So you have print outer wall before inner wall enabled?
Post your cura profile here.
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At the moment i use Prusa Slicer because currently there is no predefined Cura Prusa Mini Profil.
I also could try to make a Cura Profil for the Mini, reprint it and then post the Settings.
It’s not the “right” way to do it, but the way I fixed that problem in prusaslicer is to set the printer’s nozzle diameter slightly smaller than it actually is: For an 0.4mm nozzle, I have mine set to 0.35mm for nylon, and 0.38mm for PLA/PETG.
This causes the slicer to space all the walls ever so slightly closer together so you get good fusion without having to screw with the extrusion multiplier once you’e tweaked it for good dimensional accuracy.
You want to get your extrusion multiplier dialed in correctly first, if you haven’t already: Print a small test cube with one wall, zero infill, and no top or bottom. Set your extrusion width to something nice and round, like 0.5mm, and then measure the wall when it’s done. Adjust your extrusion multiplier/e-steps/whatever to get the part to match the slicer setting, and only then should you begin fucking with other stuff.
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Perfect Instructions. I will try this. Thanks!
It’s not. Honestly the glass bed was thicker and it helps keep all my springs tight because I had to lower the bed more. You may need to move the z axis stop up a tiny bit.
And I attached the glass bed using kapton tape and not clips to have the entire are for printing…
Has been like this for a year. To remove print I just use the chisel that came with it.
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Anyone got a recommendation for a magnetic flex bed? Pretty tired with excessive bed adhesion
That’s a good idea. I use binder clips but remove the metal parts
Increase z offset in cura (there is a plugin) I have mine set at 0.05mm.
Or
Place the chisel next to the print you want to remove. Make sure that the chisel is flat to the bed and tap with a hammer or something. Basically shearing removes the print cleanly.
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@mishrasubhransu I did increase the offset by .06 or .07 iirc. I even took scotchbrite and smoothed down my plate (helped a little bit). I tried the hammer thing a few times but ended up sliding the bed out of it’s clips and denting the face of the bed (I’ve always cut my hands a few times when the chisel slipped)
So far, most of my prints have been large surface area flat prints.
Kinda wanna avoid all of that altogether and just get a flexy bed so I can have the sweet satisfaction of popping off the prints without cutting my hands
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Go higher. There is no reason why it should stick so much if you just laying down filament from top instead of pressing down into the bed. It doesn’t make sense.
Dude tell me about it, there’s like very very small margin between the filament not even sticking to the bed cuz it’s too high and being permanently glued. I frequently adjust +/-1.0mm
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Try hairspray, in my experience it’s a great equalizer. For things that stick too much (PETG) it reduces adhesion slightly, and for slippery stuff (nylon) it helps. I use Aquanet Extra Super Hold unscented, in the big purple can.
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Lmao, my girlfriend has that in her cabinet. Been sitting for a couple years though so hopefully it still works. I guess girlfriends are useful. Thanks for the suggestion @MysticalDork I’ll check it out
+1 for hairspray. Brings old glass plates back to life and is dirt cheap.
Just make sure you cover your fans with your hand while spraying so they don’t get gunked up!
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Anybody got the gcode to keep the nozzle temp after the print is finished?
I got it with the bed, but not the nozzle.
Not until now. This is straight after installing my glass bed. Man removing this cube even from a cold plate was super hard. Me not likey.
edit: cube v2 with a profile from CHEP.
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Looks like you have some elephants foot on the bottom of the cube.
https://all3dp.com/2/elephant-s-foot-3d-printing-problem-easy-fixes/#:~:text=Elephant’s%20foot%20most%20often%20occurs,bed%20and%20adjust%20your%20nozzle.