I just relax my self and go full throttle …with a big smile…
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Smooth is good for the surface. But that’s interesting. I’m not sure I agree it debunks it. I think your mass, the speed and the significant amount over forward momentum compared to what those little trucks can generate in off direction forces if they were to wobble.
Strap on caliber 2s and 90 wheels and try that. 
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Maybe it’s bumping up against an ERPM limit or some sort of limit? Ie it’s pretty easy to hold anything under a hundred but at a hundred percent, trying not to overshoot or undershoot becomes harder when there’s not much to overshoot with?
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Now that he mentions this I have to admit it’s a perfect description of how mine feels at the top. But 10s 190kv shouldn’t be there
Could be a software limit maybe? That said I’m not exactly sure why at the open end it would be hard to control
Alternatively, anything below full throttle is susceptible to small variations in speed (not keeping throttle as constant as we think) whereas full throttle maxes out on speed. Maybe the small changes in speed feels more stable versus the absolute of top end
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Thanks for this wonderful link. Split truck angles, wtf are they? and why should I care? and other stuff about trucks
It should be a must read for all.
If I am reading right, the front of the board should tilt higher than the back. If this is the case and you don’t have the luxury of lower back trucks and higher front trucks - can a larger diameter wheel in front work?
Basically, after doing a search, I haven’t come across anyone who has tried placing different sized wheels in front from the back.
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If you are just wedging/dewedging with angled risers, the difference in height will be very minimal.
For one of my boards that has an adjustable baseplate, which has the front tilted to 60, and the back tilted to 30, i had a riser at the back to compensate for the height, in this case it was a tunnel riser to route my wires into the enclosure.
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Now that I think about it, that’s true. I guess that means people should take extra care in having their boards level w.r.t. the ground / the front a bit higher on setups with near equal angled trucks. Otherwise the back will steer more than the front, which isn’t that good.
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Angle is relative to the board isn’t it? Also wouldn’t you need significantly bigger wheels to change the degree relative to the ground
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Very good question. I don’t actually know 
But you could change the angle with a lot of risers on one side as well, don’t need differently sized wheels necessarily
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Angle of the trucks is relative to the road, not the deck. (actually I may be wrong…)
I used to ride with the back slightly higher than the front and didn’t notice anything at all about that really.
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I almost always had the front of my board lower than the rear when I was doing downhill.
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I always though angle was the kingpin relative to the baseplate (deck). Relative to the ground would mean that if half the board is on an incline or decline, it would change the turning (maybe it does although I feel that’s more because of the incline or decline than changing the relative angles)
Doing the math here:
Assuming board is flat at 0 degrees and a wheel base of 30 inches
tan(0) * 30 = 0 = flat
tan(1) * 30 = .52 => half an inch offset for 1 degree change relative to axle
tan(2) * 30 = 1.04 => an inch offset for 2 degree change relative to axle.
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Yah but what is the base plate angle refer to? angle to the deck or road? That’s the question.
I am unsure but initially thought road. Most skate decks are parallel to the road so it’s the same either way. But what about MTB? 35* tips with what are 0* trucks. In actuality they’re more like 90* due to the kingpin being parallel with the ground but I’m calling them 0* because if they were mounted to a flat deck they would have no steering at that angle.
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So it is from the deck ok
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Interestingly, I think from that image, it shows how differently sizing the bushings can affect up to 5 degrees in angles
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Yah I noticed that too with my front truck where it was more like 43 or 44 degrees instead of 45 when I looked close up. Then I saw that graphic.
I wonder if it’s bad for pivot cup lifespan to have it not perfectly aligned with the “right” size bushings.
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The rubber cup maybe but those are easy to replace I would imagine. The actual cup itself is probably fine. I don’t think I’ve ever heard of a cup failure
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