This is what I used based on recommendations from other folks - and Iām using a Flipsky 4.20 with the resistor mods and everything done to that. The battery is a 10S5P battery
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Somebody also thought they might be samsung 22p just to further confuse thingsā¦
You could be hitting your amp limits but the other symptoms point towards a connection issue. Check all your cabling for weak points and make sure theyāre covered with heat shrink
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Is this a diyeboards battery or other?
Thatās almost for sure a repackaged Diyeboards battery. Identical specs. I would go 40 batt max to be safe.
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Single overhead line trolley yes. Iāve been over the tracks when its in close proximity to me as well. But it may be a special case where the motors touch the tracks. Or maybe just signal issue with the remote? But doesnāt correlate with reset times and the VESC master not booting
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Iām not sure; just as confused as you are. Iād eliminate variables, one at a time.
First, eliminate all power switches so the board is always on. Donāt leave it sit off charger thoughā¦
Then see if it happens again
Then flash a different firmware version (Ackmaniac 3.103 or VESC Tool) and see if it happens again
Then change remotes and see if it happens again
With about a week or two of rides in between each change
At least, thatās where Iād start. Once you identify whatās wrong, you can revert the rest of the changes.
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Is it possible your motor is hitting the ground in the other scenarios you mentioned?
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Iāll give it a shot. Any thoughts on that Bluetooth connection?
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About that battery: that particular battery is know to have significant sag, so anything below 50% or so will feel like youāve all of a sudden gained 50 lbs or are skating into a strong headwind. So any issues that feel like youāre having motor cutouts or the like could simply be the battery no longer outputting enough happy juice to run the show properly.
No real thoughts on your BT issue, sorry to say.
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That sucks this battery was so expensive 
Do you have any recommendations for a better battery that would fit that same form factor? Iāve already drilled holes to mount the current battery enclosure to the board and it was hard enough to punch those holes in such a nice deckā¦
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Sorry, my intent was not to bum you out, but to point out factors that could be causing your issues. MBoards is kind of a touchy subject on this forum for a reason.
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Less frequently now but there are the occasional grinds here and there. But not I donāt believe the motors are striking most of the time if any. Was just considering contact with the rail as a variable
@b264 thanks Iāll make a loop key tomororw and start with eliminating the anti spark.
Would a METR or something help show whatās going on in real time? Was considering grabbing one anyway
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@ADrum707
I can verify thisā¦ above 50% the battery performs acceptably, but below 50% is less so, still with a 10s5p I can easily get 12-15miles range easily and up to 18miles if I donāt beat up on the battery too muchā¦
Usually, I run mine from 100% to about 50% and call it goodā¦
how I happened upon this battery is a LONG story
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Fuck Mike Beard in the 55V
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If you ever want to share in a PM, Iām all ears. Weāre always interested in getting vendor feedback.
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Some other can chip in as Iām no expert. But from what @BillGordon said, you should lower your max batt amps to 40 to start.
You should check the Vesc settings for the batt min cutoff start and end values. When your voltage gets to the cutoff start, the board will feel a lot slower and throttle curve much softer. This is when you know youāre at that voltage and need to be careful with heavy throttle use because you have that voltage sag. I think the 10S calculator (At the bottom of the app on the same page) gives you a start and end of 33/31. Maybe lower the end to 30 and raise the start to 33.5-34. Youāll know a little sooner when your in the danger zone and youāll give yourself a little more room for sag by lowering to 30. This may reduce cell life
Doing that stuff should leave you with a pretty capable board compared to where itās at. You can salvage some of this
Actually what @kook said might put your cutoff start closer to 36
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Sensor wire got ripped out of the ESC and bent one of the pins way overā¦ doesnāt immediately detect. How should I go about diagnosing the fault? Iām thinking the wires are disconnected somewhere but no idea how to find where
Need to try continuity checking or just replace the plug if you donāt want to open the motor to get at the sensor side of things.
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Or just run sensorless 
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