If you want a good prebuilt esk8, you get a Metroboard X or a @longhairedboy custom board, or a LaCroix board.
Definitely an Evolve, a Meepo, Ownboard, Raptor 2.X these are things you do NOT buy.
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yeah but just look at it, looks like it got smacked with the ugly stick
at the end of the day if it wasnt diy that u fucked it
but even then I bet most over power their motors the first time round or something of the such , but i do wish i just did it from the gate myself
Iāll take ugly if it works
Any working ugly skate goes faster AND further than any broken svelte skate
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ahh for me if it breaks ill throw a pair of the torque boards set on thier and we back in buisiness baby !
maytech 90mm hub motors look pretty solid aswell I just wish they where cnc
You will get much better performance from TB direct drive and real polyurethane longboard wheels than you will get from the Raptor hubs.
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Literally anything will be better than the R2 hubs. Please please please donāt buy hubs again. Direct drive or throw some cans mounted off the back is gonna be the best solution. Please donāt let us all continue to advise you to throw those hubs into the ocean, everyone here will say exactly the same
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Whereās the right place to ask for help explaining vesc wand settings? I have a log that seems to demonstrate strange behavior. Steady duty cycle and on/off motor amps. I was cruising low speed in the dark and noticed some real weird on/off throttle behavior. I did my best to keep the throttle completely still. The board was surging on/off with light throttle. I can see what I imagine is evidence of this on the log. Low 20% range duty cycle and motor amps alternate to 0.0. Is this normal and I just need to read more?
I recently installed a flipsky VX2 from a VX1 which was a ppm to uArt change. This is definitely a new development with the board.
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Your VX1 was also set up to run via UART
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The only thing I can think of off the top of my head is if youāre right at the edge of the throttle deadzone (very near the neutral position), then itās possible for any slight jitter in the system to cause the vesc to go in and out of neutral. If thatās the case, just giving it a little more throttle should get away from the deadzone and you should be fine.
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Shit really? The vx2 instructions showed it connected to a different port. Would have to look at the board again but assumed was a move from ppm to uart.
For instance
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Yeah the flipsky has a few uart ports on it. The one the vx1 reciever was plugged into was actually designed for that specific receiver to plug into
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as far as iām aware 40t are actually betterā¦ i donāt have graphs or proof, but i have good sources that tell me p42 actually heat up way to fast, especially in a power hungry board like a mtb. Companies actually make small revisions without saying, as you can see mooch does second tests after a year or two and thatās not coincidence. 40t used to be quite bad actually, they were first rated at 20A but revisions made them much better. p42 have had few revivions and the only way they are better that 40t is because molicell actually push them to the limit. i have a 12s6p p42a going into my boardā¦ i wish i had gone with 40t tbh even though i havnāt tested either yet/
i donāt think iāll be dissapointed but iām scared to see how hot they get, especially in summer and also their lifespan over the years. I would say 40t is better but again i have to physical proof, only some secret sources
thatās my 2c 
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I donāt know how accurate it is but the values make sense to me.
Great work!
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Welp, I hope this thread helped a lot of folks.
Looks like all good things must come to an end eventually. Fear not, a trusty replacement will be around soon 
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