I really don’t know shit about this stuff yet. But I wish I was in front of that hell machine right now dude…
I feel like I got a lemon lol
1 Like
I won’t let it whoop me though
1 Like
We goin again. More brim lines, previously the two circular areas were free standing from the rest and moved, lowered the temp a bit and turned the fan on 40% to try to keep the edges from curling. Increased brim flow to ensure it was locked together.
Still struggling with retractions even with direct drive though. I can’t get rid of these little towers where the nozzle wipes while moving, maybe I should have put on coasting.
That’s a 3d printer for ya
One tip I have that has helped remove a lot of problems is that the entire print relies on the first layer. I set my first layer speed to 7%, and it helped me a lot with adhesion and warping to increase the height and thickness of the first layer. After I did that my prints came out a lot better
1 Like
My first layer goes down at 10mms
What slicer do you use?
Cura.
1 Like
Prob my cleanest print to date
I am a bit worried how much structure the front parts are gonna hold lol the piece gets kinda large before it joins
1 Like
That is just something to keep in mind with 3d printing.
There is always going to be a compromise in the design to allow it to be successfully printed.
I never really felt that giant brims did much to help bed adhesion vs just a few laps.
2 Likes
Same here. I’ve only found an extra wide brim to help when printing really tall cylinder shaped objects.
2 Likes
The secret weapon for bed adhesion for me was PEI. Works well with PLA, ABS, and PETG.
I started with a 2mm sheet but eventually switched to a very thin layer on a steel sheet. It is held to the bed with magnets and can be bent to remove the parts.
Going again lol, those front two structures failed after 3 hours. My own fault, I didn’t really think about them being unsupported they were just floating on like 3mm of one strand of filament, I’m actually surprised it went as long as it did. So I bumped down the support angles. Up till then that the print looked fantastic.
The reason I went with the bigger brim is I had the front two structures get separated twice before. With the bigger brim connecting them to the brim of the rest of the print they stayed put.
1 Like
I keep a cheap 3d printing pen near my printers with my scrap filament stands to build supports if something fucks up in the middle of an important print. It works like 20% off the time 
2 Likes
Lol I tried to support it with a little piece of foam. Didn’t go. I also tried a dab of superglue at the base, dint dry fast enough I guess lol.
Here’s all that was holding the structure. It’s literally one strand it just got too wobbly
Maybe check the bed level. Also, PEI sheet.
Yah plead the fifth and PEI sheet flexible steel if you can. Bumping print temp for first layer helps it be more molten and goo into the surface at small sacrifice of quality for that layer I usually go 5-10C hotter on first layer, layer of masking tape also works well for the plastic to stick into something.
I’m pretty much an expert at bed leveling lol, I’ve got to the point where I measure the brim at various positions to make sure it’s .20 on all sides.