A Hallow-body, Shovel-tail Deck Build | CNC | Integrated Deck

Yeah just wait it out and keep an eye on the threads, I’m sure Jeff will let us know when he’s got boxes of goodies up for grabs

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Right on. Thanks for the info.

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Alright, I’ve had some time to work on this integrated deck design. Version 2.0 is done. I pretty much totally overhauled it. As you can see in the pictures the shape has evolved quite a bit. It’s longer and a little fatter (about 33" x 9 1/2"). The nose it significantly wider. The 5 1/2" tail is a touch smaller, but fairly different because I changed the shape and relocated the wheel-scallops. The interior compartment is 10mm wider and 20mm longer. The depth below the lid is 23mm. As pictured below, I was able to fit two esc and 30 18650 cells inside of the compartment. I can make it deeper. I would just have to add more layers of veneer. Right now there are 4 sheets of veneer (about 6mm) below the electronics compartment reinforced by 8 oz fiberglass. That’s a lot of protection. If my electronics are packed nicely, I should be able to slam the board on curbs and coping.

As I just mentioned the entire bottom of the board is coated with epoxy that is reinforced with 8 oz fiberglass. That is probably about twice as much as is needed. The naked board is strong enough to ride on its own but the fiberglass will make the board last a long time while also making it safer. The top grip is done with three different grades of recycled glass grit embedded in epoxy resin. I really like this way of doing grip. It is very durable and cleans up easily. Also, it holds you in place really well.

For the lid I changed my approach. Instead of making a lid from contoured veneer, I bought dimensional, bamboo lumber that matched the grain and tone of the veneer that I use. While cutting the lid out, I also used the CNC to bring the lid down to the surface of the deck as shown it the picture. Then I used an angle grinder fitted with a flap disk and an orbital-sander to match the concavity of the deck. The lid is then fastened into place using 1/4 inch bolts secured by beefy inserts in the center of the compartment.

The lid is about 95% there. When I cut it out, I use the same tool path that is used for the pocket that it will fit into, but I have to use an allowance offset that can be milled to one thousandths of a millimeter, or the lid will fit too snug. You would need a rubber mallet to put it in and a crow-bar to pry it out. Figuring out the best offset for aesthetics and functionality will take a few tries. Until then the seam where the lid meets the deck is still visible… but this deck is really light colored and hiding the seem is very difficult. If the top where stained it would be much more camouflaged.

I made a nice little pocket on the bottom for the motor wire portholes and a charging jack. I’m going to make a small one on the side for an easy access power button or loop-key. Another pocket could easily be made in the front of the compartment for an AWD design.

I mocked it up with some Independent standard KP trucks with 180mm hangers and Seismic Speed-vent 85mm wheels. I love those wheels. They have similar dimensions to the NeoHubs and Orangutang Caguamas.

I had a lot of fun with this deck. My method for making integrated decks is definitely coming along. My method differs from a lot of what I’ve seen because it is made from formed veneer just like traditional skateboards. Others have essentially reverse 3D printed decks from a block. Now those boards are beautiful, but I think this method will perform better, especially when the underbelly is reinforced with fiberglass, carbon-fiber or CF/Kevlar.

I have notebooks full of sketches of deck shapes and 1000 sheets of bamboo en route after our Chinese friends get back from CNY. Imma get to work on some more decks. If anybody has suggestions for integrated-deck shapes, just post a link to an inspiration-board or sketch one up and post a pick. If it’s fly, I might just do it. Also, as far as DIY is concered, I can make these decks at several different finish levels so that you can skin the bottom and grip the top however you please if you got skillz.

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Looks really cool and you’ve made something unique :clap:

After 1k miles and shitloads of curbs could you give us an actual and real review of how it has performed?

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Very cool man.
Prettyy interested to see how these hold up.

Drop down & drop through deck, but the middle goes up into a box similar to a mountain board, where you would house all your electrical components. It would be small enough to still put grip tape above and just treat it as a weird longboard shape (that you could step on if you were just walking around your board / jumping on it without care), but still with enough volume to put a nice big battery in. Low riders are awesome.

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Thanks and will do. It’s very solid. Miles shouldn’t be a problem. I don’t mean to be presumptuous about it’s ability to slam curbs. It’s a goal of mine. Most plastic enclosures wouldn’t stand a chance. Your average street skate is made with 7 layers of unreinforced maple. The bottom of this has 4 layers of bamboo reinforced with 8 oz fiberglass. That should actually be stronger and more flexible than a street deck. There is also roughly an inch of bamboo to the front, back and sides surrounding the compartment. It’s strong. Of course everything needs to be tested.

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I’ve got a drop deck in the works. I don’t know about the topside enclosure, but I won’t rule the idea out.

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I could definitely use help testing these out so that I can get some miles on them quick. I’d sell a few of them for cost of materials, and refund or replace anything that is not up to cuff.

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I’d be down for one! It’s like a bamboo Esk8 version of my favourite deck, the 121c Aileron.

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Love this!:heart: true diy fashion right here and beautiful work :+1:

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That’s exactly what I was shooting for. A kicktail with room for big wheels. How long is that one?

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That one’s a featherweight, but very similar in many other parameters. Are you in the States?

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Australia mate.

I’m in the middle of the US. I worry that it could cost more than the deck to ship it, but maybe not. It only weighs 5.5 lbs.

Don’t worry, get a quote and I’ll decide.

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Australia is the most expensive place in the world to ship to from the US.

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Is there a specific type of bamboo sheet/ply/veneer? To buy?

I need to look around locally if they sell bamboo boards. It would be interesting to try and mill some.

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I’m using 1/16 inch uncarbonized veneer in this project. In the states you can buy it through roarockit.com. They sell it in 10 and 20 sheet sets, but they also do bulk pricing. They have partners in the EU and AU Roarockit.eu and AustralianSkateboardKits.com.

If you want anything more than 50 sheets, I’d just source it through Alibaba. Most bamboo comes from Asia so you can avoid a lot of middle men that way. I’m in the middle of looking at samples from a few manufacturers. If I find good venders, I’ll make sure to share them.

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