That I’m not sure - I got back and it just had on my screen “E1 Thermal Runaway, Printed halted, Please reset” so I flipped power off and back on and it has been ok since then. I suspect it’s probably the thermister crapping out, so I bought a pack of a handful of new ones. I haven’t had the error again since, but I’ll probably replace it anyways just to be safe. I did clean up some of the wiring coming off my hot end with some zip ties, so I could have pinched it somehow and kinked/broke one of the wires a bit.
1 Like
Yes. Thermistor 
. I was struggling for the correct word. Sounds like you have the issue well in hand good sir. Carry on!
2 Likes
Hopefully, until I introduce another issue 
the struggle is always the best when it’s self-inflicted.
apologies for the spam but I hate PLA, this is a PETG household only. I was only using PLA because I wanted the least hassle possible for dialing in the new hotend, but it looks like the PLA (and maybe my conservative settings) were the hassle. PETG’s higher softening seems to have zero jams. I ran a 6 hour print at much higher speeds and 2-4x the flow rate and it was fine, came out beautifully on the first try. It’s a geometrically much simpler part because it’s just a big air duct adapter but still, 120mm tall where the other ones failed at 10 and 8~12mm3/s instead of 3~4 and it even had nicer surface finish
2 Likes
PETG also draws very little water compared to PLA, which makes it so muhc better.
1 Like
I’m determined to win in my struggle against PETG. I haven’t done a lot with it yet, but mostly because PLA is so easy (on my printer). I haven’t messed with PETG since getting some good advice for it, so I will have to try again soon
1 Like
The PLA in question was fresh out of a sealed bag, I haven’t tested it with a hygrometer or anything so maybe it was a bit wet but I had just assumed it was good
Also I didn’t know PLA takes on more than PETG, I thought it was the other way around but that neither of them was too bad. Glad to be back to my old PETG though
1 Like
Transparent PETG is also a gorgeous material, I’m stuck with white stuff that doesn’t look great at the moment but my next few spools are gonna be clear or drink bottle greens and reds
1 Like
stronger than any other kind. 
There is a good video on that topic by CNC kitchen, give me a sec.
2 Likes
Sometimes you just get a bad batch. I had one roll where the filament would just snap before the extruder motor, many times mid print but always after a print just finishes. The replacement one they sent had no issues though.
1 Like
I know I looove that video, it came out like a week after I ran out of my clear stuff! I know you don’t need clear to still apply those settings for the layer adhesion and strength advantages, but I’m not printing anything that needs huge strength at the moment so I’m only interested in the prettiness
3 Likes
PLA tends to misbehave when wet, PETG will still print but the polymers hydrolyze and you get reduced mechanical properties in the finished part.
Nylon is a foamy, steamy mess that sounds like rice crispies.
2 Likes
Anyone in Europe got suggestions for
- Sourses for silica dessicant in the 0.5-5kg range, not the little snack packs. Or if you’re not in Europe or your place doesn’t ship, just a reference for how much you pay per kg or lb
- Glass for the hotbed. If the answer is “absolutely only use carborundum print bed plates, other glass will kill you” that’s also good info
-
ebay: Silica Gel Trockenmittel orange Entfeuchter Indikator regenerierbar Silikagel | eBay
-
Why glass? Powdercoated magnetic metal plates are way better imo
1 Like
yeah PEI magnetic is the next actual purchase in the queue, but a smooth hard surface that can’t warp is tempting. Especially if I can find a cheapo pane of glass somewhere
Well… glass can warp too you know. And PEI is pretty smooth. Only thing that bothers me is that it also scratches easily.
2 Likes
What I can say is DIY regular window pane glass isn’t worth it. Edges are dangerously sharp, thermal shock can crack it, and you’d need some tools to cut it to size. It’s probably cheaper just to get an actual carborundum/pyrex glass bed than buy the tools necessary to cut and clean the edges. It certainly was for me when I tried (and failed).
3 Likes
Way back when i had an anet a8 before my prusa i utilized a window pane and some binder clips. Upgrading that bad boy was fun af and flashing marlin too. But PEI is just so much more reliable and how often are you looking at the one smooth surface of a print? That too the bottom. Nevertheless +1 to windows. Can get it cut to whatever size bed you have and its only ~10 bucks at ace hardware
This really cemented it. I’m generally fairly in favour of spending money (and/or time) on tools to do an ok job vs just paying for someone else to do a really good job at the factory, but there’s something about another nerd’s failed attempt that really does flash alarm bells
Also @Linesflag I was v unaware you could warp glass outside of getting it red hot and running a blowing setup
I really like glass, except the fact that PETG has a bad habit of taking chunks out of it as it cools.
I’ve switched to a G10 (FR4, fiberglass epoxy laminate, AKA PCB material) build surface, which I really like. Everything sticks nicely while hot and releases when cooled down. Nice and stiff, fairly cheap.
3 Likes