck]

How do I keep the motor can screws from backing out? I have already tried medium strength thread locker.

[Timmy]

i’m making a battery pack that’s 12Ah, i should be able to charge at more than 2 amps right? up to 12 amps? but that’s a bit much

[Athrx]

What cells do you use and how many are there in paralel?

[Timmy]

samsung 40T 21700 cells
3p

[RyEnd]

You’re gonna wanna charge that bad boy @ 6A for maximum life. You can charge them as fast as 18A safely, but you’re reducing the cycle life.

[Athrx]

This is the first result when googling “samsung 40t specsheet”. They are rated for 2A normal charge (at 3p it means 6A) and fast charge at up to 6A (so… 18A fast charge, but don’t, really.)
I would recomment up to 8A charge if you use a typical barrel jack (like in laptop chargers)

[Athrx]

If you’re willing to wait for delivery, aliexpress has some chargers with serious power at around £50. But… you know, china. They won’t last forever. Look for chargers with aluminium casing and fans wherever you buy from

[Timmy]

ok thanks, i looked at some chargers that can do +4Amps, they aren’t cheap
(not on aliexpress) but yeah i’ll probably order there since in my country i can’t find any 6 amp ones under 100€

[Athrx]

Have a look on ebay and restrict results to your country only. Use both “x s charger xA” and “x.x V charger xA” for the best shot at nailing some keywords

[wandagoner]

to pile on @Athrx stated here are some references to help in the future:
Samsung 40T datasheet: 40T.pdf (1.8 MB)
3.1 Charge: 0.5C(2A), 4.20V, 0.05C(200mA) cut-off @ RT

reference compiled by Mooch

[kook]

I told ya you’d get some good answers!

now go and do good!

[Athrx]

Huh?.. connected without motors, got this message, updated both firmwares separately (now they both have 4.2 which i heard is far from best). Still get this message. What gives?

[bwahl602]

See a thread I posted in the how to section for fixing those. Now that it’s moved, they are likely mushroomed and backing them out will destroy the threads. Best fix is to put in m4

[Posterduck]

Well your right about the part where backing them out will destroy them, both are now stripped. So your saying I should force some m4 screws in to create new threads?

[bwahl602]

TorqueBoards 6355 motor shaft retention repair - applicable to other motors

That looks like a difficult machining task to put that dutch pin between hardened steel and aluminum Any motors do better than others? I believe the Maytech sealed motors have an extra bearing there, but not much else to mitigate these issues? I saw the pics of the larger 6380s with the 4 bolts, heres a pic @torqueboards sent to me. [image] The windows are not machined out on all 4 sides, making this very difficult to do on the 6355 cans

You will need to drill them and tap

[bwahl602]

That lays out how to fix it. Hopefully you have enough material left after removing the messed up screws.
You could ask @torqueboards if he has any cans for sale

[Posterduck]

I think I will give it a shot! Regarding the tap, do I want a M4-0.7 or M4-3/4?

[MysticalDork]

Anything M5 (or 10-32 if you’re using freedumb units) will fit.

As mentioned before, hex drive is preferred over phillips or pozi due to resistance to camming out.

Strength class 12.9 is preferred, but truck screws aren’t ridiculously stressed so it’s not critical.

[MysticalDork]

You want M4-0.7.

[Posterduck]

I’ll give it a shot tomorrow! If it doesn’t work, I will just stick weld the fucker together.