If PETG isn’t sufficient for your needs, then your next best option would probably be some form of nylon. It’s not as easy or printer-friendly as PETG though, as well as more expensive, so that’s why I didn’t mention it first.
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This is exactly what PETG is perfect for. These are not even structural - you could get away with PLA. The filament is not the issue. If your parts are not strong enough you need to dial your printer settings in better. Or your slicer settings. Or your 3D models.
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I had some issues getting my PETG parts to be strong at first. after alot of testing I found the nozzle temp to be the most important factor regarding strength. when I printed in 230c-240c I could rip the the parts apart by hand. when printing 250c-260c I needed a plier to break them.
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Do you mean 250-260? 150 feels low for any plastic filament really.
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Yeah typo. Fixed!
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thanks will give it a go
What do you guys use to fill in gaps in 3D prints? Everywhere else is OK but places where support material interfaces always look kinda bad and I would like to fill in the gaps. I usually use filler primer but I don’t think that’s gonna cut it in this instance. Also @poastoast your remote is dope so far, really like the form factor.
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uwu glad you’re enjoying it!
imma say it’s gonna be down to some tuning/bed leveling
what do your support settings look like? seems like they’re too far from the print on the z axis?
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Bed level is all good, the plane that is on the bed is basically completely flat. I need to do some more support interface tuning though, I haven’t messed with it all that much. I think it’s set at .2 at the moment. I tried .15 but supports were wayyy to hard to take off. Need to see if there is a way to adjust the extrusion width for supports maybe?
i have my z distance equal to the layer height for me
i also have my support roof asss uhhhhh croshatch? 64% density iirc and 2-3 layers thick
try that on a test print (i can send a quick file if you need!) see how she goes 
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If that face with the buttons was touching the bed, it’s definitely a bit too far from it or the flow is too low. How’s the back side look?
Inside looks good to me (Aside from when the left bottom post broke off because I used too long hardware):
Right now I’m more looking for post processing tips rather than printer tuning tips 
I’ll need to look at first layer flow I think, either that or my z offset.
@poastoast what model do you use for support tuning?
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I uhhhhh, kinda just went for it
i forgot what video I used but I kinda just looked it up on youtube and put in som settings and it just worked.
I was talking about the test print you were referring to earlier lol
oh! I would just mae a simple shape with a small overhang that’s quick to print for you if you need
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Ah gotcha, I thought you were talking about a specific tuning model that was used for that widely haha. Like a calibration cube or something of the sort. I can whip one up if that’s all it is. Thanks though!
no problem!
Sure thing
I don’t have a super nice answer but can maybe suggest what not to do? I’ve had prints that looked like that and tried to file/sandpaper them smooth and it made it quite a bit uglier in PETG.
I also had ones where a raft (I never had the issue with traditional support, only on rafts) was too close to the part and it looked quite different; it effectively has half-layers where some of a layer would peel off with the raft. Also responded terribly to filing, it ended up just loosening more of the layer and having it hang off in strands.
For home hack stuff to put in it maybe try some black gel nail polish, or any that would dry to a softer or more rubbery finish rather than hard and brittle. I have some super cheap stuff that I just threw on an old failed part to test the idea. Smoothed over pretty well?
Failing that you could grab some of this stuff because it seems thin enough to get into stuff, though I haven’t used this so it’s very much a guess
FWIW I think that looks more like significant under extrusion than support adhesion, but I know you’re not really looking for tuning
Honestly that supported area doesn’t look that terrible, I’ve definitely printed worse. I’d say fill in the gaps with epoxy or UV gel nail polish, or anything else that is thin and runny enough to get in there, and then harden up.
FDM prints always look pretty gross on supported surfaces unfortunately, and PETG is extra-bad because it adheres so strongly, you have to keep the spacing pretty far to be able to remove the supports later.