Ya but the cycle life is a fraction of the lifepo4. So it’s more expensive in the long run.
Looks like they’re both rated to 80% after 2000 cycles…
Ya I just don’t believe that. Maybe it’s true but I haven’t seen a lipo cell last 2000 cycles or even half that. I would like to see some data to back up that claim. Idk why they would put that on their site.
In my experience, the lipo pouch cells last about twice as long as a stinky fart. Maybe three times as long.
So the voltage I’m aiming for is gonna be 140v+ but I haven’t decided on what exactly yet. That’s one of my reasons for the Headway cells, easily make the pack bigger or smaller. I definitely don’t trust LiPo cells at all for the life of me, especially in a vehicle that could end my life if used wrong, its not worth the risk
Here’s a few more photos to see what I’m working with. The interior is in amazing condition with original radio and everything. Seats are all great and all fabrics are in excellent condition. The paint on the outside is looking really good too, with only a few scratches and a bunch of tiny rust spots. I plan on keeping the interior stock, with all required instrumentation being hooked up to the original gauges. I plan on adding air conditioning and maybe cruise control, depending on whether my chosen controller supports it.
The engine bay is a bit smaller than I was originally hoping for, so once I remove the old engine I can decide whether I can fit a 9in or 11in motor. As much extra room as possible in the engine bay will be dedicated to batteries, with the fuel tank space also being used. I don’t want to do one of those conversions where the back seat is just massive rectangle cells, keeping the look and functionality of the vehicle intact
I can dig it. For your reference though, these cells were used in buses and are totally fine for automotive use.
Oh awesome I didn’t know that. As a DIYer who treads the line between DIY and barely safe happy accident, I’d rather choose the safer option, even if it ends up being more expensive
They seem super stable for lipos, this dude blows one up and it’s pretty uneventful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nmDj0Ykn-c
If anyone has any idea about this please let me know!
Tried one more time to get it started today. From my zero mechanical experience I figured out that something in the carby was stopping fuel from coming through. After dropping multiple bits into the grass and ending up with a fuel leak from the carby, I have finally given up. I was going to try and palm off the engine to someone who might want it but haven’t gotten any interest so will be pulling the whole thing off. The car needs to be pushed into the place I wanna work on it (middle of the backyard isn’t ideal) and once that’s been done I’ll be begin the disassembly process. I will be live streaming that process and posting the link here so if you’re interested make sure to follow this topic
I would not advice on mixing cells in a battery. People frown on mixing same cell from different sources, what you were thinking about is just a very bad idea and likely to end up in a huge flame.
In best case you will reduce the life span of the batteries by quite a bit.
Do you have any sources for this being the case? Im aware that it’s usually not advised but perhaps with a larger pack and a more stable chemistry (LiFePo) that it might be possible. Keep in mind it’s also 2 separate parallel groups and not random cells all over the place
Ohh… separate parallel packs will have less of an issue but I doubt you,ll be able to match these packs very evenly on capacity and so there will be current flow from one pack to the other. And that’s not good for life of the batteries. The charging will have the same issue. It all depends on how evenly these packs are matched.
I don’t have any sources I just remember some of the research I did while building my battery.
Very nice project! Could you please provide the links to the places where you buy key components to your build? Things like, motor, pump for power steering, motor controller etc…
I am thinking of converting a VW Lupo (small EU car, slightly bigger than a smart) and your setup could really help in picking parts when/if I start with this project
This is a good budget motor that would suit a vehicle of this size: https://www.evworks.com.au/kostov-k9-hv-220v-9in-series-dc
For power steering I will be using a Holden Astra/Opel Astra/Zafira Electric Power Steering pump: you can get this on your country’s eBay site for cheap
This is the motor controller I plan on starting with: https://www.evworks.com.au/zeva-mc1000sp-mc1000sp-motor-controller they do have a lower power version of this for a bit cheaper, probably better suited to your build
Amazing, this will help a lot!
Any plans on what BMS or charging solution you’re going to use @kalebludlow?
Crazy project, this is some next level stuff, totally beyond me.
Out of curiosity, what major components do you need for such a conversion, except for motor, motor controller and battery? Can you just “drop in” the motor or does it get mechanically involved?
The original Carvon Evos were going to be 14S2P LiFePo, A123 26650. i still have the pack i made for them. It’s collecting dust. I should probably use it in a race board.
Don’t know anything about cars but will this help?
€ 377,82 | Super Power qs 5000W V4 72V100KPH 12*5.0inch width single shaft in-wheel hub motor Detachable design