Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Will I need a new focbox? I have no idea what the problem is

No.

For the same capacity, 12s has 20% more energy. It’s also 20% larger. Look at your Wh numbers - 10s gave you 311 Wh, 12s gave you 431 Wh. If you divide the Wh consumed by the km driven, you will see that the 10s has an efficiency of 15.8 Wh/Km, while the 12s has 17.17 Wh/Km - lower is better. You got more range from 12s because it has more energy, despite it having worse efficiency.

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yes 12s without changing the gear ratio encourages faster riding so you waste more power from wind losses, and you can accelerate quicker as well because the same battery current limit allows higher motor current at the higher end of the speed range, which leads to more copper losses.

itz cyan blue with white in it…so light blue or light cyan i would say.
Cyan is on the edge of green- some ppl see it more green others more blueish. I see it blueish :rofl:

That’s definitely FLUOR GREEN. Motip has spray paint in cans in this color:

https://www.google.nl/shopping/product/1?q=fluor+groen+lak&client=safari&hl=nl-nl&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&sxsrf=ACYBGNSIv37dnoT6XCOmL5Ns4LpH8c7sOw:1578950680790&prds=num:1,of:1,epd:5159494428134591805,paur:ClkAsKraX-lx1GI8mraWMwwSFmxLP9YGTU0lPVUsS_d_QTuNmJlnNH3JpZOdDNeHJmv9z7DdVhkDJr5nzbGEwUqB_VmnGOmtnFuG21uwggXwGOrIhS7iz7YE_hIZAFPVH715HbchpCiBpW79q3TBSDnUgg27Tw,prmr:1,pid:5159494428134591805,cs:1

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nahhh…Monata calls this color shock blue light!
The problem in giving names to colors is you can give it any name you want, but there are a few colors pll worldwide use to be much clearer.
CMYK for example.!
Here the SHOCK BLUE LIGHT hahahahaha

@City-Blade-101 You talk about the urethane but he asked the color of the core. I’m a graphic designer so if this were print work I would call it PMS 802C which is indeed Fluor green. Oh and Fluor colors cannot be made with CMYK, I know because I’m twenty+ years in this business. :blush:

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lmao sorry ahhahaha didnt realize it was the core color :see_no_evil:
stupid me, sorry!
just wanted to be helpful

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NP :ok_hand:t2: We all misread things

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It’s here

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Your name is pretty on point… You need to flash that thing :smiley:
I have 0 experienced with unity but lots of experience with VESC 4.x and roughly same brains (STM32 based chip) inside. If there is a st-link port (there ought to be) then you can use an st-link cable or USB adapter+wires, and believe 4 connections (RST, SWDIO, GND, and SWCLK) then can write the firmware directly to the STM chip bypassing the built in USB port and USB to serial interface (typically an FTDI or silicon labs chip). If the USB and UART interfaces are down ST-link is the last ditch effort to flash firmware and bootloader. Barring that replacing the ESC(s) (it’s a 2 in 1) is the way to go, believe Deodand on the forum was the last working on the unity and maybe can seek him out for help.

how would i gain access to the st-link

i hardly understood what you said could you dumb it down a bit for me please and thank you

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You plug that green thing called an “st-link adapter” like $10 into the st-link port then can use the st utility (a windows program from STMicroelectronics the company behind the STM chip)

With the adapter and utility you can flash binary firmware that has been compiled already for that chip and board (assuming you can get the firmware binary from enertion or just use a VESC firmware with it but have my doubts using anything but made for unity firmware). The st utility and and St link just allow you to get around the USB or uart connections and flash firmware directly (assuming you have or can get that firmware).

With the utility and adapter you can also easily back up the firmware or all the data on the flash memory on the stm32 chip.


Edit I may have it plugged into the sensor port instead of st-link port in the image was just throwing it together to show the adapter really just FYI if anyone sees this image.

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that’s really helpful thank you, i might wait to see what @Deodand thinks.

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Is arcboards on the forum?

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@ArcBoardsEV

Hey guys,

I promise soon enough I’ll be able to hopefully answer some of these noob questions as opposed to only asking them… :/. Anyhow I’m working on an AWD build with 4 90kV TB DD motors. Using a 12s6p battery back and two dual vesc6s. My question being when I program the vescs should I set the motor max at 60A? Or 30A. Is the setting per motor or for in this case the two together hooked up to each VESC. I know the VESC can handle up to 200A continuous but the battery would be approx 120A. Or is my math off somewhere. Thanks a lot again.

Battery is total for each vesc, motor is individual. If you want total 120A battery, then set 60A per dual vsec6 (or whatever bias front/rear you want) and motors can be 60A each. Motor max doesn’t affect battery draw, mostly just low speed torque.

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Thank you!