Ahh yeah, I didnât notice that
I love me a good fea simulation, but as mentioned they are the epitome of garbage in, garbage out.
A couple thoughts -
What material did you set for the hub? and how accurate are the material properties to the 3D printed specs (unless you made a custom FDM material in Fusion)?
Generally, I imagine a static downward force is your safest load case. What youâre after is how likely this design is to fail in the extreme corner cases. To accomplish that, Iâd start with a load case with maximum realistic corning forces - this would probably look like a force colinear to the hanger axle, with the lowest pt of the hub pinned to a ground plane. Youâd want to run one load case with the force directed towards the truck, and one case with the force in the opposite direction towards the nut. You may have to model the tire as a solid object in order to get reasonable results from this. Or you could try directly applying a moment to the bearing seat as a shortcut.
Other extreme scenarios might be landing from a jump or a collision into a curb. So figure out the likely downward impact force from a ~200lb rider, off a 6ft jump. Or the same rider running the hub into an obstacle at 30mph.
You may as well model a dummy bearing and an axle in order to increase the accuracy of your contact areas.
These are still essentially spoke analysis, since your tire is trying to transfer the force to the truck via the spokes.
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At the end of the day practical testing is the only thing that will work well for this. There are too many variables that arenât easy to simulate
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Eh, I disagree. A symmetric plastic hub on a steel axle only has so many loading scenarios. The big question mark is manufacturing technique. But ignoring that for the moment, you could get some really decent ballpark results by thinking through maximum forces in your x,y,z axis and moments about those.
The equivalent time for empirical testing of prototypes is so large itâs realistically out of the question for a hobby project. Iâm sure wheel manufacturers of all stripes do a battery of fea before they ever have the first prototype made.
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Yeah well you can get ballpark but unless you have an industry level 3d printer I donât know how well it will translate.
Anyway, FEA is still cool, I agree with your comments - although I have the feeling these designs will all be way over rated, except for the very difficult to predict cases, like jumping
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Agreed, but weâre talking fea on design not manufacturing technique.
You could make a similar argument that F360 is only ballpark to begin with compared to something like Ansys, but that doesnât mean itâs not a useful indicator regardless.
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pic has bearing red seems to indicate the screw came out and marred plate.
PET, as this was the closest in Fusionâs database. In the y direction they should be really close, as this aligns with the print layers. PETG is a bit more flexible.
I wouldnât even know how to or where to get that data from, I just discovered that I can do sims in Fusion. 
Yesterdayâs sims werenât trying to accomplish a full poc, I was just showing @ZachTetra that my spoke design is able to carry a multitude of the expected load, as he expressed doubts regarding that. If the spoke can withstand a 1000N load with minimal deflection, they are good to go. Remember, I drive my designs around myself, and Iâm not nice to them. Some curb jumping and offroad is part of the standard evaluation.
Your input is very valuable though, when I have the time I will do a full sim just for the fun of it. In general, my designs have such high safety factors in all directions, itâs very unlikely that Iâd get results thatâll force me to redesign something.
Yes they are, I have safety factors built in in the excess of 15, simply because people are going to print these at home.
Those are some very expensive licenses.
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Is this actually a bead-lock design with flanges inside and outside of the tire bead with bolt clamping on the outside or simply removable outer flanges held with bolts?
Pretty sure theyâre just aesthetic?
One of my hubs died, a PETG one. Cracked right through haha
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Were you riding?
Yeah haha I got a flat and the hub broke, idk which came first. Had the bkb tires on it, standard width hub
Only the front outer flange is removable and is held in with bolts, the rest is aesthetics. 
Also no bead lock, as these are intended for tubed tires.
Oh thatâs not good, do you have any more info? Usually a cracked hub wouldnât cause a flat. Did you drive on the hub without tire pressure, after the flat already happened?
Impossible to say, but itâs possible. I can take some pics of it later.
Also, the hubs got up to like 55c while riding
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Thatâs pretty toasty, but will happen if printed in black. PETG should be okay with those temps though.
Luckily itâs pretty easy to replace a broken hub. 
I still gotta get around to printing my Y-types. Still working on dialing in PETG on my printer and then Iâll have a go at it.
Just briefly skimmed this thread. @Tanuki your designs are very cool, that said, I canât not share my quick thoughts.
I apologize in advance, but not reallyâŚ
DIY 3DP hubs, printed on hobby printers, for continuous use, is one of the most dangerous things Iâve heard of on this forum. I understand that the designs look great in models, but they look like shit when printed from said hobby printers. I would steer clear of this. Good for prototypes at this level and thatâs all.
Cheers!
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