I’ve been using this brand for a while now. Easy to work with and have gotten good results.
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I have a Sidewinder and it’s been great to me so far. There’s a thread about it if you want to read, but like you said, it’s a higher price point.
I would purchase that over the cr-10 though if you’re looking for more build volume.
I was half looking at the ender 5 because it’s a little bigger and they’re like $180 on Banggood incl tax, but yeah the cr10 I couldn’t be bothered with
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Late night, low brow, 3d print shenans here.
Did I happen upon a simple shroud print trying to actively fail before my very eyes?
And then did I rummage through the experimental print drawer for strips of like material, transmogrifying into a human additive prototipo, frantically adding semi molten PLA fail chunks and Purple glue drank via heated spatula?
Then, while trying to salvage the late hour, (doomed bc support travel is too fast, and also, that region of build surface is colloquially called, “the Bermuda Quadrilateral”), did I consider a physical confrontation between a runaway digital FDM gantry (that does not give an F about your support structures) and an analog, FDM imposter?
Yes. And yes, I added material by hand and didn’t pause the print. things are going to work out.
Someone told me here that supports are for pussies. I envy your double digit overhangs and beds leveled by 3 points of adjust vs the 4th dimension Creality works in. Gonna add a second 4010 (4020?) work cooling fan, and later, step down to 3d points of bed leveling.
In conclusion, this boostedboard is a great entry board, now how do I DIY a printer from scratch? (Jk, I know: https://bfy.tw/RNmQ)
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I just ran across this video. Really neat design.
I’m not that interested in portability, but the design also allows for a very rigid design with minimal size and weight.
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Is “SPLA” still a bit warp resistant?
It’s pla/petg mix, but my experience with large prints on petg leads to extreme warping.
I heard petg warping on large prints can even crack the glass beds so that’s why I used tape in the picture. (It’s a petg house for my pet rats with massive warp that worked out in the end, but will not work for critical parts)
Im just looking for a filament that has slightly better temperature resistance than pla, but that I can still trust to print 300mm+ in length/width while not destroying or mega-warping my prints. Nylon and petg have not filled this void yet. I know pla can do what I need, but black pla in the sun doesn’t seem like it will hold up under ratchet straps during the summer.
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Have you tried PLA +? Alternatively if warping is the biggest issue composite materials should help like CF petg or CF nylon. Also I recommend an enclosure for big prints like that. On my ender 5 plus I built this chamber with a heater inside where I can sustain 70°C.
(It was still unfinished there, but it’s definitely not super pretty. I used materials I had layering around. Zero material bought)
You could always post-process (anneal) the printed PLA parts. After annealing, PLA ends up being far more heat-resistant than PETG or even nylon.
Google didn’t help me and kept turning up different problems: My ender 3 bed keeps needing to be re-levelled after every print. I’m using the included BuildTak surface that’s clipped down to the bed, and removing it to flex the print off afterwards (I presume this is part of the problem?) and whenever I go to start a new print the nozzle is either digging hard into the surface and not extruding anything, or doing that on half the surface. I think once it has been suspended above the bed, but most of the time the bed seems to rise a little. Should I be using some adhesive on the leveling screws or changing out the springs or just never removing the buildtak?
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i never removed the Buildtak to remove prints for the exact reason of possibly messing with the leveling.
after a long time i bought a glass bed and never used the buildtak again. I either just use my fingers to “snap” it off or use the scraper to remove it. Caution: you can easily damage the buildtak if you slam the corner of the scraper into it.
you can upgrade the springs and or stabilize the screws with a nyloc nut for example. THe only thing i added were spring washers/cups because the screws were able to tilt and not stand up straight.
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grand thanks I’ll try just leaving the plate in place, I’ve been a bit cautious of using the scraper because I always feel like I’m damaging it (realistically I am a little) but I’ll get some practice and then see how I feel about glass if it gets too annoying
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ironically the majority said that the adhesion on glass beds is way better. For me it was worse lol. I now use a tiny spray of the cheapo 90 cent hair spray for adhesion + sometimes a brim to prevent warping.
You could also put a dab of loctite on the tension adjuster
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Are you letting the bed come up to temperature? A glass bed has a much higher thermal mass compared to the metal ones, and thus takes a while to preheat even after the bed sensor reaches temp. I usually give mine a couple minutes extra to saturate and stabilize the glass temperature before starting a print, and I haven’t run into any warping issues yet aside from thin sharp corners (although that feels more like a nozzle problem).
I recommend adjusting the z axis stop switch (micro switch on left front of machine) AFTER setting the springs about 3/4 of the way tight. They need some resistance or they’ll wiggle loose over time. This can take some trial and error but generally keeps the bed tighter over time.
The stiffer springs are nice at keeping beds in one place as well.
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I did actually try this already, I think I aimed for 50% so I had tension on the springs but still had a decent amount of room to travel in either direction. I initially set the Z switch to whatever lined up with the build surface, realised I hadn’t levelled it, swore at it through the process of levelling, Z adjustment, re-levelling, and then eventually realised the screws were just walking all over the place and went back to swearing before I landed where I am now
Edit: I’m actually quite a ways towards the bottom now somehow, will try tightening it most of the way up when the current print is finished thanks
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Extremely noob question: I’ve found some models for wheel pulleys here and on other sites, but I can’t find suggestions on what filaments are strong enough and/or how to test them without installing on a board? I have basically no 3DP experience so I’m not going to put something that could kill me into use until I know more anyway, but any info is appreciated.
I have an ender 3 and about 1kg each of PLA and PETG, as well as TPU but I don’t think I’ll be doing a pulley in that 
PETG has worked fine for me so far.
Bear in mind though that 3D printed pulleys have a higher chance of failure so avoid using them in very high powered boards.
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Thanks I think I’ll give that a go once I’ve looked into anything weird I need to prepare for PETG vs PLA, and make sure I’m not gonna kill them by having two spools out in the open or anything
You folks need to try Polymaker’s Polymax Impact PLA. It’s everything you like about PLA, but better.
Between that and their PolyMide CoPA, I don’t need anything else for parts.
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The ideal material for pulleys and gears would be taulman nylon. Either 910 or 645.
Then I would suggest composite materials for pulleys. You want high tensile strength. PETG can work. Carbon PETG would be better. ASA would probably be a good contender too.
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