VESC firmware only goes to 95% at full throttle
Not that I know of. Itās been a minute since Iāve been down his way though.
hello,
will a 6x2 tires/tube or solid rubber fit MBS Rockstar II?
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@dikoharold
Mbs states it wont
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How do you guys route your motor wires into the enclosure? Iām trying to find the cleanest (visibly) and the most dust proof. I have previously just drilled holes slightly bigger than the wires and pushed the wires through, but a lot of dust would still get in. I think something with rubber would be betterā¦?
I donāt have any blueprints or similar, just knowledge of how to build things. A motor is a motor is a motor. Doesnāt matter if itās a hub, a direct drive, or a satellite (belt, gear, chain, whatever). All that matters is that it has the required power, torque and speed.
What Iām saying is that itās possible to take apart a motor down to itās barest necessities (a stator and a rotor) and then use those for a different application.
You will have to do the design work yourself if you canāt find someone elseās work to go off of.
This is why I said itās possible, but not practical.
Epoxy MR60 connectors into the enclosure using JB Weld. Run sensorless since itās more reliable anyway.
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Just updated to 23.46 on the unity, not sure if itās an ESC or motor problem so iām asking here. On bench, i noticed that one wheel takes about 2 seconds to come to a stop after letting go of the throttle. I then try to hold that one wheel and to my surprise, i can stop it with my hand and stop it from spinning, and yet the other wheel spins when throttling. Could it be a motor issue?
Edit : the other motor can also be stopped by my hand, i think its just traction control doing this but just wanna check if this is normal behavior or not.
Need to remove some rounded HEX bolts and so need some extractor tool, any recommendations from UK Amazon?
(Yes I tried using torx instead, yes I got rid of crappy allen keys and got proper ones from Wiha hex-plus)
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Iāve had reasonable luck finding a torx bit that is just a bit larger than the rounded hole, pounding that sucker into the hole, and then using a driver to back the screw out.
Works best with high quality bits made of nice hard S2 tool steel.
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If a pack shorts out, how do you tell if itās safe to use? The connector kinda melted
Battery is 12s3p 30q bypass, voltage is still 44.3V and nothing is warm except the molten connector
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I was using a connector as a support but I grabbed the one I used as a short from a test long long ago
Iām about to have a heart attackā¦
Thank you.
If I donāt do this now I will be scared forever, I have supervision
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A batter main and 6 bullets later Iām feeling mush better, pack is still stone cold and 44.3V
Iāve been there, the ākeep the window open, extinguisher handy, and big channel lock pliers nearby ā just in case this thing goes supernovaā heart attack sequence
Hope you got it sorted out 
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My general sequence is: feel the pack all over. Any localized hotspots, or any change in the shape under the shrink wrap, are cause for concern. Then I do the sniff test all around for any burning smells: Itās normal at the point of the short, but anywhere else is A Bad Thing.
Then Iād cautiously apply load, starting small and working up to the full discharge rating, and repeat the above checks to make sure nothing internal was weakened to the point that normal use will cause undue heating/damage.
After that, if all seems well, use as normal but watch it like a hawk the first couple cycles.
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How should slowly increase load? Just limit amp draw settings?
One way, of many ways, would be to set ābattery maxā and ābattery minā to like 5A / -2A and ride full throttle uphill, then keep increasing those.
But on the bench upside down it will never reach the maximums, youād need to actually have a load on it and be ready to inspect it with a quickness.
Not sure what enclosure solution would allow such fast access, maybe tape around the deck (for a temporary use while testing)
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