This should work perfect. Try to get the top layer leveled as much as possible and then sand to your desired finish.
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Ok after trying quite a few different settings here are my results:
From left to right settings changed were:
- Where I started from, rectilinear, 0.2 top spacing, 2 interface layers, interface pattern spacing 0.3, interface loops enabled?
- 0.15 top spacing, 3 interface layers, interface pattern spacing 0, interface loops disabled
- 0.1 top spacing, rest unchanged, looks good - hard to remove
- Tried ironing, didn’t turn out great, rest unchanged
- Switched to sawtooth interface, rest unchanged, too hard to pull off
- Sawtooth interface, 0.2 top spacing, rest unchanged
- Final: Back to rectilinear, 0.1 top spacing, 3 interface layers, 0.2 interface pattern spacing
While the final result isn’t perfect perfect it’s much better than the other ones. I changed back from solid interface on top and it was much easier to remove.
Final:
And final SuperSlicer settings:
Gonna work on bed levelling/z-offset/first layer extrusion now.
As far as the nail polish goes that worked out really well. Only took a couple coats and was surprisingly easy to sand:
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Great improvements!
Just curious, why did you decide to go with ABS for this?
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Wasn’t as much of a decision more of what was in my printer at the time haha.
Before this I was printing parts to eventually build a VORON 2.4 and that required ABS.
I have the setup and profiles tuned for ABS now so it works fine. Print speeds are also really fast with this tune (135 mm/s perimeters/infill, 2500 mm/s accel) and just I haven’t done a fast tune for other materials yet.
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Does anyone have a model for a flipsky mini 6.7 case? I could make one, but I’d rather be lazy if I can. Thingiverse doesn’t turn up anything for the 6.7 and IDK where else to look.
I have the mini 4.2 on my cad dump thread with almost identical in size according to flipskys site. the 6.7 is only 0.5mm thicker
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The ports have a different configuration. Also something like that would be helpful, but I mostly just want a model for a case. I can probably knock it out pretty quickly, but if there is already one available I’d just use that.
Edit: Actually maybe it’s just vertical vs horizontal USB.
Flip it over and send it! I prefer the smooth side actually, better adhesion, easier to clean, and glassy smooth first layers.
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Whoa never even thought of that, thanks for the tip! Gonna get to it now
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My bed has multiple chips in it, and a variety of stains from printing identical parts 20-30x each… I bought a new one when I got the first chip like you but got many more and decided I’ll swap it in once it’s an issue with adhesion or if cracks into pieces.
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Just put the parts somewhere else! You paid for the whole bed, not just the bit in the middle.
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So many things I didn’t think of 
thanks guys haha
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Just did a print in pla and it came out fine
I change to Petg and now get 2 issues
For some reason the prints won’t stick at all
I’m using borosilicate glass with no adhesive
I’ve raised and lowered the z offset but doesn’t help to make them stick
When I have the temperature at 240 the second one doesn’t happen at 250 it does
Damn now your printer getting faults 
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Have you check the nozzle and heating elements, my first time with petg the machine clogged up and I had to replace the nozzle/fan assembly. Also check and see if the nozzle is the right size for your slice.
Yep nozzle right size
I can replace the nozzle but it’s not very old
How can I check for a partial clog
I’m not too familiar with your particular machine, it looks like you might need to take the fan off. I would seek the manual or someone more qualified.
For me, the heating element literally was caked in petg. Maybe try a temp tower?
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ah ok
will attempt to look into how to check
never heard of this
will look into it
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The temp tower is helpful, sometimes different filament requires different temp, and sometimes a brand of filament just sucks. Good luck!
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