Filament storage/feeder work in progress. I’ll post links when this is finished, but Sterilite dry box gets you a lot of options on thingiverse.
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@Venom121212 Currently first print on the new applied build surface. Adheasion hasn’t caused a problem so far. First layer was super clean
I’m also going to swap the xt60 to a xt90 connector. Mine gets suuuuper hot.
According to my not 100% accurate laser scanner thing.
First print. I call this a success :
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Yeah i saw those posts back in the day but i’ve been printing for over a year know and so far nothing melted. I’ll just go the safe route just to be sure.
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Only happened to me when I cranked the heat up for petg printing.
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What were your temps at? I print PLA at 195c and TPU at 220c, both with 60c Bed.
I think I was around 240 at the time but could be wrong. It was a while back and I havent printed petg in ages.
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Literally printing my first time at 245 (I had been printing at 220) and this post was so specific to my situation that I literally had to run home real quick to feel my xt60 
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I replaced mine with XT90. The problem isn’t with the connector but the fact that they crimp the wire rather than having it soldered.
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99% chance it’s a shitty connection point of the wires to the connector, not the connector’s contacts itself. I’ve run across a couple of those where the wire was just spot-welded to the connector, with no solder at all.
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Regarding the build surface and adhesion in general pei coated flexible spring steel is my favorite in terms of things generally sticking well and popping off when bending the plate or a tiny bit of prying. Masking tape still helps but not usually necessary. For nylon PVA is the way to make it stick, you can dissolve it in water to get the part free but it can take a very long time and or some scraping to get it off.
Generally for me the issue is a need for better bed levelling or corrections on that and or bumping the first layer temp to make it a bit more oozy and get better first layer contact.
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Some pla (thinking shiney ‘silk’ or ‘pro’) have a little higher temp like 220 first layer 215 for the rest
Well color me surprised.
Solder joint still looks like ass, but it doesn’t look like the failure point.
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Damnit, I’m already in the process of swapping to xt90 and just saw that the power supply xt60 is crimped. The Mobo one is soldered and already swapped to xt90
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Yeah when I tore it apart, it looked like a bad crimp.
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I’ve been printing at 285 for this cf PC and I literally just checked my xt-60 to see if it was hot. Its not even warm and I’ve been on a 10 hour print. I wonder if they changed something because that shit scares me.
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Glad you go a first good print! I think you could still probably lower to bed to get a better smush but if it works for subsequent prints, I’d leave it 
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@xsynatic Yah regarding those connectors that off yellow faded looking plastic isn’t the “real thing” (pretty sure, hard to tell with lighting and all) have seen some of those and the plastic feels crappier that they put the bullets in things can get hot and melt through the crappy plastic and then have real problems.
Suggest taking those out if you don’t need an extra connector don’t put one if you need one use genuine connectors make sure they aren’t the crappy kind worth the extra $0.50 or whatever (realize these shipped with crap ones).
My buddy got some anet like thing too had the same crap looking XT-60 on there I replaced it right away when we got the machine. If you are running double voltage you should expect half current for same power delivered so about quarter the heat loss in components/connections with higher resistance (maybe crappily spread bullets or otherwise oxidized etc. etc. who knows)
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